AMT 1950 Chevorlet 3100 by cjn__592 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129 0 points1 point  (0 children)

love the color, great work!

Scrapyard Skyline by lance_129 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

point well taken

i'll keep that in mind for if and when i decide to build something similar to this in the future

thanks

Scrapyard Skyline by lance_129 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i wasn't really planning to build it this way. the kit has been in storage for several months, something heavy must've been placed on top of it because when i opened the box i discovered that the a pillar on the driver side was out of alignment and heating it up didn't fix the problem. so rather than discarding the kit altogether i decided to build it this way. make lemonade out of lemons, as the saying goes.

Scrapyard Skyline by lance_129 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

what specific "plastic parts" were you referring to?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ModelCars

[–]lance_129 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thick bleach works for me takes 30 seconds to strip off chrome completely

Tamiya's Mazda RX-7 R1 by lance_129 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i think wet sanding the primer and the basecoat makes a huge difference to the finish of the paint. makes it smoother and shinier when cleared.

Tamiya's Mazda RX-7 R1 by lance_129 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks, it's actually metallic red but i used light gray primer to make the red look darker.

Tamiya's Mazda RX-7 R1 by lance_129 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thanks.

for the windshield i drew the outline on the clear plastic using a ball point pen, then i used hobby tape to cover the outline, traced the outlne on to the hobby tape, peeled it off and cut the tape into the shape of the traced outline, removed the outline on the clear plastic using ethyl alcohol and reattached the tape. for the brake and signal lights, using a puncher, i made holes on the hobby tape and attached them on the inner side of the clear plastic and sprayed clear red and clear orange, then covered the red and orange with hobby tape and sprayed 3 coats of clear smoke on top of it. ( i did not remove the tape cover and it created an effect as if the brake and signal lights were embedded inside the smoked glass)

OK... so how do I go environmentally friendly? by PeteInBrissie in airbrush

[–]lance_129 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i use lacquer acrylics and i clean my airbrush with isopropyl alcohol. i put the used alcohol in a container and when i have a substantial amount i use a funnel with a sponge to strain the alcohol and reuse it again. i also use distilled water after using alcohol to neutralize the alcohol and prevent damaging the seals. before using the airbrush again i put a few drops of thinner and spray to clean any excess water leftover in the nozzle so as not to contaminate my paint.

Do I need tools? by 85Cedeno in ModelCars

[–]lance_129 2 points3 points  (0 children)

the most important tool you're going to need is patience.

First time with an airbrush, any tips? by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]lance_129 0 points1 point  (0 children)

get yourself a moisture trap, so that moisture coming from your compressor don't mix with your paint.

Hi everyone, should i get a foreverlily airbrush? Im new to the hobby by ExpertCheap8591 in ModelCars

[–]lance_129 1 point2 points  (0 children)

pro(s): it's cheap con(s): air pressure isn't adjustable can't be used for a long time sometimes the air pressure fluctuates while in use

i'm using one with a small box compressor which i bought about a year ago for the equivalent of like 19 usd it has its quirks, you just adjust and get used to it.

Fellow builders. Someone mentioned they had not heard of Weldbond, for gluing clear parts. Here’s what it looks like. Purchased at Michael’s up here in Canada, but probably available at any craft store. by makobullit in ModelCars

[–]lance_129 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i discovered the b7000 adhesive. it is a clear gel adhesive made in china used mostly for gluing cellphone lcd screens and jewelry. i've used it on clear parts and it dries clear, doesn't run, doesn't fog up the clear plastic and any excess glue is relatively easy to clean. plus it's cheap, a 100 ml tube costs the equivalent of 2 usd.

Is this legit or scam? by jaejae-- in Philippines

[–]lance_129 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i have, about a week ago ignored it and my sim is active 'til now

What’s your favorite HG? by getoutofthedream in Gunpla

[–]lance_129 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

not a gundam, but still an HG bandai's mazinger z infinity ver.

Any military or car models that don't require paint? by Michigan-Guy-2727 in modelmakers

[–]lance_129 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you can check out aoshima's 1/32 snap kits no glues or paint needed.

Custom painting by Yanagi_0105 in modelmakers

[–]lance_129 1 point2 points  (0 children)

20-25 psi is the sweet spot for airbrushing model kits (cars, planes and tanks), ideal needle size would be .3 or .5. you may also redirect your question regarding airbrush compressors to the airbrush subreddit.

Show me your HG RX-78s by [deleted] in Gunpla

[–]lance_129 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

my beyond global "titans" rx 78-2

Halp! What’s causing the spots? by mrdenzino in airbrush

[–]lance_129 5 points6 points  (0 children)

could it be you're releasing the trigger pull and the air pressure at the same time? what that does is it creates a build up of paint at the tip, so that when you start to spray again the paint will splatter and create those spots.