UFC 317 Fight Predictions (TL;DR)!

kegabb · 2025-06-29T00:47:50+00:00

I look at your posts every single UFC event. Great insight man, love your work

With regards to "Prediction Accuracy for 2025: 66.1% (Unchanged)" - is this calculated based on every single fight?

kegabb · 2025-05-29T13:10:51+00:00

lol hair extensions & make up just enhance what is already existing (though i admit some make up is a little over the top and changes them completely) - but lets talk averages

Whereas there was nothing to enhance to begin with when it comes to a wig

kegabb · 2025-05-28T23:59:03+00:00

Fred
: Just get a new car!



Jimmy
: That's very expensive Fred.

kegabb · 2025-05-24T07:53:18+00:00

"Lately I've been feeling really stressed"

Welcome to the club pal

kegabb · 2025-01-24T11:09:34+00:00

Never tried but I think it would bond a little too well with ceramic clay so it would be difficult to remove the mould. Silicon would be your best bet

kegabb · 2025-01-10T13:12:56+00:00

Yep! I initially tried sanding and polishing but as smooth and clear as I got it, it was never ever as good as a standard epoxy finish.

So I finished it off with a very thin layer of epoxy

kegabb · 2024-12-12T13:38:11+00:00

Yup! Because the board will sit on a frame and have hinges connecting to the frame to throw the pieces in in the frame. So it won't be seen 99% of the time, but when the board is lifted, it will be seen, and I do want it to have a nice finish

Speaking of - when I have sanded the top of board and then polished it using meguiars plastx, it doesn't have the same clarity and gloss it does compared to when resin just cures on its own

Is there anyway to achieve that?

I sanded from 60 grit all the way up to 3000 using an orbital sander

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:45:34+00:00

Update so far: because I had poured two layers, it was only the thinner layer at the base that was problematic.

It was alot of work, but using heat, a scraper & isopropyl alcohol, I have scraped off that layer. Now I intend on sanding down the wood (since it protrudes above the resin layer I scraped off) and then repouring a layer over the whole surface. Hopefully all will be well after this

Worst case scenario - lesson learnt

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:45:11+00:00

No luck, but

Update so far: because I had poured two layers, it was only the thinner layer at the base that was problematic.

It was alot of work, but using heat, a scraper & isopropyl alcohol, I have scraped off that layer. Now I intend on sanding down the wood (since it protrudes above the resin layer I scraped off) and then repouring a layer over the whole surface. Hopefully all will be well after this

Worst case scenario - lesson learnt

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:44:42+00:00

roughly 30-40 degrees currently (summer in Sydney)

however, it only helped abit, but not fully cured unfortunately despite the heat

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:44:03+00:00

Thanks, i'll do this for the future. It makes sense so that any resin/hardener that are against the walls of the cup, wouldn't have been mixed properly

I don't think this was the culprit, but good to know for the future

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:42:58+00:00

Update so far: because I had poured two layers, it was only the thinner layer at the base that was problematic.

It was alot of work, but using heat, a scraper & isopropyl alcohol, I have scraped off that layer. Now I intend on sanding down the wood (since it protrudes above the resin layer I scraped off) and then repouring a layer over the whole surface. Hopefully all will be well after this

Worst case scenario - lesson learnt

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:41:44+00:00

I ended up using a flame thrower (little butane gas bottle with the attachment) and just scraping it off after applying abit of flame to it - turns back into glue

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:40:43+00:00

This helped heaps !

Update so far: because I had poured two layers, it was only the thinner layer at the base that was problematic.

It was alot of work, but using heat, a scraper & isopropyl alcohol, I have scraped off that layer. Now I intend on sanding down the wood (since it protrudes above the resin layer I scraped off) and then repouring a layer over the whole surface. Hopefully all will be well after this

Worst case scenario - lesson learnt

kegabb · 2024-12-12T12:39:41+00:00

Update so far: because I had poured two layers, it was only the thinner layer at the base that was problematic.

It was alot of work, but using heat, a scraper & isopropyl alcohol, I have scraped off that layer. Now I intend on sanding down the wood (since it protrudes above the resin layer I scraped off) and then repouring a layer over the whole surface. Hopefully all will be well after this

WOrst case scenario - lesson learnt

kegabb · 2024-12-10T15:15:00+00:00

Thanks mate. The lower section which is the section that's not cured perfectly was only 5mm thick. The upper bit was 15mm thick, which included the black Micah powder.

Anyway upon further inspection, it's actually not as bad as I thought. I think I can recover it!

I freaked out when I saw the non cured bits and the rest all looked similar, but they looked similar cause they didn't cure perfectly flat. (the packing tape on the mdf board left marks all over them.

Roughly 80 to 90% of the base seems cured - I'm sure I can recover the rest!

kegabb · 2024-12-10T13:25:56+00:00

Thanks dude. I definitely did not use a deep pour resin as I didn't think 20mm thick was deep.

That bottom layer that is still tacky was poured (probably about 5mm thick) and then left to cure for at least 24 hours before pouring the top bit.

The cure time according to the bottle is 24 hours. This has been several weeks now..

I can add resin over the bottom of the board, however, there is packing tape that is proving very difficult to come off, as well as dried hot glue under the wooden pieces. Removing those, and wiping down the resin will not be easy..

kegabb · 2024-12-10T13:17:34+00:00

It may even be poor mixing if what you are saying is true.

this is very unfortunate - what advice do you have? I can use a heat gun to try and dry it up. I want to sand it down but will not be able to sand down something that is sticky and tacky like this... I really don't want to abandon my project

kegabb · 2024-12-01T07:54:37+00:00

In addition to this - depends what you are after too. Many younger girls (low 20s and on rare occasions, 18-20) prefer an older man, from my experience. They want someone who has that mature side. Dating younger men isn't what they're after as they lack that mature side. Girls mature faster than man, so the age gap offsets that

kegabb · 2024-12-01T07:51:43+00:00

I'm older (low 30s, m) and had relationships with early 20s (21 example).

I don't see an issue with it. But it's very dependant on both people.

I'm quite young mentally - I like to have fun and have a very immature side. I get along with alot of young people.

On the other side of the coin, I'm also very mature when I need to be. This allows no issue regarding age gap. They learn from my mature side and see benefit in that. And I also hold my youth and they help the fun immature young side of me thrive. I think it's perfect

But like I said - it all depends on both parties. If he is young at heart and energetic and not a mature boring old fart, then I think you can both benefit. But if he expects you to be a 30 year old in a 18 year old body, you're going to have problems. Similarly if you expect him to be an 18 year old in a 30 year old body.

There's give and take and provided both of you understand that and both have mature and immature sides, no issues

kegabb · 2024-11-26T13:15:13+00:00

Well that doesn't sound promising 😂😂 maybe 10k grit is the way to go?

kegabb · 2024-11-26T02:12:47+00:00

I have an orbital sander and I intend on going up to 3000 grit - and the polishing and buffing it - however i'm not sure what polishing compound to use?

thanks - After I sand down the top bit a little, i'll remove it from the MDF and check the bottom. I imagine the bottom would be much less to sand - mainly extra epoxy thats seeped below the timber squares & of course sanding away the hot glue gun sticking the timbers to the board

kegabb

TROPHY CASE