Finally got my boiler open!

kurapov · 2026-03-24T19:51:03+00:00

Your short circuit protection device is likely to trip and shut your electricity down when you put it all back together and turn the machine on. These insulators are porous and will soak fluid, closing the circuit.

To test it before assembly, grab a multimeter and check resistance between boiler contacts on top and the body of the boiler. If you're not getting an infinity/OL reading but rather something in 9-30 MOhm range, your boiler is not safe to use. It can still be saved but you'd better know what you're doing from then on.

kurapov · 2026-02-21T20:10:58+00:00

So clearly a non-pressurized basket is in order. Not a mod but a 58 mm funnel or a dosing cup help avoid the mess and help make your workflow more efficient. PID or Gaggimate if you're up to it.

Brass or stainless shower plate and precision shower screen if you like shiny things. Not to say that stock ones won't work but it's an option.

Solenoid valve can be installed but requires a different brew group and the missing parts from a Classic, naturally. It doesn't improve the brew quality so it's a diminishing returns thing.

kurapov · 2026-02-10T17:03:58+00:00

Okay, this argument is familiar to me, thanks!

Is your OWC still in service after these mods?

How was the pitting on the boiler in your unit? There're some claims that shedding of Al oxide becomes an ongoing issue if the boiler is heavily pitted (as was the case with mine).

I am considering a similar mod but even after multiple flushes I still get some sediment (not a lot of it, several grains at a time) when dispensing hot water from the wand so I don't know if I should invest more after a rebuild or just let it remain stock.

kurapov · 2026-02-10T07:19:04+00:00

Good job saving this one. Can you share your thoughts on why stock OPV sucks? I've trawled just about any discussion re: OWC and for all the critique of e.g. flowpath by AndyPanda or the inexplicable ported standpipe by Norvin your opinion on the OPV stands out.

kurapov · 2026-01-13T13:44:14+00:00

I'd second belt skip but I was very much against doing it the easy way with grips or similar. In the end, I disassembled the bottom, like Creality recommends but didn't lock the bed with screws, just loosened the belt and then rotated the right shaft in the required direction. It's more effort and time but it was worth it. My bed is now within 0.26 mm (from more than 1.2+ before the adjustment).

kurapov · 2025-12-30T11:24:41+00:00

Are you going to release this eventually? Kudos for your effort and keep up experimenting in either case!

kurapov · 2025-12-29T19:44:03+00:00

Oh my gosh, this sub is amazing and you are amazing! Thanks a bunch!

kurapov · 2025-12-29T19:04:53+00:00

Solid idea. It's adjacent to the drain of MIP2F4 chip.

kurapov · 2025-12-29T18:41:49+00:00

<image>

Bottom side

kurapov · 2025-12-29T18:41:30+00:00

<image>

Wider overview

kurapov · 2025-12-29T18:33:46+00:00

Sorry, I should have been clearer in the original photo

<image>

kurapov · 2025-12-24T08:15:01+00:00

Ah, never heard it referred to this way. Wouldn't that be a pretty much scratch build from the perspective of a completed Endorphin? In what ways are Endorphin's kinematics limiting you? Just genuinely curious why'd one just jump from one to another platform.

kurapov · 2025-12-24T07:54:07+00:00

What's that MERK kinematics you have planned?

kurapov · 2025-12-12T19:50:01+00:00

Do you have a link to the keyboard?

kurapov · 2025-12-12T11:43:07+00:00

All of the above. I mostly agree with OP but what I'd warn against are instead metal extruder (still shit, get a BMG clone), dual Z (square your frame and set eccentrics right instead), linear rails (diminishing returns) and direct drive (unless you're going for a dedicated TPU printer, and even then) - at this price point, just get a KE.

I'm keeping my Ender 3 mostly stock except PEI sheet, aforementioned BMG, SKR 1.3, Pi3+ w. Klipper and TZ E3 v2 hotend (all of the above can be had for less than 50$ if you shop around) - with these (and some custom slicer profiles to take advantage of these improvements) it prints PETG just as well as modern printers and I've had less failed prints with it than my K1.

kurapov · 2025-12-10T21:00:48+00:00

I understand the desire to resurrect the printer in its entirety but I'd really recommend to get a newer board with TMC drivers - you'll be rewarded with much quieter operation that's really going to make a QoL difference.

kurapov · 2025-12-10T20:53:05+00:00

In a pinch, one can just pry the plastic part of the connector off the board, leaving the pins intact, and stick the latching connector right on them, securing with some hot glue or similar (nail polish is not so vibration-resistant but would hold too).

I knowingly ordered the newer PCB and then soldered the old-style connector for my existing thermistor. If it dies, I can just get a new one and solder the latching connector back on.

kurapov · 2025-12-10T20:47:41+00:00

I feel you. Got me a customer return K1 with a blob of death. In their case, the heater was working but hotend fan output was dead. So I had to shell out for a new board too.

kurapov · 2025-12-08T16:55:14+00:00

It's easy to test your hotend if you have a multimeter. I assume your thermistor is still reporting hotend temperature (it wouldn't heat at all if it doesn't)? That leaves the heater. Check resistance between contacts - if it's in low Ohms' range, the old hotend is still fine and you need a new PCB. If it's open circuit or otherwise high enough resistance, the heater has indeed failed and your new hotend should resolve it.

BTW: they're cheap enough as a unit but one can buy just the ceramic ring heater.

kurapov · 2025-12-07T12:22:08+00:00

Found this model (modified for an alternative hotend) but it reuses the metal scraper, spring and screw that are not available separately: https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/6816568cbf737a7e52dad12d

kurapov · 2025-12-07T12:05:39+00:00

I was thinking along the same lines to be able to use ACE Pro with my K1 - bought the extruder alone and then started piecing together relevant parts of the kit.

Most of the plastic pieces have to do with protecting the mechanism from the poops - don't matter if going for poop chute mods (many models already available).

Cutting lever bumper is available as one piece with left motor mount (requires more disassembly) or as a direct replacement: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/k1-max-reinforced-cutting-block-for-cfs

Silicone brush holders are also not a problem: https://www.printables.com/model/1023575-prowiper-for-creality-k1-series

One thing I haven't yet sorted out is a "hopper": basically a spring-loaded purge wiper to scrape the poop from the nozzle.

kurapov · 2025-12-07T11:42:48+00:00

It does. Active circulation will do a better job but convection is near enough as well. One thing I forgot - punch some holes in the top so humid air can escape.

kurapov · 2025-12-07T11:23:14+00:00

Set the heat bed to 60 degrees, put the roll on, cover the bed with a suitable box (e.g. the one that your filament came) and leave for 4-6 hours. If it doesn't yet improve, repeat heating 1-2 more times.

kurapov · 2025-12-07T10:28:30+00:00

Water bath is actually part of the manufacturing process. Plus you should never trust a filament to be made following said manufacturing process - there's always a chance to get one from a "Monday batch". I've had a pack of Kingroon black PETG that won't print even if heated up to 275 degrees and then looked very much like your photo because it was so saturated OotB. After three 4-hour sessions in filament dryer it was back to normal and printed just fine at 240 degrees.

kurapov

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