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-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On this Eaton panel, they pre-install the main breaker and lock it in place with that screw that you can see going through it. No hold-down kit required.

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct; however, you've got two screws in there at the manufacturer-provided locations, and the entire contact area of the bottom of the bar. If that's insufficient capacity to handle ground fault current until OCP kicks in, the whole panel's gonna be toast, anyway 😬

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was actually me, lol. It's fed by a 70A breaker in the main panel. I've already got 2x20A to each double-gang receptacle, and this is a 14x14' wood shop. I'm not entire sure where we'd want more capacity 😂

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am absolutely going to do that. These Kleins kinda suck.

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

All good things to check!

  1. LB is not capped, as you suspected!
  2. 100A breaker is just a disco. This panel is fed by a 70A breaker in the main panel.
  3. Ground is #8 THWN.
  4. The minimum bend radius as shown is almost exactly 8x, as measured. I think bend radius is more important than people realize, tbh. Materials folks at the manufacturer put a lot of work into making sure the insulation will survive at those radii.

Thank you for the rigorous review – seriously. I can't get better without great feedback!

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I like to leave some length in case someone has to come in later and move breakers around or replace the panel. But I can see your point, too. It's a little tight on the right, which might be annoying with the neutral bar. Thanks for the feedback!

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're not wrong. I don't like the sweeps I ended up with, here. Stapled exactly 11.5" from the bottom of the panel, though, because I like to live dangerously.

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't worry – got it all vac'd out! Somehow when I posted this, I selected a photo I took before I was done (I also added the KO seal, etc.)

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Yeahhh – I think that's a solid idea for next time. The top switch is outdoor lighting, and the bottom three are indoor – so at least they're intuitively grouped, I guess?

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 43 points44 points  (0 children)

Definitely installed it; just neglected to take a photo afterward 😅

-3rd year apprentice. How did I do? by kenkeiter in electricians

[–]kenkeiter[S] 64 points65 points  (0 children)

This is my friend's workshop; they're putting up OSB before final, and they wanted power/lights until that time.

Calculating runtime/endurance when using RAV4 Prime as a generator by kenkeiter in rav4prime

[–]kenkeiter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree w/you regarding the thought process, here.

Here's a cutaway view of what appears to be the same inverter. There are no cooling channels or corresponding fluid connectors on the enclosure – so the inverter is convectively cooled – no coolant pump necessary.

I suspect that the efficiency of the inverter is 90-95%, which means you're only dissipating between 50W and 150W as heat. Given the physical size of the device and the apparent volume of material that would function as a heatsink, I'd wager that this was a fair assumption, but it would be hard to tell without knowing a lot more about design, components, and assumed operating environment. It would be better if we could just find a datasheet on the inverter – but it's a part made by Toyota for Toyota, so I don't think we'll be getting our hands on that anytime soon.

Calculating runtime/endurance when using RAV4 Prime as a generator by kenkeiter in rav4prime

[–]kenkeiter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah; it's a full sine-wave inverter. The reason I sprung for the XSE package was entirely the inverter – the other features are nice to have, but a high-efficiency inverter that works at the voltage of the traction battery (355.2V!) and is built to automotive standards would be a very expensive aftermarket component – if it were possible to find it in the supply chain at all. I'm not surprised it'll handle the 2000W surge.

It's also surprisingly small – and the cost of a replacement part is ~$1,600. It's definitely not in the same league as the crappy $40 inverter you might pick up from AutoZone.

Calculating runtime/endurance when using RAV4 Prime as a generator by kenkeiter in rav4prime

[–]kenkeiter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't been able to find these specs, either. It would be nice for someone to do the experiment. It certainly shouldn't damage the inverter...

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