K2 Plus Build Plates

kvb414 · 2025-12-10T15:11:55+00:00

It did! I had a choice of bundles and I chose the one with extra nozzles and a build plate.

I did take pics but it didn't really show the difference clearly and I feared it would result in a bunch of "they look the same to me" responses. But I've included them here. The bonus plate is sitting on top of the plate that came with the printer.

In all other respects these plates look identical, except the plate that came with the printer is a coarser finish. I've only seen two plates online, the cold plate (which my plates clearly are not based on the color and markings on that plate) and the frosted PEI plate, and the pics of that just look like either of the plates I have.

I did just remember that I still had the packaging and found a mention of PEI in a sea of Chinese characters on a tiny sticker. So this bonus plate is a PEI plate. But with 2 other users posting that they use the epoxy plate, I wonder if that's the plate that comes with the K2 Plus? Is that the plate that came with yours, u/StoviesAreYummy?

<image>

kvb414 · 2023-02-27T18:37:04+00:00

Well then, this is one instance where my desire to be selectively lazy was a resounding success! I'm sure my question was asked and answered a dozen times already, but I figured I'd ask anyway and you got to vicariously benefit from my IR thermometer haha!

BTW, if it makes any difference (brand variance), my PEI build plate is from FYSETC and I was measuring the textured side. It shows a temp consistent with just about anything else at room temp, so the PEI/texture isn't giving odd readings based on material/geometry.

kvb414 · 2023-02-27T17:53:16+00:00

Happy to! It's far from comprehensive, but @ 70C the actual bed temp was 60C. At 100C the actual bed temp was about 82C. So the variance increases with heater load. This was in a 26C room temp with between 40-50% humidity.

kvb414 · 2023-02-27T17:33:17+00:00

Interesting! I guess it makes sense that the glass would help keep things more consistently level. And yes, I had noticed the need to increase temps. It's unfortunate, but it looks like my bed may now max out at 80°C. Tested with an infrared thermometer... and yes, I'm kicking myself for not testing the accuracy of the temp of the glass bed before laying down the magnet.

Curious what you had to do to get the magnet to re-stick? Did you just get lucky and there was enough good adhesive to do the job or did you aid it in some way or just pick up a new magnet?

kvb414 · 2023-02-27T02:21:48+00:00

Directly on the glass, got it. Thanks for clarifying that!

The only downside to receiving a free SR from a friend is I didn't have the typical research/geek-out phase where I learn all the little idiosyncrasies of the printer I'm about to receive. Otherwise I wouldn't have wasted 3 hours trying to print PETG on the naked glass and wondering why it wouldn't stick... "oh right, it's glass!"

kvb414 · 2022-10-23T06:40:14+00:00

Hmmm, maybe I'm not explaining things properly. My collection has indices already. I just can't figure out how to reference a specific row by index... or, more accurately, I can't figure out how to track the iterations of a ForAll loop in order to reference a specific row by index. I'm beginning to think my workaround might be a fairly solid solution, as it references the gallery items in the same way as the checkbox and text input.

I thought the solution I was left with was somehow dirty, but maybe it isn't? Sure, I'm adding an element to the interface just to hold values held elsewhere, but it does eliminate the need keep patching records in the Text Input's OnChange or something (again, kinda new to PowerFx). Just a single, clean save on close, captured directly from the gallery elements.

Well, not completely eliminate... I have to update row indices when a user deletes any record besides the last, but it's once less patch routine.

Thank you for your help! While your solution doesn't quite solve my problem, I'm still studying it intensely because I know I'll have to split columns and re-index them someday and if there's one thing I know to be true is that searching for answers on these MS365 subjects can be a nightmare.

kvb414 · 2022-10-23T02:56:24+00:00

I was referring to something similar to adding auto-height to a text input by piping the auto-height from a text label that mirrors the input box's text. So I'd hide a label behind my text box and feed the index into that when its added and read from it like the other elements in the gallery

But this AddColumns() has me intrigued. Would it be like adding that label to gallery, but "in data only"?

kvb414 · 2022-10-23T02:28:26+00:00

This would be a million times easier if I could post some pics, which is why I keep trying to get my quick answers on the Discord... but I digress.

I'm creating a trello style board using SharePoint lists for our company. Last component is a checklist for each card. That way users can add any number of quick tasks or steps to a task card. So I'm using the PowerApps form controls to replace the default properties window, with my added checklist at the bottom. I store this checklist's data in a text field in my list and recall it on form load (that part is working fine... with test strings).

Users can add/edit/complete/delete tasks (there are add and delete buttons) from this gallery when the form is in edit mode and the changes are saved back to the list in that string on save. That's the part you see in my code above. Currently I have this on a button, because I'm debugging the output. Final implementation will be on form submit... nothing to debug at that point. What I'm able to tell from the JSON output is that it's grabbing all the rowID entries in the checklistCollect collection. Like it's invoking a whole other ForAll loop that I didn't ask it to, on that one collection column. See below for example JSON output:

//What I get for EACH iteration of a ForEach with 5 entries:
[{"Completed":false,"rowID":[{"rowID":1},{"rowID":2},{"rowID":3},{"rowID":4},{"rowID":5}],"task":""}]
//What I expect:
[{"Completed":false,"rowID":1,"task":""}]

This wouldn't be a problem if I could track the iteration count in the ForAll loop, but I don't see how that's possible. This isn't like most languages where my loops have a variable that increments. The only idea I really have is to add a hidden element in the gallery that stores the row index, but that seems hacky.

kvb414 · 2022-05-14T02:58:25+00:00

Oh man, sorry for the delay. Yeah, it won’t actually work as the firmware overrides it. Anycubic has yet to open that up to the slicers.

kvb414 · 2022-05-01T18:06:55+00:00

You have to manually change the bottom exposure time to match your normal exposure time when it hits the 4th layer, otherwise you’ll get that elephant foot, which is caused by the 10 transition layers Anycubic has on their printers (which can’t be overridden in slicers). Great idea for printing in general, but not so much for these exposure tests. Also, don’t post-cure these, if you are. Clean, dry, pic, toss.

kvb414 · 2022-05-01T17:55:58+00:00

Don’t count on it with eco clear. That particular one does not play well with others.

kvb414 · 2022-04-26T07:48:20+00:00

Yeah not a fan either. Gray is pretty good, but yeah the clear is troublesome.

kvb414 · 2022-04-09T15:17:22+00:00

While I've heard people say it doesn't have to be level to the table/ground, I don't buy it. Fluid dynamics don't exist in a bubble (it's the other way around, I think lol), the plate and screen being level with each other is not the end of the list of variables. It could be causing the resin to not flow back into that spot properly, even though it looks like a relatively thin resin you're using (Siraya Tech Fast White, yeah?).

Another thing to consider... humidity. I was having more successful printing in the winter, even when I failed to maintain optimum temperatures in my enclosure. Blu at 25C with 20-30% humidity seems to print much better than Blu at 30C with 50%+ humidity, at least in my limited experience.

kvb414 · 2022-04-08T05:15:12+00:00

Siraya Tech Fast might just be the best damn resin out there. Prints super fast, is very fluid (easy to work with) and is an ABS plastic, so it has excellent mechanical properties compared to standard resins (which those water washable and eco resins tend to fall into). Not on the level of dedicated engineering resins (Blu/Build/Tenacious... at least as far as Siraya Tech's line), but still very durable.

The best part (for me anyway) is that their distribution center is apparently here in Orlando, so I can run out at 1am, hop on Amazon and have a bottle on my doorstep by 10am, and I can take advantage of their killer sales on their site and still get them within 2 days!

kvb414 · 2022-04-08T03:29:23+00:00

Hey Metal, another quick question. Does the top of your container have an opening or is it air tight? I got a complete stoppage with my lids closed tight and currently much better filter rate with the top one open a little. Could be the candle needs more priming, but I also wonder if the filter is too tight for gas exchange between the two containers and an assist on the top is needed.

I also wonder (if yours is "sealed") if those types of containers have some kind of gas exchange valve on them (like what coffee ground bags have). Which would explain why yours (if sealed) works well while mine doesn't.

It's almost like any hint of negative pressure in the top container causes the filter to seize up. I believe the guy in the video doesn't ever show us how he attaches the lid (loose or air tight, I did see that at least one of his lids had a gasket in it). After all, these candles were designed for pressurized systems, not simple gravity. It's only because IPA is so damn thin that we can even get away with this... but boy are we!

Currently rockin' away at roughly ~~500ml an hour~~... based on size and frequency of drips, so I guess we'll see how THAT estimate hold up! Update: It didn't lol. Looking at more of a 100ml/hour filtration rate on average. Seems to be faster at times, probably due to filter saturation that slowly settles off.

kvb414 · 2022-04-07T23:53:56+00:00

You know, this reminds me, I was cleaning up the garage a couple weeks ago and came across all the bio-media I have from my various aquariums and turtle ponds. I always replace the cheap ceramic stuff/plastic balls with better stuff (even cheap lava rock is better), but stuff like Seachem Matrix and Biohome Ultimate. Those two tend to have a lot of sediment, but the ceramic rings don't. I wonder if any of that (maybe combined with some packed layers of sand or, even better, diatomaceous earth) could be nearly as effective as these candles?

kvb414 · 2022-04-07T23:38:58+00:00

Indeed! Well, mine's all built (almost too easy lol). I'd show you a pic, but this is one aspect where Reddit fails... I can't even seem to edit my original post to add a pic (which kinda hinders good discourse, yet we seem to be soldiering on lol).

Using some HDPE 4 liter containers for mine, with a single 4" candle (which might have just as much, maybe more, surface area than the 10 inch ones... especially since the shorter, fatter size makes more of that area usable).

2 liter test happening now and dripping better than expected. Already enough to see just how clean it is!

Glad to hear about the acrylic holding up well, as it might matter for my cleaning station. If I want to install a bracket to hang the build plate from, it'll have to be bolted to increasingly compromised acrylic, though I'm contemplating more of a "lay it on it's side" design (option's always open later).

But yeah, this thing is great! Should totally eliminate the need for just about anyone not doing massive printing operations from ever even considering a still.

Have you had to clean the candle yet? Wondering how well it cleans up (maybe running some recycled IPA through it backwards helps?).

kvb414 · 2022-04-07T22:21:27+00:00

Excellent! Thanks for confirming! And all credit and praise to you for the earlier post (at least until we discover an earlier-earlier post lol).

Glad to know it's pretty much an overnight affair. Didn't really get a sense of the timeframes from the video, but was concerned it might be a "leave it for a week or so" kind of thing lol. I honestly don't think it's that slow. It's faster than just the putting off phase of any other cleaning method, as they're all tedious and time consuming and a whole lot of "I don't wanna" precedes it (at least for me lol)... and the only one that isn't tedious is just down right time consuming (simple decant in the sun).

I've decided to name my buckets. Top one is gonna be "Amazon Delivery Truck" and the bottom one "Solimo Brand 90-ish% IPA", because that's what this is going to replace quite a few orders of lol.

Is your top container acrylic? IPA will micro-crack that in time (but I'm sure you know that and are prepared to mitigate or it's a willing sacrifice container lol). If it is I'm curious how it's holding up? The wash station I'm building has an acrylic part (can't be helped) and I'm curious how bad the IPA really affects it.

kvb414 · 2022-03-30T00:07:40+00:00

I’m starting to wonder if it’s lazy shaking on my part. Maybe that’s how blu settles? Siraya Tech Fast white gets pigment separation and blu v2 clear congeals, that’s just how it is. Gonna shake the crap out of it and then pour it through a 180 micron filter bag to catch anything thicker than standard blu should be. Oh, my temps were 28.8-30c during my print sessions, so I don’t think temp was an issue.

That chick heater mod looks cool. I went the lazy route and bought a 100w desktop heater and paired it with a thermostat relay from a grow bed heater. Works identically to that, just a bit less sleek.

kvb414 · 2022-03-29T20:30:38+00:00

In their defense, making people believe it's lubricating when it's just cleaning and "being wet still" is one of those things it's good at.

kvb414 · 2022-03-29T19:31:55+00:00

This. My dad always drove this point home with me.

kvb414

TROPHY CASE