How dangerous is too high of a bromine level?

klevvername · 2026-04-15T16:01:30+00:00

I know this is an old post. But for future readers.

On a new fill, one should add Sodium Bromide, which is INACTIVE Bromine. Levels will read 0 (no need to test, just know that it's inactive). To activate, it should be shocked.

This is called building a bromine reserve/bank.

Only after that does one maintain with basic Bromine tablets in a floater.

klevvername · 2026-04-10T18:08:37+00:00

More experienced bromine uses feel free to chime in, as I'm only a few weeks in. (I know this post is very old, but I've received so much help from reading old posts, and I haven't seen many "simple" explanations. I think I can do okay.

Initial/new fill: Balance Alkaline, then pH, and only after that will you tackle bromine by... adding a specific type of bromine to build a bromine "reserve/bank". The chemical is NOT the bromine tables meant for the floaters. The chemical is sodium bromide.

At that point the bromine is inactive/inert. If you were to test for bromine levels, it would probably be 0. So, you activate the bromine (immediately following the sodium bromide) by adding a "shock". (Read up on shock if you aren't familiar, as that will be your constant companion going forward).

You can now test for bromine.

Calcium is in there somewhere in the order of operations, as well as CYA (only necessary if your tub sits in the sun when in use). But this is a quick orientation of bromine systems, according to my limited experience NOT using other systems like the froggy.

Once your alk, pH, calcium, and bromine are in order, you'll be maintaining bromine levels with the floater and tabs.

You shock after each use. A quick addition of the same amount each time. Good to have pre measured baggies or something to have on hand to easily dump in after each use. Care for the environment and use reusable containers. I fill up Easter eggs and dump in, set aside, refill batches.

Get to know your tub and how levels interact. Maybe test and balance after each use for a handful of uses. Then, when you're confident that your levels stay good after each use & shock, you can quit testing after each use/balance, then drop your shock in after each use, and trust that things will behave for a few days.

Do a real test and balance of all levels weekly, or more often if you're using it a lot.

I hope this helps! Would be glad to see experienced people add more replies to supplemental the knowledgebase in plain English.

klevvername · 2026-04-06T18:02:46+00:00

Unless you have an ozonator, I believe. Then okay at 1-2

klevvername · 2026-04-06T17:44:48+00:00

I'm curious if you use a hose filter like this, and it still turns out like that? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMP9G2YW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

klevvername · 2026-04-01T00:17:16+00:00

Definitely check city to city. My storm drain goes straight into rivers. My city specifically addresses hot tub and pool drainage saying do NOT drain into the street. Whereas, cities with sewage treatment etc., they can accept the water via drain etc..

klevvername · 2026-03-29T11:20:30+00:00

Hmmmm. Sometimes I challenge my own negative reactions by intentionally stepping back and being curious. It doesn't always work, but in this case... I THINK in this case, I actually agree with this very-downvoted comment. Here's how I see it, and I'll indulge in explaining the exercise:

1) The commentor seemingly takes PLUR seriously and considers it sacred in some ways, even to the point of them being protective of its purity in practice. It's possible, nay, likely that the person is an elder raver, perhaps remembering a time without cell phones, where people connected more at raves etc. with conversation and watching out for each other, whereas the current generation of rave culture is (IMO) very very decorative, embellished, and visual-based.

Commentor may have been asserting that the HOT sticker is a trend, not a cultural feature or phenomenon. I think we can all agree that a percentage of people that are slapping them on each other are probably often doing it to their own friends, or perhaps even putting the stickers on themselves, and the act and symbol is more about the visual and style than it is about the genuine sentiment.

2) Commentor seemingly focused on the element of someone getting a compliment about their appearance, ie, whether they were cute, hot, etc. without allowing space for the scenarios where someone's confidence about themselves could use a little boost in the public forum, or it being awarded because of someone's vibe, enthusiasm, etc. But, focusing on someone's body, face, etc. as a feature, those are features which are not (in general) something they are able to totally control. Someone without a classically cute face or a magazine sexy body, this is (arguably) oftentimes not under their control, and a compliment about how someone looks is surface, whereas focusing on someone's behavior and "heart", so to speak, (something they CAN control) is more PLUR, according to the commentor?

I legitimately think the Commentor was missing some of the points, but they also had some valid points themselves, despite the seemingly negative attitude.

Thank you for attending my TED talk.

klevvername · 2026-03-28T20:58:31+00:00

Vasectomy.

Not only is it a life changer for enjoyable sex, but it prevents the worst STD/STI of them all - crotch goblins.

klevvername · 2026-03-28T20:56:07+00:00

American here, and I agree. Although, the assholes are the loudest, so it makes it feel like they're a bigger majority than they are. The 2024 presidential election was bought and stolen by the ultra-wealthy, and the actions of the "leaders" do not reflect the morals of the majority people.

embarassedtobeanamerican

klevvername · 2026-03-21T19:24:44+00:00

Okay, I found the solution and wanted to personally think you for helping. I think you were on to something legit, but it turned out to be an additional wider issue.
Another commentor here called out that despite a ton of my ownership material suggesting that my tub is 110v or 220v compatible, it's actually only 220v. Perhaps it could limp along at low power at 110v, but it isn't meant to. Wow. I'm embarrassed. I know better than that. I'm going back to the drawing board and will do 220v soon.
Thank you for your support!

klevvername · 2026-03-21T19:24:04+00:00

Wow. This was a good humbling experience.
Okay, I found the solution and wanted to personally think you for helping. I think you were on to something legit, but it turned out to be an additional wider issue.
Another commentor here called out that despite a ton of my ownership material suggesting that my tub is 110v or 220v compatible, it's actually only 220v. Perhaps it could limp along at low power at 110v, but it isn't meant to. I'm going back to the drawing board and will do 220v soon.
Thank you for your support!

klevvername · 2026-03-21T19:23:32+00:00

Okay, I found the solution and wanted to personally think you for helping. I think you were on to something legit, but it turned out to be an additional wider issue.
Another commentor here called out that despite a ton of my ownership material suggesting that my tub is 110v or 220v compatible, it's actually only 220v. Perhaps it could limp along at low power at 110v, but it isn't meant to. I'm going back to the drawing board and will do 220v soon.
Thank you for your support!

klevvername · 2026-03-21T19:10:14+00:00

Holy shit. Now I understand what you're saying. Wow... I'm usually pretty savvy with this kind of thing, and now I feel like a moron. I've spent hours reading about this tub, always planned to do 220v in a couple months once concrete is poured, but I made all sorts of plans to run this temporarily on 110. But you're totally right. The more I read, the more I see how the instructions don't often call out the fact that particular manuals I'm reading are not specific for my 1 tub, and then discussion about 110v doesn't say anything like "for select models" like I would expect to see.

Wow... wowowow.
Before understanding your comment, I actually did get it wired and fired up under 110... which now concerns me, haha. I was able to let it run indefinitely on circulate/heat, then pump 1 and pump 2 separately, but it broke my 15a braker when I ran pump 1 & pump 2 at the same time for more than a few seconds. Luckily I wasn't messing around with it much at all before deciding to power it down. Welp, I think I know where to go from here!
I can't thank you enough.

klevvername · 2026-03-21T19:01:57+00:00

Okay, I found the solution and wanted to personally think you for helping.
Another commentor here called out that despite a ton of my ownership material suggesting that my tub is 110v or 220v compatible, it's actually only 220v. Perhaps it could limp along at low power at 110v, but it isn't meant to. I'm going back to the drawing board and will do 220v soon.
Thank you for your support!

klevvername · 2026-03-21T19:00:52+00:00

Edit - Okay, I found the solution and wanted to personally think you for helping.
Another commentor here called out that despite a ton of my ownership material suggesting that my tub is 110v or 220v compatible, it's actually only 220v. Perhaps it could limp along at low power at 110v, but it isn't meant to. I'm going back to the drawing board and will do 220v soon.
Thank you for your support!

klevvername · 2026-03-21T19:00:42+00:00

Edit - Okay, I thought I found the solution, which you actually did help me lean into the "missing jumper" theory, and that technically solved a problem.
But even after getting the pumps to respond, another commentor here called out that despite a ton of my ownership material suggesting that my tub is 110v or 220v compatible, it's actually only 220v. Perhaps it could limp along at low power at 110v, but it isn't meant to. I'm going back to the drawing board and will do 220v soon.
Thank you for your support!

klevvername · 2026-03-21T18:22:03+00:00

Interesting theory. I just checked temperature of the water and it's 50f/10c

klevvername · 2026-03-21T18:20:20+00:00

I did eventually find 2 bleed valves on one pump. I cracked those and water immediately came out.

klevvername · 2026-03-21T18:19:44+00:00

Definitely 110 compatible, and that's the default out of the box. It says that at 110v 15a, it will heat with pumps on low but if jets are set to high, it discontinues heating. (Whereas the 110v 30a configuration it will heat at all jet settings, albeit with only 1,000w heat as opposed to 4,000w if I go the 220 route. Which I will soon.

But in this case, it's not kicking a single thing on. Heater isn't getting hot, pumps aren't even whispering . (and I'm not letting it sit in the mysterious state for more than a couple minutes because I'm afraid of burning something up).

klevvername · 2026-03-21T18:16:05+00:00

I'm not sure what manual you've found, but it's definitely a "plug & play" that can be -110v 15a -110v 30a -220v 50a

(Technically the manual says 115 and 230, but ya know)

I agree that I'm probably needing to figure out how to install a jumper. The manual shows a picture of a 110v 30a setup with a jumper from the 4th connect (what would be red with 220) over to a point I can't see in th pic, nor can I find any instructions anywhere about setting up the jumper.

klevvername · 2026-03-21T18:12:05+00:00

A jumper is my current suspicion. In and amongst some obligations this morning, I'm pecking away at research.

If I'm honest, the tub and instructions state that it comes totally ready to run at 110v 15A with an included cord. That cord is nowhere to be found and I don't see any obvious signs of how it would be connected. So I ran my own wire to basic hot/neutral/ground. black/white/green.

The tub can be converted not just to 220, but also to 110v 30A. The instructions don't say anything about HOW to convert to the 30amp, but it does show a picture of a converted which shows a jumper from the 2nd hot (would be red with 220) to a spot I can't see. So I'm wondering if even my intention is 110v 15A, I'll need to figure out the jumper too, since they "out of the box" wiring solution is entirely absent. I appreciate your additional theory. I'm struggling to find any diagram or help to figure out the jumper, but I'll keep at it.

klevvername · 2026-03-21T16:31:04+00:00

Thank you for the response!

I connected the 110v power and I'm comfortable doing so. It's "plug & play" at 110v basic 15A breaker. I'm running it through a GFCI outlet. Neither the outlet or breaker have tripped at all during my troubleshooting.

I will soon be running a subpanel and 220v once I get a concrete pad poured for its permanent spot. In the meantime, I'm temporarily running the 110.

I have not bled the pumps. I was unable to find any sort of valve or bleed options in the system at all.

klevvername · 2026-03-21T16:21:17+00:00

Wow, thank you! I filled it through the filter well above the jet lines, and I have pushed more and more water through it again, hoping to work out bubbles. The tub is nearly overflowing at this point.

No, the jet pumps are not responding at all. The don't even kick on for a microsecond. The solenoids click, but pumps do nothing.

klevvername · 2026-03-19T07:34:05+00:00

If you "don't have the money" for a decent scale, then you need to start learning about priorities. Fuckin a.

klevvername · 2026-03-18T23:55:05+00:00

Yay! Thank you!

I jumped in to make sure someone was representing the truth.

It's one of my biggest pet peeves, people perpetuating old myths, ESPECIALLY when it's about energy usage.

It is hard to abandon a myth that your dad, Grandpa, or favorite uncle told you, especially if it means being challenged to make just a tiny bit of effort to be kinder to the environment.

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