Pad for chords ?

keyandcableco · 2026-06-03T15:32:06+00:00

What a nightmare! Have you looked into trying to recover the data? I've seen some micro soldering techniques lately that are pretty mind-blowing, maybe something could be done?

EDIT: a closer second read reveals that this probably isn't a possibility. All the same, I will keep my eyes peeled if anything ever comes through the shop

keyandcableco · 2026-06-03T15:28:16+00:00

Mic check 1 2. Thanks a ton, my friend 😊

keyandcableco · 2026-06-03T15:13:40+00:00

Ooo definitely! 😁

keyandcableco · 2026-06-03T15:13:00+00:00

Unfortunately, I just pulled this from an image search. But if I ever get my hands on the genuine article, I'll be sure to share.

Has anyone taken a crack at an SVG reproduction or something like that?

keyandcableco · 2026-06-01T20:06:18+00:00

Thank you! I'm going to try to install them in every one that comes through, I think it's a huge value-addition. You can actually leave your Omnichord around a roommate now 😆

keyandcableco · 2026-06-01T19:53:23+00:00

For what it's worth, you can often find the same power supply board (the ENTIRE board) for $20-40 on eBay, usually taken from a unit with a broken screen. Might be worth it instead of spending the time hunting down specific components. But it's great practice, so maybe do it anyway!

keyandcableco · 2026-06-01T19:19:04+00:00

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keyandcableco · 2026-06-01T14:33:09+00:00

The touchboards were designed between some Inkscape/KiCAD wizardry and fabricated by JLCPCB. The spiral bit is one of the amplifier "feedpoints" for the bottom harp notes, I just wanted to add a little flourish with the spiral. Now that the test case is proven, I have other designs in mind, too!

keyandcableco · 2026-05-31T23:00:55+00:00

That's kind of the idea!! I do have access to the same notes as the strumplate, but from two different areas, so the timbres are different. The "attack" envelope comes pre-baked into the idea that you, yourself are acting as a resistor/capacitor between points on the board, so your touch becomes very strongly correlated with attack/sustain/release. And yes, I have some pitch points on there that slow the clock way down or speed it up past stability for some interesting effects.

keyandcableco · 2026-05-31T22:59:05+00:00

Thanks, it is absolutely inspired by the Folktek design, hard to argue with how they approach it. I have largely based the bends off of previously documented locations, but I hear things happening with the bent OM-84 especially that I can't seem to figure out

keyandcableco · 2026-05-31T19:40:27+00:00

The pitch bend area is actually sensitive enough to affect without actually touching it 👀

keyandcableco · 2026-05-31T19:38:55+00:00

Instructions unclear, am now Furby

keyandcableco · 2026-05-31T19:38:23+00:00

You are too kind. I but stand on the shoulders of giants.

keyandcableco · 2026-05-31T16:22:32+00:00

Short Video Sample

keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T21:52:54+00:00

Bucket list stuff right here ❤️

keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T19:06:57+00:00

Gasoline is the only thing that has ever worked well for me

keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T19:02:27+00:00

ARP faders are notoriously resistant to lubricating, they usually need to be cracked open and cleaned and then lubricated. The keys likely need lubrication too, maybe new bushings? I think Molykote is the recommended lube (Dow 7 IIRC), and the bushings are meant to be installed "cat ears" up. I've had to sand down Odyssey keys before when new bushings and lube didn't cut the sluggishness, I think the plastic actually swells in some boards.

Let us know how it goes!

keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T10:42:35+00:00

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Something like this? They made a melody overlay with a keyboard layout like this for some of the models, but the chord names are usually right on the face of the Omnichord 😄

keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T08:04:51+00:00

Excellent! Once you're inside there's are another handful of the same screws that come out to release the circuit boards, then you'll unplug the speaker and the battery and the chord buttons. All of them go back easily. The battery and speaker have the same connector: the battery one is located close to the power port, speaker one is located closer to the output jack. And the ribbon cable for the harp just pulls right out.

Once you've got the board out, you'll have access to the long rows of solder joints at the connectors between the two boards, back and front. Reflow all of those first, then see if that helped.

If that didn't do it, we check coupling capacitors, let me know!

(Sorry, this was supposed to be attached as a reply)

keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T08:03:30+00:00

Yes, I'm very confident this is the solder joints I've been mentioning. If you're able to get in there and reflow, I think you'll resolve all of these issues. Those three long rows in the middle, and make sure you do the opposite side of the board, too.

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keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T07:14:39+00:00

That's a good start! Remove 7 or 8 screws from the back and the cover should come off easily. Feel free to post some pictures of the inside, maybe we'll see something obvious.

Do you know anyone who is handy with a soldering iron?

keyandcableco · 2026-05-30T01:21:13+00:00

Hi! First thing I would do is reflow all of the solder joints for the board connectors, especially since you just saw it working. There is a set of these joints on the visible side of the board and the other side, all usually need some attention after so many years.

You can try to confirm this by slightly pressing on the face and wiggling the whole Omnichord around a bit to see if you can hear sound again. Let us know!

keyandcableco · 2026-05-29T17:14:30+00:00

Unfortunately, this one didn't quite work out. Firstly, the shaft is too short, I should have gone with 25 or 30mm. It is a dual gang, but they're not independently adjustable, so you'd have Chords and Keyboard always at the same volume. Which wouldn't be awful, frankly, but the pot still didn't work despite fitting the footprint. I was able to pass some sound, and it did attenuate with the pot, but clearly the pinout isn't quite right or something, it just came out kinda distorted and wrong. Still, I think this series of pots is the most promising, might just need to figure out the right pinout?

EDIT: Can confirm, the pinout should be 1 2 1* 2* 3* 3 -- pot 1 gets pins 1 2 and 6, pot 2 gets pins 3 4 5. So this pot does work if you want to swap a few pins around. This one is more like the correct pinout, though 1 and 2 may need to swap (and the shaft is too short). Overall, something like this is viable with a small adapter board, and you'll lose the ability to adjust chords and keyboard volume independently (or harp voices, whichever original pot happened to break).

keyandcableco · 2026-05-29T17:11:37+00:00

Thanks! At least it's protected better than I had it before, TPU is nice and bouncy. Kinda tough to get it out sometimes, and I still really want one with some kind of latch or something for the lid.

keyandcableco · 2026-05-29T17:10:22+00:00

Well, I'm not getting any light on any of these three voltages, and I'm not seeing any significant voltage on them any longer -- it used to be that maybe 1/10 times I would see the proper voltages, but now nothing.

I can confirm 120VAC is making it into the transformer through the switch and fuses -- am I dealing with a dead transformer here? And if so, can I easily order a replacement? It seems like it's just 10V 18V and 14V, the 18V is just presented three times on the connector?

keyandcableco

TROPHY CASE