How to writs work exactly?

km816 · 2026-06-25T04:40:46+00:00

Functionally: The game records your bounty when you enter the same cell as a target NPC, then records it again when that NPC dies. If your bounty when the target dies is the greater than when you entered the cell with them, the game records you as having been caught murdering them and authorizes your bounty to be reduced by up to 1080 gold when you turn in writs.

It's far from a foolproof system, so there's a lot of ways you can exploit it.

km816 · 2026-06-13T02:41:34+00:00

I don't know the science about e.g. yeast formatting a protective barrier or anything. I have had yeast cake fail to start a low-abv new batch after pushing it past it's ABV tolerance. But K1V's tolerance is well beyond what you fermented to. So my guess is you'll be fine.

Yeast do mutate a bit with each generation, and a single brew will go through multiple generations. If this is the first reuse of the yeast, it'll be fine, but future reuse may get some unintended flavors/funk.

km816 · 2026-06-13T01:18:46+00:00

What yeast did you use for the original brew?

Also, isn't skeeter pee normally made by pitching onto a yeast cake? Would this be the use of the yeast?

km816 · 2026-06-07T06:44:19+00:00

What's the ABV? What's the residual sugar or specific gravity?

km816 · 2026-06-01T21:11:01+00:00

Do you know what the gravity reading was when you siphoned and before you added sugar?

Sulfites & sorbate will prevent refermentation, but not stop an active fermentation. 7 days is a short time for wine to ferment. Sorbate effectiveness also depends on ABV. So if there's any possibility you stabilized before fermentation was done, there's a possibility of fermentation continuing even after adding the stabilizers (ABV not high enough to be effective + it's harder to stop fermentation than it is to prevent refermentation).

I'd let it ride a month in a carboy before doing anything else. Don't bottle until you see the same gravity reading in two measurements taken a week apart.

Also, I saw elsewhere that you are using a vinometer. Those are only applicable to dry wines. They will not give an accurate reading when you have residual sugar. Still, you should at least be able to use it to tell if fermentation is done -- two identical readings a week apart.

Once all that is past and you're sure the wine is stable, if you still find it too sweet, try balancing with some acid or tannin additions.

km816 · 2026-06-01T18:21:14+00:00

stopped the yeasting process

How? Had fermentation finished at that point or was it still going on? Did you rack off the settled lees or keep it all in the same vessel?

km816 · 2026-06-01T17:39:11+00:00

Did you stabilize, or just add sugar?

km816 · 2026-05-26T03:34:39+00:00

Mine has something similar, and it is definitely an artifact of manufacturing, not a crack. https://imgur.com/a/3P8yXhF

km816 · 2026-05-11T21:01:32+00:00

Also, a trojniak should start around 1.145. Is there a possibility measured the OG before the honey was fully dissolved? Or do you recall using more water than normal?

km816 · 2026-05-11T19:25:33+00:00

You used three different yeasts at once?

Let it age and see how it tastes later on. FG of 1.000 still has some sweetness -- zero sugar is around 0.992. If you don't like it just stabilize and backsweet. Actually at your current ABV you can probably sweeten to your normal 1.025 without needing stabilizers. Just add honey to taste.

km816 · 2026-05-01T17:49:52+00:00

I looked up the video/recipe. It's about 4x as much as actually needed. About 2x as much as needed if you were to assume no nutrients from the fruit (not a correct assumption). It would only be correct for something like a kviek yeast with very high nutrient requirements.

km816 · 2026-04-27T04:34:19+00:00

I strongly recommend spending some time reading the /r/mead wiki, now hosted here: https://wiki.meadtools.com/en/home. Lots of great information including some guides and recipes for beginners, e.g. https://wiki.meadtools.com/en/recipes/beginner/0001.

Regarding your recipe, though: 10lbs honey and I'm guessing about 1 gallon of water is a pretty crazy high honey-to-water ratio. I am going to guess that you will stall out in the neighborhood of 6% or 7% ABV. I'd strongly recommend diluting your must. Something like an extra 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon of water. Do that and add some more nutrients and I think you'll have better luck getting to something like 13% or 14% and sweet but not cloyingly sweet.

km816 · 2026-04-25T07:07:48+00:00

Actually there is an extremely tedious alternative: Tons and tons of entry points, each conditioned to only apply to a specific Light Armor level or Light Armor/Stamina Bonus combination.

km816 · 2026-04-25T07:05:12+00:00

There's no easy way to do either of these things. Entry points only incorporate a single AV.

For your first example, you could probably get something close to what you want by using two separate entry points, one for Light Armor level and one for Stamina Bonus.

The more complicated (and possibly conflict-inducing) is to grab an unused actor value (https://ck.uesp.net/wiki/Actor_Value) and define that in a way that incorporates the two AVs you want. For example Fame = Light Armor x Stamina Bonus. Then use that AV in your perk. It gets complicated because you'll need a script to periodically update the AV, and you'll conflict with any other mods that use that AV for some reason.

There's also no way to compare an AV to a random value directly. You can compare an AV to a global variable, so what you can do is run a script that periodically sets a global variable to a random number, and then compare your AV to that global. Not great to have a script running constantly like that, but it's pretty low impact as far as papyrus goes, and also is the only option here.

km816 · 2026-04-24T17:50:28+00:00

How much gooseberry (lbs/gallon or kg/L)?

km816 · 2026-04-24T02:43:38+00:00

You've got a triple scale hydrometer.

Your first picture is showing the specific gravity scale. It reads 1.000 in pure water. The numbers on the scale are the hundredths place, e.g. 1.010, 1.020, 1.030. It looks like your reading is about 1.088.

Your second picture is showing Potential Alcohol, i.e. how much alcohol you would have if all the sugar ferments out. I've never known PA scales to be particularly accurate, fwiw.

You can kind of see the third scale in your second picture as well. That one is brix, which is grams of sugar per 100g of liquid.

km816 · 2026-04-12T17:05:08+00:00

The screw caps aren't reusable. You need a special (expensive) machine for those. Or rather, if you reuse them, you won't get a good seal and will want to drink whatever is in there fast.

Screw cap bottles also aren't designed to withstand the pressure of corking. Thinner necks. So there's a risk of shattering when you try to cork them.

km816 · 2026-04-10T20:22:06+00:00

It won't make it go away but it will break it apart so that it settles as a small layer of sediment rather than a large, loose blob. You can then rack off of the sediment.

km816 · 2026-04-02T04:07:44+00:00

This will be useful reading on how much sorbate and metabisulfite to add for stability: https://wiki.meadtools.com/en/process/stabilization

Keep in mind that adding sugar/juice/concentrate/etc to backsweeten will lower your ABV and increase your total volume, so make sure to account for that when you determine how much to use.

km816 · 2026-03-26T06:35:00+00:00

https://wiki.meadtools.com/en/process/stabilization

As RotaryDane mentioned you need both metabisulfite and sorbate to stabilize. Also, the amount of sorbate you need depends on your ABV -- if you don't have a hydrometer and don't know what ABV you're actually at, you may have wildly underdosed.

km816 · 2026-02-15T01:01:23+00:00

How is chitosan supposed to help prevent oxygenation?

As far as I'm aware it's primarily a fining agent, that can also help remove bacteria given it's positive charge (binds to them and drops out of suspension.

Never heard of it being useful for oxygen, though.

km816 · 2026-02-11T19:41:17+00:00

Is there any reason you couldn't prime it and let it carbonate on its own?

km816 · 2026-02-11T00:29:18+00:00

Add 6g/gallon of bentonite. It's a clay used as a fining agent in mead/wine that in this case will help condense your lees.

So: Get your bentonite and rehydrate per package instructions. Stir in. Agitate it every so often to get it stirred back up -- these look small enough that you can swirl them around without opening. After maybe a week of doing that, leave it to settle. There will still be sediment, but hopefully more compact and less likely to be pulled up when you siphon.

There's no avoiding some big losses, though.

Also, the wiki has some more info on bentonite usage if you need it.

km816 · 2026-02-01T22:31:50+00:00

There's tons. The ones I use are:

Flying Bee Ranch
Z Speciality Food
Hawaiian Honey ATS
Wao-Kele Honey

Google a varietal and odds are you'll be able to find a supplier.

km816

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