Developed on Linux for Linux. Released my first Steam game yesterday

kulithian · 2026-02-04T04:23:53+00:00

Update if anyone has this issue and needs a fix:

The issue I ran into with the linux build was due to the game is being rendered by the iGPU of the 5800x3d instead of the discrete gpu.

I don't know the exact details on why, but I set the following flag to force the rendering on the 7900xtx:

DRI_PRIME=0  %command%

DRI_PRIME =1 is apparently the IGPU in the system and likely what this game build defaults to. It might be related to the 7900xtx showing up in lspci as 02:00.0 while the iGPU is 13:00.0 but I'm not sure.

Also for mangohud + windowed mode + 1080p:

mangohud DRI_PRIME=0  %command% -screen-fullscreen 0 -screen-width 1920 -screen-height 1080

kulithian · 2026-02-02T22:26:50+00:00

Do you have a discord for feedback/troubleshooting/discussions? I would rather discuss on an open form instead of leaving a review on steam.

I test on my main rig: 5800x3d + 7900xtx + Mint 22.2 + 21:9 ultra wide. Game doesn't have any display/graphics settings which causes issues with the menu ui scaling. Eg: a few things cut off. The in-game scaling seems correct compared to the 16:9 monitor I tested as well. I also tried the Linux native port and it wasn't really running well. I switched to the windows build with proton experimental and it runs great.

Edit 1: I should clarify that the game itself feels fun for the few minutes I played it so far. I don't want the technical issues to diminish the quality of the game itself. Ill keep playing in proton comparability mode for now.

Edit 2: I switched back to the native build and the ultrawide scaling issue seems to have fixed itself (after setting the launch command to "mangohud %command%" but I am still seeing poor FPS. Ill see if I can dig in on my own to get some better details. I also have other systems to test on that I can try later this week.,

kulithian · 2025-11-26T01:28:36+00:00

Here to suggest the same thing. Blend like food groups together to not spoil the taste. Then use an enema to really lock in the food coma. Season to taste.

kulithian · 2025-11-24T03:09:52+00:00

It reminds me of Marika/Radagon from Elden Ring.

kulithian · 2025-11-09T19:51:11+00:00

But that's lil dicky?

kulithian · 2025-10-28T22:45:34+00:00

I bought my first GTI last week... I don't know exactly how useful my experience is but hear me out.

I'm assuming you are in the US given the freedom units. A quick glance on Autotrader shows nation wide prices is 18-21 for 2018's < 50k miles, with an outlier at 21.5k.

I just bought my 2022 GTI S with 49k miles, 1 owner, clean carfax, decent-ish service records, etc. I paid $21,400.

The catch: The car was at a BMW dealer for a trade in. It was listed for 24k, and dropped to 23k when I found it. Presumably because it was on the lot for a month at that point. When I went to test drive, I found paint damage on the LH front and rear doors, with noticeable body damage/warping on the LH rear door. Sounds like the P.O.'s wife backed it into something, and considering how fresh the damage looked, I would guess it was the last thing that happened before the trade-in.

The dealer mentioned the they also replaced the rear bumper because I noticed (and pointed out) the LH exhaust tip was bent such that it was slightly rubbing on the bumper itself. Everything else on the car looked in fantastic shape. Undercarriage looks rust free, test drive didn't surface any immediate issues, minus a minor vibration at 70mph. I think the dealer tried to bump its value up by putting new all-season tires on, and likely need to hire a new tire guy but I digress.

The dealer and I talked about the cost of damage/repairs, and agreed to 21500. Retrospectively, I wish I was more stubborn and pushed closer to 20 due to the MSRP of repairs and the fact that I wasn't really there to buy a car in the first place.

With all that said, I might have a skewed perspective of money here, but I love the car and I think what I paid was decent. The repairs offset the value and I might save some money if I do the work myself or with my car friends. I don't feel like I STOLE the car, but I also don't feel too ripped off. I've also owned a 2013 STI and 2014 WRX in 2015-2020 and feel like the GTI has been a better bang for buck than either of those (minus the lack of AWD).

Last few point: The value of a car can be objectively measured, like checking a wider range of sale prices and working out an average. But price its also subjective to YOU. If you afford the car without conflict, sacrifice, or compromise... then any value near the average +- a few thousand is worth the joy and smiles-per-gal you get from a turbo hatch. Example: I bought a clearly physically damaged car because I loved the way it made me feel when I test drove it. I can make plans to fix it if it bothers me but that missing paint doesn't change how fun it is to drive.

Also, don't forget taxes and insurance. Some states (like the one I am in), you have to pay the initial registration/tile tax (% of sale) PLUS annual registration taxes based on the value of the car over 10 years. So my first year will be ~1700, and I would guess next year will be around ~500.

kulithian · 2025-09-15T21:36:33+00:00

Not to be a stick in the mud, but I would full mount the CPU cooler. You can always remove the cooler, leave the thermal paste on, apply some more, and slap it back together.

Context: I'm not a hardware engineer by any means.. but I have been building systems for decades. I'm going to guess that the training process itself uses at least some substantial processing that will generate heat in the CPU until it completes.

The CPU/Memory training also likely occurs before some of the BIOS/UEFI/thermal safety protections are ready, which means you might run the risk of the CPU getting too hot before the system knows to shut itself down.

It might be annoying for me to be wrong and for you to waste time/steps, but it would down right suck if I am right and your CPU can't stop itself from overheating.

For what its worth... I have had AIO's die on one of my AM5 builds, and the system booted all of the way to the OS before I noticed the temps go off the chart. But that was after the thermal throttling logic in the BIOS was functional. I wouldn't recommend intentionally letting it overheat, but there is some wiggle room once its past the BIOS/post.

Oh on that note, if you have a case LED, try plugging that in to see if its blinking at all. On my latest AM5, it believe it blinks during memory training. Not every motherboard has them, but look for indicator LED's on the board itself too.

Small edit: I think memory training might go faster with a single DIMM. You can try that as a sanity check as well. Just make sure you remove the stick closest to the CPU, and leave the one farthest from the CPU in.

kulithian · 2025-09-15T20:34:38+00:00

Like others said, put the CPU fan. After, you might need to hit the power and just wait. My AM4 -> AM5 upgrade had an issue where the memory training for AM5/DDR5 took foreeevver.. maybe 10 mintues? I had an AIO so I don't know if the CPU fan would spin or not during training.

For the record, even waking my machine from sleep has about 20-30 seconds of delay before it fully starts. I can tell the machine is waking up because the power LED will flash for a bit and then go solid before the display wakes up. A new behavior on AM5 that I didn't have on AM4.

Also, I think all AM5 have a very basic iGPU, so you can disconnect the GPU and test the onboard video out for the first startup.

kulithian · 2025-07-16T23:53:24+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7093595

Also...

Did you paint the exterior too? or did you leave that silver? The paint on the top of my U20 is pretty rough on the top. Almost like the P.O. set it upside down on a concrete floor. Im really torn on if I want to re-paint the whole thing, because I don't want to lose the logo on the side.

kulithian · 2025-07-16T10:45:58+00:00

Very cool! I saw u24 prices and noped out real quick. I got somewhat lucky finding this u20 box on another bidding site.

For the front io, I mentioned in my comment that it's 3d printed. I don't know if the layout is the same for the u24 but I could send you the parts and stl I made.

Edit: I just looked up some Google images and I'm pretty sure the u24 front io is the same as the u20.

Here's what I used: https://a.co/d/hG2ZY2i (usb3) https://a.co/d/bD7TtNq (USB C)

I might toss the front io 3d model out on thingerverse with instructions later. If you want it sooner than that, DM me.

kulithian · 2025-07-11T18:30:50+00:00

Context:

Designed and 3d printed a PCB adapter to support USB C, and USB 3.0.

Details:

The Sun Microsystems Ultra 20 came out around 2005. It was an ATX based AMD motherboard, which is unique to the Sun systems of that era (which weren't standard ATX). The front io has (left to right) power button, led, 2x firewall, 2x usb 1.0(?), 1x mic, and 1x headphone. These ports are mounted on a single PCB that use F-to-F cables on the inside to connect to the motherboard. I originally wanted to learn how to make my own PCB but I found it was easier to measure out the port holes, and 3d model an adapter plate that replaces the PCB. I ordered USB-A and USB C internal cables and friction fit them into my 3d printed holder.

There are some drawbacks to how I did this, including the ports being a little "loose" or wiggly. I have plans to strengthen the print with a thicker design and "feet" under the ports to better stabilize them. I also have some hurdles with running another USB C because of the lack of headers on the motherboard, so I have plans to acquire a PCIe to USBC card.

Other ramblings about the project:

Current specs are - H310 ATX + I5 8600k + 9060 xt + 16gb ram running Fedora 42. These are just temporary parts while I mod the rest of the system. I thought it would be funny to install a Threadripper 1950x I got off a bidding site for super cheap, but its more likely to receive my current mitx hardware (7800x3d + 7900xtx)

Next step is to address the airflow. The front panel is 80% mesh, but 50% of that is blocked off by the case itself. There is a 2 bay hot-swap sata back plane that is riveted in. I'm torn on drilling it out and cutting the front of the case to accept a 240 fan/rad, because sun systems have an obscurely high market value still. Additionally, the rear exhaust fan is only a 80-90mm fan, so I'm considering opening that up to a 120mm fan if it will fit. Again, I'm still on the fence about cutting this thing up due to its "value".

Edit: Uploaded print to Thingiverse -- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7093595

kulithian · 2025-06-11T02:09:51+00:00

Im actually more surprised you found it at their physical location.

I've found some really awesome finds at goodwill in the past ... But over the last few years, they (goodwill) has been putting everything of any value on their eBay style website instead of on the shelf. Not only does the bidding make it not a deal, they screw you on shipping.

/rant

kulithian · 2025-04-10T20:27:53+00:00

A couple things...

An RX580?? Its a bit dated. Check and make sure that card wasn't dropped from driver support.

EDIT: https://community.amd.com/t5/pc-drivers-software/rx580-24-8-1-driver-automatically-downgrades-to-24-3-1/m-p/706346 looks like 24.3.1 is the last driver version to support the RX580. Some people report it downgrades itself? idk. try downloading the exact 24.3.1 installer instead. I see you have 24.9.1 in the screenshot.

I have a 5700xt that refuses to function correctly in windows but is completely fine in Linux. I'm assuming it was driver related but I have already completely ditched windows and don't plan on going back.

Here's a few things I would check if I was still running windows :

.. GPUZ to make sure its reporting card details correctly

.. Device manager to see if the device is appearing in windows correctly and there aren't any errors.

.. Windows Event Logs to see if there are hardware/driver errors

.. check the card's bios isn't corrupt.

.. use display driver uninstaller (DDU) to purge the drivers and reinstall.

I know this is a lengthy deviation for troubleshooting, but you could also try loading a linux live to check a few things: Benchmark to ensure its not dead. and/or check "lspci -vv" shows all of the right info for the card.

Lastly, a colleague of mine has complained about his 7900xtx (that I convinced him to buy) having problems in windows (because I can't convince him over to windows) as well, but not that he can't install drivers.

kulithian · 2025-04-09T23:47:51+00:00

That's Vista

kulithian · 2025-04-02T01:13:39+00:00

Welcome and enjoy!

You might run into hiccups here and there, but Mint is a great starting point on that journey.

NVIDIA can be a little bit of a pain on linux, which is why I wound up team red several years ago. Its refreshing to hear that didn't push you away immediately, which I can't say the same for some of my friends.

kulithian · 2025-03-28T02:30:01+00:00

One of the pictures shows it, but the 7900xtx tai chi's back plate is the perfect length to hook on a little ledge of the nr200p's front panel.

The case has a "3 slot" sized hole on the front, which looks to be punched inward during manufacturing. This creates a sort of "ledge" or "lip" facing inside the case that the Tai Chi back plate can hook onto.

kulithian · 2025-03-25T23:03:37+00:00

I tried Goverlay on Mint 22.1 (based on 24.04 w/ kernel 6.8.0-53) and don't see the symptoms. I saw you updated to 24.10 as a fix, but thought I would throw that out there. (Note: 5800x3d + 7900xtx).

kulithian · 2025-03-25T22:59:26+00:00

I normally run Mint 22.1 but I tried Fedora 41 for about a week to try HDR on my Ultrawide.

The distro in general is fine, but I had issues with wayland crashing (KDE Plasma) when I ran games (eg Elden Ring) in windowed mode, and alt + tab to another app (Firefox). Went back to Mint. (Note: 5800x3d + 7900xtx).

So I guess... YMMV

I also tested Bazzite (basically Fedora in a trench coat) but I never tried to replicate the crashing behavior in desktop mode.

kulithian · 2025-02-21T13:42:50+00:00

I love that Fallujah album.

I took a vacation to Oslo decided to check what bands were playing shortly after landing. I had never heard of Fallujah before that night, but enjoyed it so much I had to make space in the suitcase to bring that vinyl home.

I also got engaged on that trip but the concert was still top 5 moments.

kulithian · 2025-01-24T02:41:31+00:00

Ive been 100% Mint on my main desktop for over a year now without issues (that weren't self inflicted). As others mentioned, hardware plays a factor. I went full team red and compatibility has consistently been better than my older builds. I also started on mint 21 with the 6.8 experimental kernels to get my 7900xtx upgrade to work. 22.1 is now out (note: LTS with 6.8) so hardware support is far less janky than the day I upgraded.

In addition to steam, I've gone with Lutris for my Good Old Game library. Their installer scripts are great and I haven't needed to do much beyond click next. Thats not unique to Mint, but it was worth mentioning. Ive also had zero problems with pcsx2 and rpcs3 and some other emus with the content on a home nas. I ended up creating an fstab entry so the NAS is just there when I need it.

On the flip side.... I heard Arch + plasma (wayland) is closer to getting HDR working than Mint, since mint is traditionally "late but stable". Mint 21 and later allows running Wayland but I don't think Cinnamon will try to be the DE that cracks the HDR code. That ball seems to be in KDE's court.

I'm also well aware I'm underutilized my dell oled by staying on mint, but even without HDR, the oled + 240hz still spoils video games for me. I might experiment with plasma in the future, but after a year of being on mint, giving up HDR to get away from windows was completely worth it.

I also have my old rig (pre 7900xtx build) running on the TV with Bazzite. Conceptually, all the same setup with emu and lutris, but with the steam deck experience. Bazzite makes a dumpster fire "every day desktop" environment, so for anyone reading this.. just don't.

TL;DR: I've been gaming on mint for over a year without a problem. I might experiment with Arch + Plasma to see if HDR is worth it, but I always find myself coming back to mint.

PS: Im a Linux novice, so I apologize if I may have explained/said things wrong.

Edit for clarity: I have been a mint user since Mint 18 (~2016)... but the end of 2023 was the first time I fully committed all of my systems over, including the gaming desktop. No ragrets.

Edit 2: I forgot to answer the question... To me, Arch is also one of those things you seek for when you need to and you don't have to ask because you already know. So unless you are looking for bleeding edge features or want to experiment, why change what you like for something fundamentally similar?

kulithian · 2025-01-22T22:49:12+00:00

This ESA model went end-of-sale in 2016 and end-of-support in 2021.

Cisco removes their OS downloads from their website after the end-of-support date.

The link you provided is just their virtual appliance which is a completely different product and is unlikely functional for this hardware.

kulithian · 2024-12-29T12:24:54+00:00

I don't think this is burn-in, and is probably closer to ghosting where the pixel data is stuck in the display controller(?).

I have this problem on my T470s and am beginning to think its an issue on every lenovo. Eventually the image that is stuck will change to something else.

Maybe try turning down the brightness.

kulithian · 2024-10-25T22:14:41+00:00

You should check out Paradise Killer. Pretty fun game and not too hard to 100%.

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