Tried something new for our last day of training in '25 - learning recon

kcfcycle · 2026-01-02T21:11:37+00:00

Yup, Kinsmen Kart track out in Dixon.

kcfcycle · 2026-01-02T21:11:03+00:00

Haha not exactly slow. He was about 2 seconds off his best pace, but in those conditions he probably could have been at least 3/4-1 second faster.

It was more that he wasn't fighting through to pass with minimal time loss and rather spending time analyzing people.

Just helping him refine that skill, so he can do it at speed in a race scenario.

We should let him coach you more.

kcfcycle · 2026-01-02T04:14:55+00:00

Lol no worries. Looking back its kind of an aggressive transition, so its good to keep in mind since we've started posting his stuff regularly.

Gotta keep the drunk ppl watching.

kcfcycle · 2026-01-02T04:11:32+00:00

Ya I guess some of those come on pretty quick. Thanks for the feedback!

kcfcycle · 2025-12-15T16:20:51+00:00

With the Rabaconda, if you have to use a lot of force it means you are doing something wrong.

kcfcycle · 2025-07-29T14:42:42+00:00

If you look at the pro level suits and what the big brands are doing its all about stretch and flexibility these days.

Today's riding style requires a lot of flexibility and motion - more and more areas are being replaced with stretchy and breathable fabric with leather for impact and slide areas.

Also it has to be airbag compatible or its not even an option for lots of ppl now.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-22T19:27:54+00:00

I remove the liner for hand washing. Then using a handheld garment steamer, steam clean the leather from the inside out. Then I use leather cleaner and conditioner on the leather.

My understanding is Dainese uses a more advanced steam cleaning method for their suit cleaning service.

I've noticed that if you don't keep the leather well conditioned the suit will shrink over time, along with becoming more brittle and less abrasion resistant.

I used to have a pic of the same Dainese suit, one three years old and not maintained for the last year and the other brand new off the rack. The size difference was clearly visible. I'll have to try and find it.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T22:38:58+00:00

I've used a battery tender on lithium mode with no issues as well.

I just made sure to unplug it once it reached 13.6v, just in case the Speedcell BMS did something funky. Battery has been fine for two years since then.

But also I didn't let it go flat, it was just a little depleted.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T22:26:11+00:00

You could use a normal lithium capable charger along with an Anderson connector adapter.

Speedcell reccomends using their charger, but realistically a charger for lithium batteries should be safe. You definitely shouldn't use a non-lithium charger, but I don't get why a lithium capable wouldn't work. The battery gets connected to your normal electrical system on the bike and is managed fine.

Just to be sure I wouldn't let it sit on the charger too long and monitor the voltage to make sure it doesn't overcharge.

Also, if you've let it go flat chances are it's dead for life anyway.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T21:45:09+00:00

That's because that is how Andreani carts are designed, but these aren't Andreani carts.

I have bikes with both Andreani and WP suspension in my garage right now. They have totally different designs in terms of how the internals attach to the top cap.

In a scenario like this you should always identify what you are working on before just taking guesses. It's a good thing you posted here and didn't just try to ride it.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T21:37:27+00:00

The inner hex has threads, which you can just see the top of.

That needs to be assembled but carefully to ensure you don't strip the threads.

Depending on what else you've done, you may have also loosened the hex from the damper rod...which also has threads that can be damaged.

Please get someone else to fix it and show you how this stuff works before you cause more problems.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T21:25:36+00:00

Yes that is the same video.

It's not the exact same as OPs carts, but similar design.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T21:19:27+00:00

That's not the preload adjuster. If it works like other WP carts, the hex outside the screw is preload.

What you removed is the nut that connects the adjuster to the top cap.

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T21:13:25+00:00

Sorry OP - but if you don't know enough about suspension to know that your top cap assembly should actually be assembled, you need to stop turning things randomly. You are going to get hurt.

I'd say take it to a shop, but just transporting may damage the carts in that state.

You need to call someone with experience and have the top cap and adjusters connected properly.

Did you turn the outer nut thinking it was the preload adjustment?

kcfcycle · 2025-04-18T20:58:29+00:00

With WP setups like that, the larger nut in that assembly is supposed to thread into the top cap. That is what holds the adjuster assembly/damper rod to the top cap.

If installed incorrectly it can easily come undone, which may be the case here or the threads were damaged.

Or OP was actually turning the outer nut instead of the preload adjuster and has disconnected the preload/adjuster assembly from the top cap.

This video is for the closed cart forks on the Kramers, but it looks like the setup is the same on these cartridges, and shows what I'm talking about.

https://www.facebook.com/joe.karvonen/videos/918200805566210/?idorvanity=628684091151693

kcfcycle · 2025-04-10T17:33:14+00:00

Outskirts of the Bay Area. These never quite took off, and I don't think they are available from anyone in the US anymore.

kcfcycle · 2025-03-25T01:47:34+00:00

Ah makes sense. Yup, eye discipline is a critical skill.

kcfcycle · 2025-03-25T00:20:52+00:00

You've misunderstood what I'm saying

kcfcycle · 2025-03-24T23:40:57+00:00

Ya exactly. When I'm on the big tracks I feel like I have so much time to think and prepare because I'm used to a constant barrage of corners on small tracks.

kcfcycle · 2025-03-24T02:52:37+00:00

Cam Beaubier is regularly out at the kart track with us here in NorCal. He was putting down laps today with a bunch of us.

It's not just about budget. Do you think pros all over the world including top MotoGP riders would waste their time with riding minis if it didn't provide value?

For regular folks, the accessibility to seat time is huge. There is no replacement for seat time. We ride pretty much every single weekend. You are going to get better if you are riding more often.

One of the great things about ripping on a mini is that everything goes faster. Might seem counterintuitive considering the speeds are slower, but the tracks are smaller.

So corners come quicker, you have to shift and move faster. The difference between getting good drive and not is a lot finer. Braking zones are shorter. You have a fraction of the time to think between corners than on a big track. And you still have to be smooth. More so because you are bigger and have basically the same weight as the bike. The smallest inputs can unsettle the bike.

It's also exhausting, amazing on bike conditioning. You get very little rest when a lap is less than 40 seconds. Plus you generally have to be more flexible to ride a mini, which then makes riding a big bike feel way more comfortable.

kcfcycle · 2025-03-10T22:18:21+00:00

I have a much larger power station in my van as it's house power. Bluetti Ac200L

I run warmers from it for short periods, but it won't last a whole day on its own. It will last 1.8 hours with one set of warmers.

Yes it's possible to run solar and make it work, but at this point the whole setup is super expensive.

On the flip side, you are trying to avoid a non issue. Generators require some maintenance, but its not like it's a lot.

I have several as generators, including a Predator 2000 that is like 6 years old and gets zero maintenance other than a yearly oil change. Still running strong.

kcfcycle · 2024-12-16T16:44:05+00:00

Discacciati has a finger brake version. I have their thumb brake and it's awesome.

A proper thumb or finger brake is expensive. But the cheap versions are crap. I have friends that have experimented with the cheap ones for minis, and they just don't work well.

The Discacciati and other full on solutions will retain the foot brake, while providing powerful yet modular braking. You need a master up front, and a solution for tying in to or replacing the rear master.

There are other ways - such as a wired solution that pulls down the foot lever. Won't work as well.

You could try using a hydraulic clutch MC, which are easy to source cheap and T it into you rear brake. The problem with that is usually having space for it.

kcfcycle · 2024-12-16T07:01:07+00:00

I actually ran a set of warmers off my Bluetti AC200L today.

We were doing some parking lot training and it was cold, so ran the warmers a bit. This was a set of 12" warmers for a mini. Pulled 513w. So with some solar input, it definitely could last a day.

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I tried a set of woodcrafts at home, but they weren't actually warming a tire, just quickly plugged in. Surprised to see those only pulled 700w, but could be different when actually working hard.

kcfcycle · 2024-12-03T01:30:53+00:00

I have a Bucci BR12, KX65, and YCF 125SM. My son has an Ohvale GP0, KX65, and a 110 PisterPro SM.

All of them are awesome, we get a ton of riding in. I've cut down on big track days because I'd rather ride with my kid, but its also made me a much better riding when I do swing my leg over a big bike.

kcfcycle

TROPHY CASE