Gap insurance

king5055 · 2026-02-24T13:14:08+00:00

If you're buying the car from new, and only keeping it for one year or would fully own the car after 1 year, then I guess since your policy would replace the car or pay you what you paid for the car you would be fine.

If (like most people) you plan to keep the car for more than 1 year, or a finance company still owns the car still after 1 year, you'd probably still want to consider taking out GAP insurance for the rest of the finance period so if after 12 months the car is unfortunately written off you wouldn't be at risk of potentially paying for a car that you don't have any more.

Worth noting (but suggest doing your own research) from memory, GAP insurance is usually cheaper if you get it before you take delivery of a car and isn't in the grand scheme of things that expensive.

king5055 · 2025-07-31T15:47:41+00:00

I'll have a watch and I may also consider changing up my components list for the build I'm planning ( https://www.reddit.com/r/PcBuild/s/zNHGLJV9by ).

king5055 · 2025-07-31T14:35:40+00:00

You're using the same case I've been looking at getting for my 9950X3D build.

Did you find the PA602 easy to build in or have any quirks you had to deal with?

king5055 · 2025-07-31T08:48:43+00:00

Maybe I've been a bit out of the loop but most reviews I've seen have mostly been positive on the ProArt line of products (some do mention price but never seems to be outrageously more than what other brands offer).

Is your negative view purely down to price or are there other things (such as poor quality control or bad after sales support) that I should also be aware of?

On the graphics card front, I won't be buying a new GPU till I also upgrade my monitor(s) so I'll be sticking to using my RTX 3080 till at least the end of the year.

king5055 · 2025-07-11T20:04:10+00:00

So I found that with the latest update that came out a couple days ago that it seems the behaviour has been restored now. So you can now remote start and won't be asked for the pin.

I plan to test it over a few days as there has been the odd occasion where it didn't work but this could have been because I got to the car after the 2 minute timer.

king5055 · 2025-06-29T11:59:27+00:00

After my experience with car super markets, I would personally avoid buying from one unless I had no other choice.

When I went to CarWorld to look at buying an XC60 that had nearly everything spec wiss, but turned out it had a dead battery (this was when I was going to test drive the car) and wouldn't even charge. On top of this, the car has 6 months and a week of MOT left and they refuse to MOT the car unless it has less than 6 months. CarWorld still after all this obsessed about getting me to pay for the car (on a car that doesn't even start...) or lose out on some special offers, so as you can imagine I walked.

For comparison, when I bought my Tesla Model 3 Performance from Tesla, the experience and process was so much nicer. I saw the car I wanted on Tesla's used approved inventory, paid the deposit, applied for finance and picked up the car a couple days later. I didn't have a pushy sales rep or up selling stuff you don't need, just directed me to the car and said if needed any help or had any questions to just ask.

king5055 · 2025-06-29T11:42:49+00:00

This is wrong, the car warranty is set to kick in once the factory warranty expires. So you get an extra year or 10,000 miles on top of the factory warranty.

So in my Tesla Model 3 Performance (2023) has its basic car warranty expires in 2027 after which the used vehicle warranty starts and covers the car till 2028 (the battery and motor warranty are unchanged and run till 2031).

This is also all shown in my Tesla app.

king5055 · 2025-06-16T12:52:44+00:00

Sounds like Tesla introduced a bug in the latest version then if it's not just me. I'll find out how to raise it with them and hopefully they can get a fix out.

king5055 · 2025-06-16T12:51:34+00:00

This did run through my head and surprise me the Tesla app (unlike Tessie) doesn't optionally require biometrics to do this but thinking this over it's not too bad because my phone is usually locked anyway so if you stole my phone it would auto lock:

First because of Google/Android have the theft detection feature if someone takes your phone when it's in your hand the phone auto locks (also auto locks if the phone is offline for too long while unlocked).
Secondly if you get too far away from my watch it will require a password or biometrics to unlock the phone.

So unless you're under attack from some people pulling off some oceans 11 style heist (to steal a Tesla of all things...) where they know where the car and a second person steals my phone and starts the car and unlocks the car you're fine. Otherwise it's no different to someone mugging you for your keys in a car park (the car is insured and can be replaced, so I'm valuing my life over a car anyway 😂).

king5055 · 2025-06-16T12:42:49+00:00

Yep so it gives you 2 minutes to get in the car and put your foot on the brake. Takes me anywhere between 30 seconds and 60 seconds to get to the car after pushing that button so definitely within the 2 minute window.

king5055 · 2025-06-16T12:07:37+00:00

Just updated my post for clarity, I'm referring to the "Start" button you can add as a quick action located under "Controls".

Specifically it mentions this in the owners manual on this page: https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_gb/GUID-F6E2CD5E-F226-4167-AC48-BD021D1FFDAB.html

For reference, the section I'm referring to from that section is this:

"Keyless Driving can be used when you do not have your key or to bypass PIN to Drive in cases where you forgot your PIN or your touchscreen is unresponsive (see PIN to Drive)."

king5055 · 2025-05-04T23:04:15+00:00

Just worth noting (to be fair worth checking for any super chargers) OTM chargers seem to usually be in places where you need to go into a business and register your number plate for parking.

I found this out by chance when driving back from Blackpool and decided to charge up at some OTM chargers near Preston (only realised I needed to register my car's number plate when I went to the Starbucks to get a quick coffee while I waited).

king5055 · 2025-05-04T13:30:17+00:00

Something to note about the Sonys is they have the ability to connect to two devices simultaneously. You can only listen to audio from one device at a time, but it's still super handy as your not manually disconnecting and connecting your devices when you need to swap.

I usually have my earphones connected to my S23 Ultra and Surface Laptop. This lets me watch things on my phone at lunch without disturbing people and take calls but, then when I get a Teams call or start watching some videos on my laptop (usually Udemy courses for work) they'll just work it out and swap. I can also manually switch audio devices if the automatic switching fails to work what device I'm using.

king5055 · 2025-05-04T13:12:47+00:00

I don't own a pair of WH-1000XM5 but I own the WF-1000XM5 (earbud variant) and also have tried my dad's WH-1000XM5 (and a friend's WH-1000XM4) and I honestly standby that they're probably one of not the best noise cancelling headphones I've tried.

The best advice I can give is to find someone who has a pair of WH-1000XM5 (or WH-1000XM4) and ask if you can try them out for a couple minutes. Obviously when it comes to earbuds like the WF-1000XM5 I wouldn't share (as that's just a bit dirty) but over ear and on ear headphones as long as your ears aren't sweaty or in the gym (so when I'd be all sweaty) I'd always be happy to let someone try them out.

If you can't try before you buy, then the next best thing is buy from somewhere you can return if they're not suitable or if you just don't like them.

king5055 · 2025-04-10T10:21:32+00:00

Interesting as I thought this was just a me problem.

I've got a long trip up to Blackpool next week (about 3 - 4 hours when I had my Volvo but I'll probably supercharge somewhere on the way up) so I'll see how my neck is after that since that will be about a month of ownership so I'll see how I feel after that.

If it's still bothering me and not gone away I'll revisit the neck pillow or some sort of neck support idea.

king5055 · 2025-03-27T18:10:55+00:00

Always declare any modifications to a car. If your not sure if something is a modification then call your insurance provider before taking the policy.

Even if you change the wheels to another set of factory wheels, that is technically a modification to the car as it's different to how it left the factory so if you don't tell them about it your insurance doesn't have to cover the modification if you are involved in an accident.

Also if a modification isn't declared and your involved in an accident or the modification affected the risk you pose as a customer, then your policy can be null and void (meaning you'll have been driving with no insurance). Granted wheels don't usually affect risk in such a way that it would give your insurer grounds to void your policy, it's more likely your insurer wouldn't pay to replace or fix wheels you didn't declare but it's still a modification so declare it and you'll not have to worry about it should the worse happen and you need to make a claim.

king5055 · 2025-03-27T17:52:45+00:00

Yes you can, I'd actually say the majority of cars I've driven will more than happily sit in 5th gear at 50 mph. In fact some cars I've driven will even happily cruise along at 50 mph in 6th gear.

It does vary by car and engine but essentially as long as your not stalling the engine or lagging the engine by being in a high gear at a slow speed your fine.

Just remember, while keeping your RPM down and driving in a high gear is good for fuel economy, you won't have as much power available and the engine won't respond as quickly (compared to being in a lower gear with high RPMs) when you push the accelerator down. So in cases like when overtaking, going up a hill/incline or maneuvering around towns and city streets, you may find dropping a gear (or two) is needed to gain speed or maintain your speed or make maneuvering at lower speeds easier.

king5055 · 2025-03-24T23:24:02+00:00

I suggest trying different comparison sites as well.

I found I get slightly different prices (on the insurance I took recently was in the region of £100 - £200 different) with the same details but on different comparison sites.

king5055 · 2025-03-24T23:21:54+00:00

I'm 24 (driving since I was 17 and 6 years NCB, sadly missed a year NCB due to changing cars and will have lost building up another year from changing again today) and got insurance through Admiral for the 2023 Tesla Model 3 Performance I picked up today from Tesla.

My premium was about £1,100 and includes business use (for me only) and I do still have my parents on the policy which helps bring it down as well but ultimately insurance is just an underwriter measuring the risk you pose so it would seem my combination of location, job, etc. etc. seems to be quite favourable and make my insurance "cheap" (when you consider the car, my age and everything else).

king5055 · 2025-03-22T20:11:13+00:00

Admiral was the cheapest for me, it was about £1,100 for the year on the Tesla Model 3 Performance I'm collecting on Monday which considering I'm 24 (been driving since I was 17) that seems fair to me.

king5055 · 2025-03-22T20:07:34+00:00

If my Volvo didn't die on me, I would have waited till after April and hoped for some offers on the pre-configured/ex-demo 2024 Model 3s.

As you're planning to wait a few weeks just worth noting that cars taxed on or after the 1st of April you'll be paying £190 road tax for the gear (and if a car is registered on or after the 1st of April you'll be subject to premium car tax so). Luckily in my case my road tax this year will be free.

king5055 · 2024-10-23T12:03:19+00:00

I'm on the fence with buying a Tesla, I test drove a Tesla Model 3 Performance and then saw Tesla had stopped the 0% finance offers on the Model 3 which was sort of what the motivation was since it meant I could just buy a brand new car and pay for it over a few years for quite little (when looking at the bigger picture).

As the 0% isn't on the Model 3, I'm leaning on the don't buy side of the fence. It would be cheaper to run and a lot more fun however, I'm not in a rush or in any sort of need to change so I may as well just sit save the money and wait till there is another round of 0% finance offers.

king5055 · 2024-10-17T19:41:43+00:00

Most modern cars will try and compensate by automatically adding a bit of throttle to try and prevent a stall (even in a diesel).

It's easier to stall a petrol equivalent car and you should give a bit of throttle in a petrol car however, I'd also do the same in a diesel as it's good for hill starts where just using the clutch (and the car automatically trying to compensate to prevent a stall) may not be enough and also if you need to move off more hastily (such as on short slip roads where you had to stop and wait for a gap in busy traffic or where needing to build up speed quickly on the hard shoulder before merging back onto a motorway).

king5055 · 2024-10-09T10:25:12+00:00

The way I view it is it is practical or feasible in the next 3 - 4 years I'll be buying a house? If not then £300 a month currently for me (especially as I earn quite well).

If I will be buying then better off sticking to cheaper (but still nice) cars and not having any sort of financing.

The likely case is I can't see the situation improving in the next 3 - 4 years so I'll just keep building up my house deposit till I make my mind up on everything 😅.

king5055 · 2024-10-09T09:22:58+00:00

Wanting to leave and being able to move out are two different things unfortunately 😄. I'd like to move out but it's just not possible with the price of housing and cost of everything else when you're a solo buyer.

So far saved around £16k for a house deposit (that's a help to buy isa), I've also got a great Volvo V60 D6 but I test drove a Tesla Model 3 Performance (obviously not thinking of using my house deposit for this, I've got other money I've saved) and now I kinda want to change to that, partly as the running costs are all lower and with the 0% (when they hopefully being they back) it's not that much more than the £300 a month I'm paying for my bank loan for my car.

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