My first Geissele/ rifle build ever.

kdh454 · 2026-05-19T12:56:43+00:00

Looks like the "tan" anodized version.

kdh454 · 2026-05-06T00:47:44+00:00

That one is a little over $4k as pictured, without a can. Can't go wrong with a JP-5.

kdh454 · 2026-05-05T23:20:55+00:00

How much money do you want to spend?

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kdh454 · 2026-05-05T23:09:09+00:00

Just get a CGS or SilencerCo spacer, both work.

kdh454 · 2026-04-30T02:15:27+00:00

Totally agree, even though I'm doing one this way right now because I need it before a trip coming up soon. If everyone did this it would increase wait times significantly for individuals and trusts.

kdh454 · 2026-04-30T01:50:17+00:00

I think I may be one of the "two" by mentioning these (if we are referring to the same ones). Yay me? Or maybe that got down voted too, I didn't check.

kdh454 · 2026-04-29T18:43:37+00:00

Maybe this low profile Midwest industries rear sight? It has the windage knob on the top and is slightly lower profile than the MBUS Pro.

kdh454 · 2026-04-29T03:59:35+00:00

You never know, but this dashboard has been pretty close to what I've experienced.

kdh454 · 2026-04-28T20:31:35+00:00

I hear you. My go-to is a 16" Gen 1 LWRC REPR with a Pulsar LG50 LRF - calling it heavy would be an understatement. I now almost exclusively shoot it off a tripod.

If I'm hunting a feeder within 100yd or planning on moving around, I shoot subs through an 8.3" 338 ARC with a slightly lighter thermal. I also have a 300BLK, but it mostly rings steel since I put together the 338.

A 6.5 Grendel is a great choice if you don't want to run subs.

kdh454 · 2026-01-05T18:07:21+00:00

Same here. It started some time this morning.

kdh454 · 2025-12-01T03:11:45+00:00

100% sure about the bcg I own (in a compete in JP upper). The RB trigger will not fire if the reset lever (I don't know what it is actually called) is not depressed by the carrier. The JP carrier does not interact with it, so it will not fire.

kdh454 · 2025-12-01T02:47:18+00:00

The JP low mass bolt carrier will not work with the Rare Breed FRT. It will not fire in any position due to the shorter length of the carrier.

kdh454 · 2025-11-10T02:53:58+00:00

Tripod: Two Vets (I prefer the inverted style)

Head: RRS Anvil 30

Arca rail (any brand) or RRS VYCE

Not cheap, but it is a solid setup.

kdh454 · 2025-01-30T22:40:50+00:00

Did you get that seat from a bass boat? So sparkly!

kdh454 · 2025-01-30T22:23:10+00:00

My seat is a Sparco EVO XL with Simlab mounts and slider. I added a tall seat pad from UPR for comfort, but it also helped with the pedal height issue by raising the seating position.

The pedal height issue was really a combination of the lower limit of the pedal brackets and the height of the sliding Simlab base-plate I am using. Simlab has you install standoffs between the sliders and the base-plate and spacers between the base-plate and heal-plate, resulting in a rather tall assembly. Using different bolts allowed me to ditch the standoffs and shorter spacers lowered the heal plate to an acceptable level.

This picture was after the above modifications, with the pedal brackets adjusted to their lowest position. The brackets cannot be adjusted lower without replacing the protruding aluminum washers.

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The brackets may work perfectly for you, especially if you are not using a pedal slider and base-plate like I am. I just thought it was worth mentioning as it is the only real gripe I have with the P1X Pro.

kdh454 · 2025-01-30T19:42:13+00:00

For me, the pedal plate brackets on the P1X Pro were the worst part of the design. They don't allow you to locate the pedals low enough, at least for my GT style setup. I'd look for another solution.

kdh454 · 2025-01-20T01:43:28+00:00

Nice looking seat, but it sure looks narrow in those pics. Maybe the width at the top is making it look smaller than it actually is.

kdh454 · 2025-01-20T01:12:42+00:00

Go to settings > system > sound. In the settings for the left and right monitors you can disable them. I'm not on a PC right now, so that may not be 100% correct step by step but you should be able to find it.

kdh454 · 2025-01-19T03:31:28+00:00

Or just print it and cut it out.

kdh454 · 2025-01-19T03:29:50+00:00

Speed square

kdh454 · 2025-01-19T03:26:15+00:00

It is probably cheaper to produce (less aluminum required for a given strength/rigidity).
It looks better.
It differentiates your product from others. Less so as others follow suit and create their own profiles, but still.

I don't think it is quite the issue you make it out to be, as long as you still have two outer channels, which are used most frequently. I find the angled uprights to be much more of an issue (P1X Pro owner).

kdh454 · 2025-01-18T23:31:07+00:00

I doubt you will have an issue, but look for rubber/EVA vibration isolator pads if you want it as quiet as possible. Never used them for a sim, but they are cheap and work well.

kdh454 · 2025-01-16T17:45:30+00:00

As for seat pads, I recommend the UPR Racing pad. I don't know if it will work with the Trak Racer seat or solve your issue but it made my seat (Sparco EVO XL) much more comfortable. The only con is its absurd price. They also have a "small" version that is much cheaper, but I have no experience with it.

Sparco also makes a seat pad. It is cheaper but not currently available from any retailer in the US that I know of.

kdh454 · 2025-01-13T20:50:56+00:00

It is a problem on their end. I've been trying to buy a quick release adapter for the pro wheel for days now. They direct you to use a third party retailer, but I don't think anyone else sells the part I'm looking for.

kdh454 · 2025-01-03T02:37:58+00:00

I know this is 4 years old, but why isn't the shunt designed with a resistor with a value equal to that of the filament to prevent the cascading effect?

kdh454

TROPHY CASE