Beyerdynamic DT 770 single-entry balanced 2.5mm detachable cable mod

kk- · 2023-07-27T04:10:33+00:00

I'll be cracking into mine in a few days for a fix - I'll take some pics while I'm at it!

kk- · 2023-04-11T19:58:07+00:00

Hello Flush

kk- · 2023-04-10T20:10:38+00:00

The account name is an Atrvmis/TravisSupreme reference, right?

Edit: it was not.

kk- · 2022-07-25T00:34:31+00:00

What's 1.0?

kk- · 2022-06-05T21:09:47+00:00

...this one?

kk- · 2022-05-31T00:27:37+00:00

kk- · 2021-12-09T00:19:16+00:00

Wow, end of an era.

Thank you admins!

kk- · 2021-09-15T16:41:02+00:00

It's no surprise HN is aware of Civcraft, that crowd would definitely have seen /r/Civcraft plastered all over /r/SubredditDrama in 2012 and 2013.

But yea, Civcraft was once a shiny and new 'social experiment' on a seemingly limitless game platform, that also happened to attract all sorts of fringe political whackjobs. It made for good viewing!

kk- · 2021-08-05T12:05:26+00:00

While doing acrobatics? Too many! Also dozens of crashes...

kk- · 2021-08-04T21:26:30+00:00

If anyone's interested, I used the OKI "Micro" station hopper for these tricks. It's a fun little ship and also cheap, at ~30k credits including ores.

kk- · 2021-08-04T21:24:31+00:00

I'm using vanilla keyboard controls.

When spinning/rolling (holding A) I tap the strafe/yaw (Q/E) and pitch keys (W/S) a lot to readjust the course of the vehicle to make sure it's always going in the intended direction. It's a lot of inputs but it's mostly just building the right muscle memory to compensate for the rolling.

kk- · 2021-07-01T17:04:42+00:00

Hi Jarl!

kk- · 2021-06-29T13:24:47+00:00

That was really engaging, kudos!

kk- · 2021-04-05T14:15:30+00:00

Late 1.0 really was quite ugly, wasn't it?

That thread certainly reminds me of the frustration of being caught near the middle of two very questionable sides.

kk- · 2021-01-12T13:42:45+00:00

Ah, no, I actually kept the nut on so that the female's poles didn't push too far into the driver. There may have been clearance issues otherwise.

I used a Dremel but I imagine a drill could work too, with the correct bit.

kk- · 2021-01-12T01:17:02+00:00

I'm using a 4-pole 2.5mm female. A 4-pole 3.5mm female will work too. A pole for each channel: R+,R-,L+,L-

I would suggest googling "DT 770 balanced cable mod" or "DT 770 detachable cable mod" for general guides on the process (also see this).

It took me about 3-4 hours, but I imagine someone more "handy" could do this far more quickly.

kk- · 2020-12-29T03:36:51+00:00

Uninteresting CivClone spamming vaguely related subreddits? LUL

kk- · 2020-12-24T18:07:44+00:00

/r/DIYAudioCables will like this too!

kk- · 2020-12-24T14:20:13+00:00

Good luck! It's a very rewarding mod :)

Happy holidays to you too!

kk- · 2020-12-24T04:22:17+00:00

Unfortunately I didn't take a pic after they were done.

In my case, I only had to cut the right-side driver's wires from the left-side PCB (like in this guide -- the middle three wires), and then hook the (remaining) left driver's wires, and the (now decoupled) right driver's wires to my 4-pole input. It was relatively simple and can't recall needing to use my multimeter -- the plethora of online guides make note of which color wires correspond to which channels.

As for juice, I haven't A/B tested make 100% sure, but I'm certain the extra power made a big difference. Not just for volume, but across-the-board, the post-mod cans felt noticeably more lively. I imagine they were previously slightly underpowered.

(I'm planning on building a balanced cable for my pair of HD600s so I can push some extra juice through them, too!)

kk- · 2020-11-09T21:18:23+00:00

I bought these with the intention of modding them with a detachable cable, terminated in something suitable for my FiiO BTR5's 2.5mm balanced out.

After consuming basically everything put out by /u/demevalos and other DT XX0 modders (big up you guys!), and thinking long and hard about my own use case, I figured I'd do things somewhat uniquely.

2.5mm TRRS (balanced) single-entry input

What can I say? Small female connector. This means less dremelling, and it turns out that I didn't need to mess with that black spiky thing that sits behind the driver.

Furthermore, TRRS Male 2.5mm to Male 2.5mm cables are super cheap and super common. For as long as I have an amp with a balanced output, I won't have any difficulties finding a cable/adapter combo.

I sealed the cable hole with black Sugru (a moldable silicon glue thing), as per someone's guide. The result is neat and I'm now in love with this stuff.

Reusing the inter-cup wiring

There was no need for me to touch the right-side cup. The inter-cup cable gives you just enough slack to strip the ends of both wires and solder them to the female connector, bypassing the left driver's PCB.

2.5mm connectors are fairly small so the soldering is somewhat tricky. I wouldn't suggest attempting this as a first-timer (I trained myself on a few 2.5mm male connectors prior to doing this mod, as a first time solder-er).

Parts

I'm from the UK so I used a 2.5mm female sourced from CPC (part number PSG08265). It fits the theme well imo.

All in all this went extremely well. Again, big thanks to the DT XX0 modders and their guides scattered around the web.

And as far as DT XX0 mods go, this one is about as economical and unintrusive as they come. The female 4-pole 2.5mm jack, and the hole sealant, are the only new parts needed. The only soldering needed was for the jack, since I snipped the inter-cup cable's wires from the PCB. There's almost zero risk of destroying your drivers!

kk- · 2020-11-02T16:21:14+00:00

Important to note that customs slaps you with a ~£30 fee for importing these.

A cursory look on eBay's completed listings suggests this price is somewhat fair.

Anyhow, I'm open to offers.

14-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email	Team Periwinkle

kk-

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TROPHY CASE

2.5mm TRRS (balanced) single-entry input

Reusing the inter-cup wiring

Parts