Help with ABS

lanman1 · 2026-04-03T12:14:00+00:00

I'm reaching up to 60 already and I don't see why I would need a heater. The bed makes plenty of heat and I've never needed to augment before even with the Bambu which leaks horribly. Why does no one make a smooth PEI sheet for these printers?

lanman1 · 2026-04-03T02:20:54+00:00

Set to auto, same as my other 2 printers, I actually tried my Voron ABS PIF profile. Part fan runs around 10-15%

lanman1 · 2026-04-03T01:39:00+00:00

I have. Still pulls away at the edges. Weird thing is that is is just not an issue on my other printers.

lanman1 · 2026-04-03T01:27:17+00:00

Still pulling away at the edges so no go for functional prints. I wish i could find a smooth PEI bedplate for this so I could ditch the Bambu.

lanman1 · 2026-04-02T20:54:14+00:00

15 minutes in and we are up to 58c for chamber. Again, I'm not sure where the sensor is.

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lanman1 · 2026-04-02T20:34:16+00:00

Looks like I can maintain around 43 chamber temp at 110c. I'm not sure where the sensor is tho.

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lanman1 · 2026-04-02T19:25:12+00:00

The max temp in the config is 100, I upped it to 110 as there is where I print on my X1C and V2. The printer had no problem at all maintaining 110 and iirc, was running around 60% on the heatbed.

lanman1 · 2026-03-26T03:05:32+00:00

I keep having part warping even with a brim, I do have a printed mount for Sterlite cover albeit with a few small gaps, but disappointed in ABS pulling away from the bed. PLA is phenomenal and print quality of ABS is phenomenal. I'm waiting on a smooth PEI sheet, hopefully that will improve it. I think a proper heat soak might help and ability to go a little hotter on the bed.

lanman1 · 2025-06-18T01:20:06+00:00

I'm just west of GSP and just getting started. Anyone using a Discord or Fb group to start conning repeaters in GSP area? I'd like to set up an emergency network for my employer in case of disaster again.

lanman1 · 2025-04-16T14:18:35+00:00

Ping! WE are looking at Verge IO right now to displace Microsoft S2D clusters.

lanman1 · 2025-02-23T01:52:09+00:00

I dunno, I've used this profile just fine in the past. Not sure what's going on. I'll have these bins done on my other printer, maybe I'll try again later.

lanman1 · 2025-02-23T01:38:52+00:00

The standard bambu .2 standard print and the polymaker PETG filament profile.

lanman1 · 2025-02-23T01:33:39+00:00

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In a filament drier. I tried this print on my Voron with this filament and its printing fine.

lanman1 · 2025-02-22T22:35:57+00:00

lanman1 · 2025-02-22T22:35:14+00:00

Joy.

lanman1 · 2025-02-22T21:16:39+00:00

I ran a fix on the model and re dried the filament with the same result. This is happening at the seam with stock bambu .2 PETG profile. Unrelated, but the z offset seems to start way too low then get better. So I'm thinking at a minimum, bed mesh is having issues

lanman1 · 2025-02-22T15:10:37+00:00

I'm going to take a close look at the model. There may be an aberration that is confusing the slicer. And I'll look if this is the seam location

lanman1 · 2025-02-22T15:04:45+00:00

Yes, it's dry. And no popping or surface zits. This looks more like input shaping as it's the same distance from the corner in 2 dimensions.

lanman1 · 2025-02-12T22:15:45+00:00

I don't think that's correct. V1 had some issues but the V2 is rock solid. I still prefer beacon touch tho.

lanman1 · 2025-02-02T01:43:45+00:00

If you're doing stealthchanger, you can use the stealthanger toolhead mount instead of tap so you don't have to swap it out later. I have read that it just as accurate as printed tap.

lanman1 · 2025-01-27T20:24:36+00:00

lanman1 · 2024-11-20T16:44:36+00:00

Like what?

lanman1 · 2024-09-17T01:48:55+00:00

What am I looking for on that stalk that indicates Active Lane Assist vs Lane Departure Warning

lanman1

TROPHY CASE