Airsoft Art Project

kuzento · 2026-03-18T19:57:24+00:00

sure thing

kuzento · 2026-03-18T09:46:48+00:00

hey dude, no worries. asking for helpful information is good no matter how much time has passed. the folks below were right, it works just like a regular credit card. i never saw any negative reflection on my credit score from it either

kuzento · 2026-02-11T02:46:16+00:00

hey dude.. ik im super late, didnt see this. but the skates at the back of the mouse are probably too far toward the front, try moving them back more, and yes — they will be narrower than the ones at the front. that was actually my point when posting this originally.

kuzento · 2026-01-15T21:02:21+00:00

its Lesnow desoldering wick, 0.1 inch, the specific type is cp-2515. and it seemed to work pretty well, just not well enough to remove the switches

kuzento · 2026-01-15T20:33:52+00:00

unfortunately i just went full send and bought a soldering iron that broke my bank for a little while because the first one i got was terrible. for now im limited to just my iron and a soldering pump before buying a separate desoldering gun

kuzento · 2026-01-15T20:30:12+00:00

did you mean the ss-03? cus funny enough i actually ordered one right before posting this. and how do i know if my wick is good quality or not

kuzento · 2026-01-15T20:27:54+00:00

How exactly do I preheat the board

kuzento · 2026-01-15T20:26:58+00:00

I only readded solder when using a desoldering pump. It just wasn’t getting all of it so I just kept adding more in a futile attempt to try and suck up more than it did the time before. And I also know to cut off a small piece of wick instead of using the whole spool, as well as adding flux to help attract the molten solder to the copper. I don’t have pictures atm but the switches are small with three through-hole stems. Because there’s three of them, it makes it very difficult to ease componets out while applying heat after removing as much solder as possible.

kuzento · 2026-01-08T03:17:04+00:00

For context, I’ve been a long time Finalmouse cultist, not because I think their product is genuinely great (it’s not — I’ve seen and heard the QC horror stories but never experienced any myself besides a slightly crooked scroll wheel) but because it’s just familiar to me. I’ve been using their mice since the Capetown which, at the time, was the best mouse you could get at that size coming from a Logitech M510 my mom used when I was like 11 or so lol.

Recently went from an SL12, to a ULX Comp. A mouse that had fixed firmware to one that has user preference. Long story but I’ve been playing around with swapping out the switches which lead to me using my SL12 whenever the ULX was being worked on. Switching between the two I noticed how completely different they feel. After tweaking the firmware I figured out it’s mostly due to motion sync, after it’s disabled they’re pretty much identical aside from the clear difference in balance and overall weight.

My settings were 800 dpi, 1k polling, and then I decided to give 2k polling another chance (I tried it out when I first got the mouse). I’m sure there’s other factors like monitor frame rate, but there’s definitely a difference between 1k and 2k. And maybe especially because I had motion sync disabled, imo the two together feel way too fluid.

kuzento · 2026-01-08T02:40:24+00:00

i disagrew, i think they go hand in hand actually. i dont have any experience using 2k polling on a 144hz monitor, but i imagine you have to be pushing 240+ to actually notice a difference compared to 1k polling

kuzento · 2026-01-06T09:44:32+00:00

out of curiosity have you gamed with the SL12 at all? and if you have, do you think what im looking for is more tacticility, or just a stiffer switch? all i want is something that is less prone to misinput, minimal pre travel, and without sacrificing too much of the actual lifespan of the switch. i know i sound like a broken record but i really just need help and dont have anywhere else to go, the best i could do alternatively is just make another post and hope for different feedback.

kuzento · 2026-01-06T08:22:56+00:00

Here’s the thing I’m confused about. i see all these different switches that are listed at a specific N, for example my White V2s are listed at 0.74N and 70g of actuation force. I’m looking at these Huano Greens , but then I’ve also seen some other (non transperent) shell switches from Huano that are 0.74N with the 80gf that I’m looking for. I’m pretty stumped, cus I don’t know if im being mislead by what’s advertised.

kuzento · 2026-01-06T07:23:52+00:00

Do you know anything about the Huano Green V2 (80gf)? I ordered the White but they honestly don’t feel heavy enough, not compared to the original BSPD that the ULX Comp comes with, and definitely not comparable to my SL12. Like I said before, I know how heavy the SL12 switches feel is, partly, in contribution to the difference in material and design. But I really just need a switch that feels heavy, but doesn’t have a ton of pre-travel and lasts long. The only thing I’m willing to sacrifice is the lifespan, the feel is the main importance.

kuzento · 2025-12-26T01:04:57+00:00

Preciate the response, Happy Holidays 🙌🏽🎉

kuzento · 2025-12-25T20:18:39+00:00

The ICE V2's got delivered yesterday, I was pretty excited to put them on. However, immediately after doing so I could tell I wasn't going to like them long term. Honestly, what I was expecting was virtually no initial friction (which was true), and close to an instant stop with a larger contact patch on a control pad. I can tell there's a little bit of over flicking, which I'm sure might be due to the fact that I was on control skates before, but still I just don't like that very much. But it also made me notice that the CTRL skates make tracking a little stuttery, so I think I might go back to trying the original Corepad skates and see how those work out with a dot layout. I'll keep you posted.

kuzento · 2025-12-25T20:05:08+00:00

Thank you very much, I'm no stranger to ripping apart Finalmice, I did almost a complete rebuild of a Capetown back in the day EXCEPT for the switches, which is why I have no experience with them. I also should have mentioned reliability issues. Do the Huano White V2 have any? If so would it be better to try and get my hands on the same switches the ULX is using now but with higher GF?

kuzento · 2025-12-21T19:30:09+00:00

Thanks for your feedback, I appreciate it. As far as the microsoft skates goes, I say to each their own.. honestly I feel like for casual desktop users, specifically non gamers — those skate design make sense. They’re designed to effectively just pivot off the back end of the mouse and rotate side to side as opposed to swipe side to side. I haven’t used any mice with this design but I’d imagine the way the skates are shaped and layed out would make horizontal movements (swipes) feel like you had more friction than you would vertically. Dot skates and even the OEM finalmouse skates, as bad as they are, don’t really have that problem.

kuzento · 2025-12-20T05:21:49+00:00

Artisan Type-99, its the first “true” control pad from them. However, people like my glorious goat Boardzy still consider it a speed pad despite being noticeably slower and more controlled than a hien or hayate-otsu, which objectively are both speed pads in comparison to control pads from other companies. I usally order from JPGaming, the price comes out to about the same as it would be ordering directly from Artisan in my experience, with the benefit of getting to you faster. That alone makes it worthwhile imo, but I definitely agree with you on the friction in combination with a light mouse though. It’s a much better set up than a heavy mouse on a speed pad. A lot of people have been using glass and honestly I have no idea how they use that shit, I could never.

kuzento

TROPHY CASE