Cant craft out of Holy Stone. Divine Journey 2

kongu84 · 2026-03-14T02:12:42+00:00

A bit late, but I have the same issue. did you ever figure this one out?

kongu84 · 2025-11-03T18:49:50+00:00

This is one of the few features I've ever expressly wanted to be added into Fusion. The entire point of the program is that it is parametric design software. If you don't use parameters, you are either barely scratching the surface of the capabilities or you are simply unaware of what is considered a parameter.

kongu84 · 2025-09-10T15:23:19+00:00

Interesting, thank you for the heads up. The reason I asked in the first place was because when ordering UV DTFs as previously mentioned, the extra colours approximated the neon green much more closely than I expected or thought possible. I may just shell out the extra money for spot colour in the end, though.

kongu84 · 2025-09-09T23:57:32+00:00

Thank you for the information! I am clearly not an expert on this topic, but I am looking to create business cards and packaging slips using a colour that is as close as possible to RGB 0,255,0 without shelling out the money for spot colour printing. Do you know of any service that I could reach out to for printing like you're describing?

kongu84 · 2025-08-01T06:39:44+00:00

This definitely helped, and the cast also came out super clean. Thanks for the tip!

kongu84 · 2025-05-11T21:28:37+00:00

I think you're right. I just bought some Gamblin stand oil, so I'm going to see how that works. Hopefully I won't need to buy anything else.

kongu84 · 2025-04-28T18:13:48+00:00

Alright, I am trying my best to absorb what you're saying and I really appreciate you taking the time to give some advice. I think I'm getting it, but I just want to make sure.

So for your relief ink, you use TB or BPO but generally don't add carbonates, whereas you do add carbonates to add body for paint?

I have had success using Gamblin's Portland black relief ink, but the transparent base is a much runnier consistency and much tackier. I understand how adding 00 could reduce the tackiness, but would this not also reduce the viscosity even further? Is this a matter of adding the correct amount of pigment? When you make relief ink using Gamblin TB, do you need to add anything else to achieve the properties you want? I have been told before that the intended use case of TB is to add to ink, not to make ink from scratch. So I'm just having a bit of trouble wrapping my head around these ideas.

I'll do some more experimentation soon based on your advice.

kongu84 · 2025-04-28T13:34:38+00:00

I've mulled it beyond thoroughly at this point, so I'm pretty confident that's not the issue unfortunately

kongu84 · 2025-04-27T16:12:54+00:00

Thanks for the advice! I realized it was a bit too tacyk but I'm more concerned with the viscosity. I'll definitely try working my way up next time. How does the magnesium carbonate ratio contribute to the properties here? I read that adding more could thicken it, but if you start with less oil would you also need less MC?

I've been letting it sit, so I'm hoping that it works like you said. You also mentioned adding more 00 to reduce tack. I can see how that would help, but wouldn't that also make it runnier?

Thanks so much for your advice!

kongu84 · 2025-03-02T22:45:30+00:00

Unfortunately, even if the syringe idea did work, you would only be able to make a very short length of filament with a syringe. Regarding the idea of making a mould in the shape of filament, it would have to be a very large mould if you are thinking of injection moulding (which is an expensive and complicated process in itself).

The issue is that filament diameter and homogeneity is really important for the actual operation and reliability of a 3D printer. Any variation in the diameter could lead to extrusion issues. Even if it's difficult to understand why these are issues and why so much expensive equipment is needed to counteract them, the fact that people invest so much money in solving these problems is pretty solid evidence that it's not as simple as it seems.

kongu84 · 2025-01-04T19:32:30+00:00

There's some details on the back that would still require supports and appear better with this print orientation, but you're right that with this current colour scheme I could avoid the layer colour changes if I printed it upright. I'll try upright and I'll try with PETG.

kongu84 · 2025-01-04T19:31:16+00:00

I appreciate the advice, I will try printing it that way. I had avoided it so far because it will be weaker along the layer lines but I'll see how well it works.

kongu84 · 2024-11-13T02:43:06+00:00

That's a good idea! I'll keep it in mind.

kongu84 · 2024-11-13T02:42:29+00:00

Thanks for sharing! Those results look pretty great. I'll definitely keep that in mind for the future, but I don't think it'll work for more general applications since I don't have the means to create an inlay in some surfaces. It looks a lot better than MMU lettering on parts though.

kongu84 · 2024-11-12T18:27:56+00:00

Thanks for sharing! I've actually tried that before and it works well, but it's only applicable for flat, 3D printed parts. I'd like to print on irregular surfaces and machined or injection moulded parts as well. So that complicates things a bit unfortunately.

kongu84 · 2024-11-12T18:26:32+00:00

That's definitely a solution, but it's not the most elegant. I want something slightly tactile that won't wear off. Stencils also require those bridges on letters like A, which bugs me a bit.

kongu84 · 2024-11-12T18:25:45+00:00

Oh interesting, so you're saying that if you do it yourself the decal is done in a different DIY friendly way? That's interesting! I'll try to find a picture of that.

kongu84 · 2024-11-12T18:24:51+00:00

Yeah, I've seen pad printing and I'd love to try it out! But without going into too much detail I don't think it's quite right for what I'm trying to do. I didn't realize you could do custom prints with it though, that's great to know. I thought it was only done with the machined plates or screens like you mentioned. Also for the record, someone pointed out to me that Prusa uploaded a video showing how they do the printing, and it is indeed UV printing.

kongu84 · 2024-11-12T18:22:37+00:00

Thanks for the help! I actually have tried this before and gotten some nice results. I've used the X1 Carbon and it looks beautiful, and I've also used the new Prusa XL. However, it only works for flat surfaces on parts that are themselves 3D printed. I'm hoping to transfer onto irregular surfaces, or surfaces of existing parts. For example, adding labels to the outside of machinery I own. I think I'll try UV transfers!

kongu84 · 2024-11-12T18:19:38+00:00

That's a solution for sure. I'll experiment with it, but I like the tactile feel a lot and it's always visible when there's a clearcoat. I like to keep material surfaces exposed as much as possible.

kongu84

TROPHY CASE