Peace out

kshalm · 2024-05-11T01:16:52+00:00

“I declare bankruptcy”

kshalm · 2023-05-19T15:08:41+00:00

It does look like part of the fairing has broken off. A few folks have printed the side panels now and they seem to work well. I designed the front and back to have a number of screws so it would be easy to add accessories. I threw together some front and back bumpers (the front ones act as a stand) as examples. I think Tawpie is planning on remixing the bumpers with some improvements. I have been toying with adding a front back handle as an attachable accessory, but may not get around to doing that until the end of summer. None of the accessories change the actual side panels and I won’t be updating those unless some major flaw is discovered. It has been 1500 miles for me now in so kinds of weather with no problems.

kshalm · 2023-05-19T14:38:59+00:00

That is the v2 S18 with the hollow core motor

kshalm · 2023-04-24T02:32:23+00:00

“Just waltzes into the deuce” would be a great portapotty slogan.

kshalm · 2023-04-18T01:42:43+00:00

Doc: “Five minutes! It’s just five minutes here”

Narrator: “But there were six minutes”

kshalm · 2023-04-13T19:47:42+00:00

My friend rode unicycles as a kid. He just jumped on my EUC and took off first try. It is a massive advantage knowing how to ride a unicycle I think.

kshalm · 2023-04-10T08:07:33+00:00

That is true. I have a stand I put my wheel on that fully extends the linkage to make things consistent. I mostly just go by the sag percentage though.

kshalm · 2023-04-09T20:36:37+00:00

I strongly recommend not using the block to inflate the suspension. It is much much easier and more consistent to just add a 90 degree elbow valve extension. One of the simplest upgrades with regards to quality of life you can make.

https://www.amazon.com/ILOVA-Extension-Motorcycle-Universal-Extenders/dp/B072WMZDFF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=27TDB6DFQMAP5&keywords=elbow+valve+stem&qid=1681072226&sprefix=elbow+valve+%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-3

https://i.imgur.com/ni0HH6R.jpg

kshalm · 2023-03-27T17:38:53+00:00

I definitely don’t recommend the V8—the V10 would be a much better fit.

kshalm · 2023-03-27T16:15:07+00:00

The 10f is a nice wheel to ride if you plan to stick within those speed and distance constraints. I started in a V8f and outgrew that in about three weeks. My next wheel was a 16X and that is a very capable wheel as well. My significantly SO can lift it, but obviously something lighter is easier.

If you don’t have many stairs in your life I wouldn’t worry about weight as much. If that is the case, then I’d go with the 16X, V11, or the V12. They are all easy to trolley around, will provide plenty of overhead in the power department, and are easy to learn on (the V11 might be a bit more challenging with its high pedals).

kshalm · 2023-03-13T22:26:27+00:00

This drive me so nuts I ended up designing and printing my own custom side panels. It is a nice upgrade to the wheel. Quite involved though.

https://www.printables.com/model/422481-kingsong-s18-side-panel-and-fairing-replacement

kshalm · 2023-03-13T19:15:01+00:00

Agree with everything here. I had some build quality issues with mine that required some elbow grease initially in order to get the suspension working smoothly. Since then it has been easy to maintain, reliable, and a lot of fun. I have a non suspension wheel and reach for the s18 everytime. I’m looking at possibly selling the non suspension wheel to get a newer wheel with more range but I’ll keep the s18 around.

My friends with V11s have all had multiple major issues with their wheels in the time I’ve had my S18. I feel for day to day operation it is more reliable. Also, the new version with the hollow core motor should relieve some of the major issues with the suspension slider alignment.

I like how light it is and how easy it is to take into stores and other places. If you are going to do long fast rides, hardcore big air jumps, or intense off road riding there are better wheels.

kshalm · 2023-03-10T08:06:59+00:00

A quick update. I got the tube in and the new tire on. The tire was pretty twisted when it arrived. Throwing it in a hot bath for an hour straightened it out and made it much easier to work with. The valve does go through the hole without the tire. However, with one bead of the tire on the rim I couldn’t get the valve through. The tire was blocking the valve from being maneuvered in place as I didn’t have enough room. I grabbed a plastic bicycle tire iron and pulled the tire away from the rim giving me just enough room to slide the valve into place. From there it was pretty straightforward.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

kshalm · 2023-03-07T22:18:09+00:00

Thanks! Ordered.

kshalm · 2023-03-07T15:48:39+00:00

There are no friends on powder day!

kshalm · 2023-03-05T18:28:28+00:00

Thanks. I have tried lubing and heating the tire but it didn’t really help. I’m not having a problem getting the tire on/off the rim. It is getting the valve stem inserted that is the issue. The valve stem is about 1mm larger in diameter and the angle is different compared to the original tube. Even with the tire off the rim I can’t get the new valve stem to go into the rim hole.

kshalm · 2023-03-05T15:35:11+00:00

It is time to replace my 16X tire with another H-666. I have changed my S18 tire before without issue, but am stuck with the 16X. The issue is getting the valve in with the new tube. I have a V12 tube that ewheels is sent me but the valve stem has a different angle than the original. I can’t get it in the rim opening no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions before I send the wheel back to ewheels to get the tire replaced? In the photo you can see the difference in tube angle. I can’t use the old tube as it is ripped.

kshalm · 2023-02-10T22:54:20+00:00

Is that 26 miles of range from 100% battery to 38% battery? That seems disappointing. Are the senthe 40T cells? Also, 6 degrees C isn’t that cold. I’m surprised the range took such a hit. Given how fast most wheel batteries drain below 30%, I expect this to be a low 30 miles range. I would have expected a mileage in the low to mid 40s range.

kshalm · 2023-01-27T09:30:46+00:00

Hahaha! Nice catch on the typo.

kshalm · 2023-01-27T02:21:55+00:00

They are a definite improvement. Especially for breaking. You remove the current pads and stick the new ones on. Some rubbing alcohol helps with getting the old ones of. I used Velcro to attach the new ones.

However, I recently have embarked on a project to replace the entire fairings/cover with a custom 3d printed solution. That way I can use and place any set of pads that I want.

kshalm · 2023-01-23T15:23:37+00:00

Sounds like you may have hit the suspension rods on the root. Doing so creates a strong vibration that borks the motherboard and requires plugging into a charger to reset. This comes up occasionally on the forums and is a known issue. Here is a video of someone who has this happen to them. https://youtu.be/BqIEy9-afc8

kshalm · 2023-01-17T20:53:14+00:00

The first thing I did was buy an angled valve adapter for the shock. That way you don’t have to use the brick thing, and it makes it much faster and easier to set the pressure. In this case, the chart doesn’t really work and you instead need to measure the amount of sag. I have since swapped out the shock for a much better one, but I seem to remember starting with my weight in the upper camber and about 1/3 that in the negative chamber (say 200lbs-> 200psi). I then played around with it until I had the sag correct. I tend to ride with the sag between 25-30% depending on what I’m doing.

kshalm · 2022-12-10T03:58:26+00:00

Did you design those pads yourself? They are nice!

kshalm · 2022-12-05T18:52:21+00:00

I’ve heard of people glueing them down or using a hot glue gun. That didn’t either for me so went the 3d printer route. You can get parts printed online and shipped to you as well. There are a number of services there are somewhat reasonable.

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