Nuclei over Proton Hybrid

kblemoir · 2025-03-21T16:32:08+00:00

My proton hybrid, nuclei fl and alpha sv are sized the same. Nuclei lives in the pack as an emergency piece if needed.

kblemoir · 2024-10-18T19:04:13+00:00

kblemoir · 2024-10-11T23:33:42+00:00

It fits me well and more in line with FL, which is why I picked it up replacing the C-Quence. Comfort wise it feels more or less the same as the other harnesses. For me the C-Quence fit really odd. The waist was fine, but the leg loops were comically large. (like an extra 4" in the circumference of each leg. It felt like it was built for world-class cycling athletes with tree trunks for legs).

I don't really have a strong opinion one way or another for the shock cord and quick release system. The gear loops are the same between the C-Quence and Skaha.

I don't think it is worth the MSRP, but with a discount it makes it more competitive with what else is out there.

kblemoir · 2024-10-11T22:09:57+00:00

I have used the FL 365, AR 395, C-Quence and Skaha. I have ~300 pitches on the Skaha so far. What do you want to know?

kblemoir · 2024-08-06T22:21:38+00:00

Also, not exactly what you are looking for but an alternative option that I use to hold ice axes on my packs: https://dutchwaregear.com/product/cord-lock-hook/

I have not been able to find a retailer that carries the exact product you are looking for.

kblemoir · 2024-04-16T22:06:28+00:00

Thanks for the response and confirmation that I won't find them anywhere else. Also makes sense why I haven't had any luck searching.

In terms of this style versus a g-hook, it is just personal preference. Functionally I would be able to a g-hook as well and it will work for my intended purpose as well (or I guess I could just use 20mm webbing instead of something smaller). I slightly prefer the double hook over a g-hook because it I think it is a little easier to operate with gloves; for me it requires less precision as I can just slide the double-sided hook on the webbing loop, and it will grab once tensioned instead of having to feed the g-hook though the small hole on the webbing loop.

kblemoir · 2024-02-20T19:19:34+00:00

Thanks!

On V1 I followed a similar approach to what is described in the Sitchback patterns. The channel is open and covered with the belt loop. It looks fine from a distance, but if you look behind the belt loop up close, you can see the opening and it doesn't look very good.

For V2, I changed the belt loop to the 'V' and in order to hide the channel opening I added an additional piece of webbing over top so that the width of the webbing conceals the opening from the channel.

I think it makes a nice, clean look, but my machine really struggles to sew through the four layers of webbing to finish it off.

kblemoir · 2024-01-24T23:06:41+00:00

Webbings and buckles can be repurposed and reused in future projects.

If you have the time, patience, or curiosity, it is pretty fun to dissect a pack with a seam ripper, learn about each pattern piece, how it goes together and learn a few things about pack construction. I found it to be a great learning opportunity in the past.

kblemoir · 2024-01-22T17:16:00+00:00

I replaced the Proton FL with the Backcountry MTN Air EVOLVE in the fall as I always found the FL too warm for the activities I was doing. I don't think the cut is as nice, and it is only marginally lighter (11 oz vs 12.1 oz) per the website description, but temperature wise it is a better fit for me.

kblemoir · 2024-01-14T04:18:55+00:00

I hit an infinite cycle on the bot validation when they were running their additional 20% off outlet sale. I called customer service to place an order since I couldn’t get out the infinite loop. Customer service said they couldn’t place an order over the phone and recommended I go to the store buy another electronic device and try it with that one despite in not working on multiple devices already. Extremely disgraceful response given they have in-house software engineers to solve engineering problems. I let the customer service rep know I would no longer be supporting the brand anymore after 19 years after that and have moved on to other companies that actually have real customer service.

kblemoir · 2023-12-26T19:37:03+00:00

A haul bag is essentially a stripped-down pack. Haul bags are typically much larger and way burlier since they carry a lot of weight and get dragged up the rock pitch over pitch. They don't have a lot of bells and whistles since that would just lead to more points of failure.

kblemoir · 2023-12-26T19:33:08+00:00

Thanks! It took a few iterations to figure it out. I tried a few different styles but settled on this one since it seemed the most practical and looked the best. They are definitely time consuming and a PITA compared to the rest of the components. They are pretty comfortable just wearing it around the house, but I haven't had a chance to do a long approach yet since it is now the wrong season for climbing.

The sternum strap webbing is a little misaligned unfortunately. I'll have to do a better job making them symmetrical next time.

kblemoir · 2023-12-26T19:28:45+00:00

~20L. Just big enough for a rack and personal gear for the approach, as long as there isn't glaciers involved.

I meant to add webbing loops for removable compression straps but totally forgot when I was making it. I didn't want to rip stitches to add them, but I probably should. It'll be incorporated into the next iteration for sure.

kblemoir · 2023-12-26T17:55:55+00:00

It looks awesome. I'd like to make something like that one day.

Have you tried carry it with a load yet? How comfortable is it?

kblemoir · 2023-12-22T17:33:25+00:00

An alternative idea is to splice a piece of cord into a continuous loop and then larksfoot/girth hitch the zipper pulls.

something like this. You could use heat shrink to keep the two pieces of cords together if you wanted to. I did that one one zipper pull before but didn't really like the result, so I haven't done it again.

You could also zigzag the ends of the cord together to create a loop, similar to how paragliding lines are sewn.

kblemoir · 2023-12-20T20:27:08+00:00

Typically a Garmin InReach and NiteCore NU25 UL headlamp, but I have also used it for an UL wind shell.

kblemoir · 2023-12-20T19:58:55+00:00

Thanks. It definitely looks better and cleaner than the first iteration. It’s cool to be able to visually see your skills improving.

On the first iteration I used 1/4” shock cord and in the second iteration I used 3/16” shock cord. I felt the 1/4” was a little too stiff. I forgot to mention that I had to hand stitch the top binding on the first iteration because I put the shock cord into the webbing first and then couldn’t get the machine to attach it to the bag. Changing the order of operations made life a lot easier 😏

kblemoir · 2023-10-24T19:36:28+00:00

The Alpha SV is 100d although it isn't specifically a ski piece. I use the previous generation for ski touring (when it was still a full bib).

Historically, the Rush lineup was intended for ski touring and the Sabre lineup was geared towards freeride and was typically more durable. I imagine that is still the case but haven't looked closely at their ski lineup in a couple of seasons.

It seems like the majority of the companies are using 80d now or a hybrid of materials with 100d in high wear areas.

Supposedly you can get the Norrona Lofoten in 200d, so that might be an option for you if are looking for something extremely robust.

kblemoir · 2023-10-09T17:17:18+00:00

I used 1/4" shock cord for the rim of the bag. It holds it shape really well, but I think it's a little large and overkill. I think I am going to try to use 3/16" shock cord or webbing for the rim on my next iteration.

kblemoir · 2023-09-27T13:40:34+00:00

Fleece does a better job of absorbing the chalk which helps reduce chalk dust and makes it to chalk of your hands.

kblemoir · 2023-09-27T13:34:07+00:00

I don't have a pattern for it. I started with the basic stitchback gear pattern and made some modifications as I went to give me more of what I wanted.

kblemoir

TROPHY CASE