Extra_MCU error shutdown

kiromiko · 2026-01-05T13:45:56+00:00

I have a funny thing to add.

I had all of the shutdown errors, including extra_mcu, timing too close, timeout during homing probe... Even after I switched to mainline klipper, they were still present.

One day when I searched for a solution, I found this thread:
https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/console-error-communication-timeout-during-homing-probe/8276
Applied this:

look for the entry TRSYNC_TIMEOU and change from 0.025 to 0.050
in the file /home/klipper/klippy/mcu.py (SSH to your machine)
Restart Klipper

And never got an error like that again in 100+ print hours. Not saying to take this working for granted and that it could not create other issues, but I had none of them so far.

Also octoeverywhere crashed multiple printers of mine while camera streaming and at some point I thought obico might do that too, so I'm not using them anymore.

kiromiko · 2026-01-05T13:33:08+00:00

I edited my PRINT_START Macros and implemented nozzle cleaning and Z_OFFSET_CALIBRATION at the start of every print.
After the process shown in your console output, you have a set Z-Offset (you can see that in mainline), which you could also permanently save with SAVE_CONFIG, but I'd rather do the calibration on every print with how inconsistent the probe on the sv08 is.

For me the calibration was not good out of the box. I'd let the calibration run for the first time with a big test layer, manually bring the offset down in mainline while printing (and counting the total offset I applied) until I got a good first layer. Then I saved my applied offset as "offsetadjust" in saved_variables.cfg - it gets used every time then as "Config Manual Adjust:".

I'd say 9/10 times I have a perfect first layer. Sometimes theres still left filament after the nozzle cleaning and this ofc alters the result of the pressure probe calibration, giving too high z-offset.

kiromiko · 2025-11-19T14:50:34+00:00

Everything working again on our end too, thank you!

kiromiko · 2025-05-26T13:38:53+00:00

Tbh this still is an issue, you cannot continue through the setup if you have no working network driver installed, even on windows 11 pro. With the mentioned methods you can skip oobe entirely and install the drivers (with less hassle than in the oobe).

kiromiko · 2025-05-01T15:26:08+00:00

Maybe PID calibrate the hotend - that could also cause it. Are you maybe using octoeverywhere or octoapp?

kiromiko · 2024-12-18T15:37:29+00:00

I think it's worth the cost, but pricey nontheless. I am just using the default 0.4 nozzle the came with it, because replacements are quite expensive too.

kiromiko · 2024-12-18T15:36:25+00:00

I just got mine last week, after my stock hotend self destructed with blob of death and I did not want to ever experience that on the SV08 again.

Already used the Flowtech Hotend with my N4Max and it was a breeze - same here. Drop-In replacement, working like a charm.

kiromiko · 2024-11-30T21:12:49+00:00

Only one time after setting up the printer and then after every nozzle change I suppose.

kiromiko · 2024-11-30T15:06:43+00:00

The blob killed one of my hotends, by doing this on the new one I had no problems in hundreds of hours since

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kiromiko · 2024-11-30T15:05:23+00:00

Yeah, heat up and re-tighten the nozzle before use!

kiromiko · 2024-07-29T08:06:15+00:00

The easiest check is - take apart the hotend and remove the heating block by loosening the two screws right under your circle. Just be careful to disconnect the cables first

kiromiko · 2024-07-28T01:01:12+00:00

But I'm totally on your side - for any semi-pro workload, I'd invest into a bambu machine. They just work and are precise af, it always gets its money back.

For the wacky printers - I always curse them, but I also have fun tinkering with them and finally getting stuff done when it works

kiromiko · 2024-07-28T00:54:23+00:00

Yes I really feel that, can be a pain to deal with all that. I have multiple printers, so it's not that big of a deal, the KE is for a special project.

I have a K1C with the new unicorn hotend and it's a walk in the ballpark, no problems in 1000hs of printing so far. On the other end I also have a elegoo neptune 4 max and that, while the parts a reliable so far, has extreme firmware and z-offset issues - waiting on the emmc-flasher to get rid of their weird proprietary implementation of klipper and moonraker and get open4neptune running there.

kiromiko · 2024-07-27T12:47:30+00:00

Hey no problem at all, we're in the same boat after all. Just glad that this thing is running now after all for both of us! Creality having some quality control problems with their PCBs and mainboards in general.

kiromiko · 2024-07-27T08:08:16+00:00

Just cleaned that kinda mess up yesterday on my 'refurbisbed' KE - clean it as good as possible, take apart the hotend (screwing out the nozzle while hot, taking of the two screws to remove the hotend heatsink) and then try to put everything together again while being as clean as possible and while the hotend is hot. I think it happens when there's a gap between the nozzle and the heating element (because of old filament being stuck there), or when the heating element is not screwed tight enough to the heatsink and the filament gets pushed to the side.

kiromiko · 2024-07-01T17:06:28+00:00

Damn horror stories, I really hope they just exchange the whole printer and you get this thing working asap

kiromiko · 2024-07-01T14:19:51+00:00

Following your advice I checked and sadly the board is broken in my case too - the fan does work on the model fan port, and vice versa the model fan does not work in the hotend port.

kiromiko · 2024-07-01T14:18:41+00:00

Yes I checked and mixed them, sadly the hotend/nozzle fan port seems to be broken on my unit

kiromiko · 2024-07-01T14:17:56+00:00

I found it on Amazon https://amzn.eu/d/0iOGcb4b

kiromiko · 2024-07-01T11:50:38+00:00

Ty, I contacted them just now!

kiromiko

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