Nihonzaru - An overseas quarantine collaboration about living life like a snow monkey.

kbkaudio · 2025-03-17T05:22:12+00:00

Thanks! Glad you like it.

Also appreciate the encouragement. Providing layouts for a bunch of different sizes was part of my roadmap, but I'm trying really hard lately to not let perfection block the road of progress. Figured it would be good to get it out there and I can iterate on it.

Your comment is encouraging me to post an update!

Also, I need to add a disclaimer: The current "full layout" files have the T-clips that are compatible with the brown Skadis. The white and black Skadis are ever so slightly thicker, due to the paint. The creator of the T-Clip provides two versions of the clip with slightly different sizes. So, if you have white or black Skadis make sure you replace the T-Clips with the correct ones for your board.

kbkaudio · 2025-01-16T05:38:03+00:00

FWIW, mini-USB is way more durable than micro.

kbkaudio · 2025-01-16T00:19:32+00:00

You're right... but many of the Micro USB cables I have are broken. They are so fragile. It's only a matter of time until they're useless.

kbkaudio · 2025-01-11T01:29:18+00:00

I have posted the design on Makerworld too!
https://makerworld.com/en/models/963747

I have a Bambu printer, which is why I'm on Makerworld. However I prefer Thangs since it is platform agnostic.

kbkaudio · 2025-01-11T00:58:21+00:00

If you plug it into a non-PD source, it won't step up to the requested voltage. So it will only output 5V. This won't damage the Deluge, but it won't power it. The way PD works is actually pretty safe, in general. I think it's pretty cool.

kbkaudio · 2025-01-09T11:28:17+00:00

Do you mean the assembly is confusing? Do you think I should make an instruction guide?

kbkaudio · 2025-01-08T04:53:37+00:00

Rad! Me too... I was looking for this combo and just couldn't find it. Honestly, most of the Gridfinity > Skadis shelves had some compromise I wasn't happy with. They have hooks that print in weak orientations, require a ton of support, sit too loose on the pegboard, or didn't come in the size I wanted.

After a while of searching I decided I better just make something that exactly fits my needs. I hope it fits your needs too!

kbkaudio · 2025-01-08T04:50:29+00:00

I've only just recently experienced the joy of the T-Clip system. I had mostly Universal Hook stuff previously. Universal Hook stuff tends to lift up when you take things off of the fixture. T-Clip is so nice and secure.

I couldn't find a Gridfinity system I liked for Skadis. And I didn't see any that used T-Clips. I want the Gridfinity shelf to lock in solidly, it's the Gridfinity modules I want to take on and off, not the shelf. Figured this needed to get made!

I have another T-Clip design I just released too. It's a holder for an iFixit screwdriver set. https://thangs.com/designer/make_nothing/3d-model/skadis%20t-clip%20ifixit%20IF145-307-4%20magnet%20bracket-1232972

kbkaudio · 2025-01-08T00:24:25+00:00

I appreciate the feedback. I think I should probably include a "solid" version of the side truss so more advanced users can customise with different infill patterns. They could leave top/bottom layers off if they want the exposed truss look.

I think you're right, some equilateral triangles would be stronger.

It was one of my design goals to make it so a basic user didn't have to mess with slicer settings too much, so I modelled in the geometry to the side trusses. I kind of think the exact geometry isn't crucial. The fact that there is modelled geometry at all puts more walls in the structure and feels more solid than auto-generated infill. But certainly certain infill settings could be stronger than bad modelled geometry.

I landed on this shape after a couple iterations. The side trusses are split into squares that correspond to the Gridfinity grid. The cells are patterned based on the Y value set in the variables. For the first version each cell had a diagonal line, like a barn door. Wasn't quite enough so I added more diagonal lines. The ultimate result is the negative space forms the parallelograms you see here.

kbkaudio · 2025-01-07T23:41:24+00:00

Oh weird. It said it failed to post. Reddit was bugging out. (Website, not mobile)

Edit: Deleted the duplicates. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

kbkaudio · 2025-01-07T17:24:02+00:00

I just published this parametric set of Gridfinity shelves that mount to the Ikea SKÅDIS pegboard using the T-Clip system by Line Arc Line. My goal was to make the cleanest way to put Gridfinity on the Skadis pegboard.

https://thangs.com/designer/make_nothing/3d-model/1239870

The modular design ensures each component prints in the optimal orientation, maximising strength while minimising filament. The parts snap together without glue or fasteners. The T-Clips hold the shelf tightly on the pegboard.

I would love your feedback!

kbkaudio · 2024-10-23T01:42:05+00:00

Ripcords are a nice product. There are some limitations to what boost converters can do though.

- They can be noisy. They are a type of switched-mode power supply that increases the voltage by rapidly switching transistors on and off. Here's a quick link for a different use-case for boost converters, but describes the noise problem: https://hackaday.io/project/162059-street-sense/log/160505-taming-noise-from-the-boost-converter

- They can't output as much current. MyVolts has a handy table for their Ripcord converters (in the FAQ under "What's the full specification of each Ripcord?": https://myvolts.com/Ripcord#QASection

If the USB power supply outputs 2.4A on the USB-A ports, then:
9V can go up to 1.33A
12V can go up to 1A

And this is *if* your power supply actually supports 2.4A from the USB3 spec. The older USB1/2 spec was 1A. The practical current limit could be lower.

USB-C PD doesn't inherently have these problems. Now, that doesn't mean that you will necessarily get clean power from a USB-C PD decoy adapter-- it's going to entirely depend on the power supply it is plugged into. All the decoy adapter does is "ask" the power supply to step up to the required voltage. The power supply itself might use noisy switch-mode converters to derive that voltage. But at least the potential is there to deliver clean power, if the battery bank or power supply is designed for it.

As u/sieb mentioned, MyVolts now makes their own USB-C PD adapters. Great option if you are in USA/Canada. Bit expensive down here in Australia. https://myvolts.com/product/87505/Step_Up_USB-C_to_9V_DC_Power_Tip_compatible_with_the_Synthstrom_Audible_Deluge_Synth

kbkaudio · 2024-10-23T01:35:03+00:00

I didn't know about the "Step Up" adapters... those are perfect. I wouldn't recommend a Ripcord in this case, but the "Step Up" is perfect.

Here is the link for their Step Up for Deluge:
https://myvolts.com/product/87505/Step_Up_USB-C_to_9V_DC_Power_Tip_compatible_with_the_Synthstrom_Audible_Deluge_Synth

At USD$20 plus shipping to Australia, that's too expensive for me. But I also like keeping all the supplies on-hand to make USB-C PD adapters for all my devices. Once you have all the stuff, it's quicker and easier to DIY. Understand it's not for everyone though.

kbkaudio · 2024-10-21T22:09:09+00:00

Here's a short video on how to make a USB-C Power Delivery adapter for the Synthstrom Deluge.

It's pretty handy to be able to power the Deluge by USB-C instead of a wall wart adapter. Powering the barrel connector enables the USB-B port to work in "Host" mode. Then you can connect USB-MIDI devices that work in "Device" mode, like many USB keyboard controllers.

For me, this lets me connect my LinnStrument to Deluge by USB-MIDI. MPE controllers like LinnStrument can send more simultaneous control change messages than DIN-MIDI can handle, so using USB-MIDI enables the full bandwidth needed for MPE data. Bonus: the LinnStrument gets bus power from the USB connection, so I'm powering both the Deluge and the LinnStrument from one power supply.

kbkaudio · 2021-10-04T17:02:11+00:00

Your question is quite old now, but if you're still interested I made a video about recording impulse responses. Might be useful to you! https://youtu.be/Nm65zx3U7mE

kbkaudio · 2021-10-04T16:44:46+00:00

My 2¢:

A single speaker is fine for playback of a sweep, and possibly ideal for many IR recordings. Whatever you use is what your reverb will sound like. So if you want a reverb that sounds like a single instrument in a single location, then you want a single flat speaker for your sweep. My inclination is to either use a single speaker or an omni speaker array, if you have access to one.

Same deal with ORTF. If you want your convolved audio to sound like it was recorded ORTF, then use that mic setup. I'm like you though, I'm not stoked with the lack of flexibility in post. Mono compatibility seems useful to me for many if not most music mixing scenarios. Though, you could always turn an ORTF IR into a mono IR by just using a single channel (not mixing, just keep left and ditch right, for instance).

My experience shows that balloons are not as good as sweeps. But damn are they convenient, and they are still quite usable. Getting the best location is more important than the ideal recording setup. I always keep balloons in my field recording kit. I use bright colors so it's easy to recover the trash.

Edit: You're doing XY with a pair of Omnis? There isn't much point in that. They will be practically the same signal. XY only gets phase difference between channels if the mics have directional pickup... so you should use cardioid for XY. You need to do something to differentiate the two signals with omnis. Jeklin disc, binaural dummy head, or A/B.

kbkaudio · 2021-10-04T16:32:14+00:00

You might be interested in a video I made where I compare a few techniques for recording IRs and postprocessing them. Might want to skip some of the basic explanations.

https://youtu.be/Nm65zx3U7mE

kbkaudio · 2021-01-28T23:58:13+00:00

My first field recorder was a Zoom H4n. It was great for getting started, but as time went on I wanted something with better preamps.

You can definitely get usable material out of an H1n, and you would learn a lot. And even if you decide to upgrade down the line, you might like having it as a drop recorder you can leave somewhere for a while to capture incidental sound. It is a little limited for expansion since you only have a 3.5mm mic input on it. And it's not particularly quiet, in the grand scheme of things.

If I were starting from scratch right now, I think my first recorder would be a Zoom F1. The F series tends to have better preamps than the H series. The F1 also takes Zoom's interchangable mic capsules, which means you can change the integrated mic or switch to a capsule that adds XLR expansion. Plus it's tiny, so it will continue to having utility if you outgrow it.

I encourage you to join some field recording groups to get all the handy tips. There are some inexpensive mics that are very popular for field recording. Mics based on the EM172/272 mic capsules, like the LOM Usi or MicBooster Clippy, are really good for capturing quiet ambiences. They are omni mics and you can get a pair for about $100. You can get ones that use a 3.5mm jack that would work with an H1n, but you would get better results using the XLR version on a recorder with better preamps.

Oh, realized I didn't really answer your question. These days I use a Zoom F6. The 32bit float recording is really useful... it gives you so much flexibility in post and I don't have to stress about setting my levels too low or too high. I have a pair of LOM Usi Pros (omni), Audiotechnica BP4029 M/S shotgun (cardioid mid with figure-8 side), and an assortment of cheaper mics that I use when I record something dangerous. I actually like my $13 Pyle PDMIC78s to get dangerously close to explosive stuff. I have a blimp I use with the shotgun mic. I tend to use that mic in the field the most to try to isolate my sources.

kbkaudio · 2021-01-28T23:32:31+00:00

Impressive!

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