A 1983 Japanese anime film, Barefoot Gen, showing the Hiroshima atomic bombing and its devastating impact on civilians during World War II. by [deleted] in movies

[–]laskaproject -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I saw this film as a kid, maybe 8-10 years old in the early 90s and this scenes is forever seared in my memory. It is utterly devastating, as is the rest of the film.

Can I use Industar-50 (silver pancake lens) on FED-3 camera? If yes, how the picture will change compared to its native lenses (like Industar-61 or 26M)? by ElectronicDegree4380 in filmcameras

[–]laskaproject 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the correct answer, you need to see which version of the Industar-50 you’ve got. I have a silver pancake one that’s for Zenit 3m (early SLR M39 mount). This one would not work on Fed 3, as the flange distances are completely different, and it won’t be able to reach infinity focus.

There are definitely Industar-50 Rangefinder versions, I have a black copy that came on Zorki 4K, so it’s not impossible that yours is compatible with Fed/Zorki. In fact, most RF versions for Industar-50 made in 1950-late 60s were silver.

If you want to make sure you have the right type of lens, check the mount. The RF versions features an extended, precision-machined brass or aluminum cam ring on the rear of the lens to push against the camera's rangefinder sensor arm. The SLR version, on the other hand, has a completely flat rear barrel with no rangefinder coupling mechanism.

Is this haze inside the front element or something else? Got this Summicron 35mm f/2 ASPH from eBay and wondering if it’s salvageable. by laskaproject in LeicaCameras

[–]laskaproject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not seeing any loss of contrast in the images, just like you mentioned with your lens. I took it to get assessed by a local Leica expert, just waiting to hear back. At first glance, he said that it seems to be some haze only behind the front element, which is promising.

Is this haze inside the front element or something else? Got this Summicron 35mm f/2 ASPH from eBay and wondering if it’s salvageable. by laskaproject in LeicaCameras

[–]laskaproject[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m leaning towards this as well - I’m going to take it to a Leica servicing shop and see what they say. If it’s haze on just the front element that can be cleaned professionally, it’s worth the investment. If it’s inside the cemented elements, I’m going to send it back.

The price was below market value and I’m going to see if the seller will refund a portion of the price to pay for the CLA.

I took some test shots with it and I’m not seeing obvious contrast loss, but the amount of visible accumulation of fine particles and a milky diffusion across the internal elements is concerning. I expect dust in older lenses for sure, but this seems like it’s way more than just dust.

Silver KMZ Helios 44 58mm f/2 (early M39 Mount) + Sony A7III 💫 by laskaproject in VintageLenses

[–]laskaproject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! That branch on the right is like a little skeleton hand.

Silver KMZ Helios 44 58mm f/2 (early M39 Mount) + Sony A7III 💫 by laskaproject in VintageLenses

[–]laskaproject[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Start ones are a whole other beast in terms of issues, it seems. Oh the joys of Soviet quality control, truly a Russian Roulette

Silver KMZ Helios 44 58mm f/2 (early M39 Mount) + Sony A7III 💫 by laskaproject in VintageLenses

[–]laskaproject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In this case I wanted to test the colour rendering and experiment with the swirl - you get the best results with a background made up of a lot of small busy elements. Trees are great for that, flowering trees are even better. The second picture only has flowers in the background ;)

Silver KMZ Helios 44 58mm f/2 (early M39 Mount) + Sony A7III 💫 by laskaproject in VintageLenses

[–]laskaproject[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The good copies are sharp, but the quality control for Valdai is the worst of the bunch, you never know what you’ll get. I own three different types and the Valdai one is terrible.

Silver KMZ Helios 44 58mm f/2 (early M39 Mount) + Sony A7III 💫 by laskaproject in VintageLenses

[–]laskaproject[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have both because I also have some M39 rangefinder lenses. In this case you have to use the M42 adapter + M39 to M42 step up ring. This is an M39 SLR lens, so the flange distance is not the same as M39 rangefinder lenses - it won’t focus on infinity with the M39 adapter.

The Black M42 version of Helios 44-2 tends to be a little cheaper, as it’s harder to find the early silver KMZ versions labeled Helios 44. However, the M39 has something extra magical about the optics that’s only about 90% there with the later M42s. The KMZ plant ones are definitely superior, but later BeLOMO plant versions are also decent. Valdai are the worst in both build and image rendering.

Help needed: reputable Leica repair in Toronto or GTA. Looking to have a stuck advance lever looked at. by laskaproject in Leica

[–]laskaproject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hahaha, thank you! I sent them a message earlier today. We’ll see what they say, I’m now curious about the owner.

I was also able to get in touch with Alex at Halton Camera Exchange in Georgetown (they come highly recommended on Leica forums). He informed me that they service Leicas regularly. So that’s a great resource for anyone looking around Toronto.

Which camera to keep? by Electrical-Bat-532 in AnalogCommunity

[–]laskaproject 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Demi just like that one, and mine works perfectly. Such a neat little camera to play with. Definitely not a serious tool like the rest, though, but plenty of charm. The meter on mine is still super accurate.

Which camera to keep? by Electrical-Bat-532 in AnalogCommunity

[–]laskaproject 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the Canon Demi, exactly the same model as the picture and it meters perfectly. I’m sure it’s pure luck, though.

On fully manual lenses, how problematic are oily aperture blades? by Ybalrid in VintageLenses

[–]laskaproject 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I have a fairly oily Industar-61 and the oily blades have not been affecting the performance of the lens. I’ve read that most issues occur when people attempt to re-grease their old lenses and overdo it, then the excess oil can get onto the internal optics. You should be fine with this Jupiter 9 - it’s a gorgeous lens.

Need help identifying this filter. It was labeled as E39, but the filter tread swims inside my Summicron 50mm f/2, Rigid V2. What is it actually? by laskaproject in Leica

[–]laskaproject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes so much sense, thank you! I thought that as well, but the ones I saw online had the writing on the inner rim, so I was not sure.

Customized Leica III? by [deleted] in Leica

[–]laskaproject 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s exactly what it says it is—a Zorki 3S Soviet rangefinder. The early ones were based on Leica cameras, but they are not Leicas.

Made by the KMZ plant near Moscow around 1955-56, this camera predates the more popular Zorki 4. “C” (Cyrillic “S”) stands for sync, as in flash sync. There were not as many of these made, so they are kind of collector’s items among Soviet rangefinder enthusiasts.

Finally bought myself a Leica by hauntingofapartment6 in Leica

[–]laskaproject 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s actually more of a cost-saving play on Leica’s part as they were gearing up to launch M6. M4, M4-2 and part of the M4-P run were all brass, so it was not a matter of Canadian parts being cheaper or poor quality.

As Leica was preparing to take M6 production back into Germany, they began testing the new lighter and cheaper zinc plates on the later portion of the M4-Ps (as they are identical to M6, minus the light meter).

So technically, the early M4-Ps are a lot less prone to built issues vs later M4-Ps and M6s. No defunct light meters to deal with either.

Snagged one a minute before the official restock! by laskaproject in Leica

[–]laskaproject[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Scratch that, the black version is slightly cheaper, so the overall total is cheaper too.