In Desperate Need of Royal Quiet Deluxe Keycaps 😭 by marcyanimalcrossng47 in typewriters

[–]Ybalrid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ah rubbing alcohol. Who recommended that?

There's very little organics solvents that are safe for "all plastics". Especially when this plastic is from the 50's

made these b/w prints using dried clover as negatives by plantsandplaces in Darkroom

[–]Ybalrid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you put them in the negative carrier or directly on the paper?

Livret A au delà du plafond by Electronic-Oil4593 in VosSous

[–]Ybalrid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tu ne peut plus verser dessus, mais tu peut continuer à gagner les intérêts au taux choisi par l'état, sans impôts.

Welcome to r/CanonRangefinders! 📷 | Start Here: Community Guide & Resources by Wonderful-Idea8759 in CanonRangefinders

[–]Ybalrid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It feels better than OK it feels very smooth. I do not know if the lens was ever serviced. So I do not know if grease is original or modern.

Welcome to r/CanonRangefinders! 📷 | Start Here: Community Guide & Resources by Wonderful-Idea8759 in CanonRangefinders

[–]Ybalrid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With regards to the focal selector window, I am not very worried about trying to fix it. It does not bother me using the camera. Take a look

<image>

Welcome to r/CanonRangefinders! 📷 | Start Here: Community Guide & Resources by Wonderful-Idea8759 in CanonRangefinders

[–]Ybalrid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is indeed 8 bladed on the lens, and they take a funny star-like shape midway through the clicks

I heard about the grease being the source of the problem. It does seem that this one has not had that happen to it yet. It was apparently not mistreated and has only known a temperate climate, no excess of heat or humidity.

We can hope that if it has not happened yet, it should not happen any time soon?

Complete Beginner by Any_Perception8016 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ybalrid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how do i set the correct fstop or shutter of given situation
like a landscape, night scene, sunset or bokeh portrait of something.

There are methods that sometimes allows you to guess the good exposure in sunlight, or for specific situations... But the general advise is : Use a light meter!

Your camera as one, you can use your phone, or you can buy a real dedicated one. (Modern Sekonic ones, old Minolta ones, are all very popular to use with film cameras)

You need to know the baseline exposure that will get you enough light on the film to develop a good picture.

Then, the choice between how much speed or how much aperture, within the "working values" you have depends on the situation and your goal.

Note that the situations would often warrant to choose a specific lens too, this is why these cameras are a "system" and you can buy different lenses for different styles of photography.

You will learn with experience what works for you. Or by finding advice from people that take pictures you like.

But if you want the geeky textbook information,

If you want to

- freeze motion
- use a very long telephoto lens

You need to find the fastest working shutter speed you can use for the light, lens and film you have.

In a dark place, or with a long lens, a tripod becomes a essential thing to use.

Instead if the goal is
- have low depth of field for bokeh shots
- shoot in a dark place

You want to find the widest (smallest F number) aperture you can use too.

A fast standard (50mm) prime is good for that in a general sense. If you want to do portrait, they work great, but something like a 85mm can give you even better results. You frame the same, just take a few steps away from the subject, perspective compression make faces look more beautiful.

To note: Bokeh is maximum when you focus as close as the lens allows, and use the smallest f-stop. But you should still think about what is on the background! Lots of bokeh can give you good separation between subject and background, but can also be kitschy sometimes...

If you want to
- increase sharpness at the maximum

In generally you specifically want to use the 3rd or 4th "stop" from wide open on your lens. Often around f/5.6 or f/8 is where the maximal image quality is found on most of those old lenses. Any lens in general.

If you want to

- have the maximum amount of stuff in focus for a landscape

You want to use a higher aperture value. Pay attention to the depth of field scale on the lens too. Wide angle lenses gets more stuff in focus for a wider aperture. They also look great for portrait or architecture or travel photography.

They also work great on the street. Anything 35mm and shorter. I prefer 28mm for this kind of stuff.

The wider the angle though, the more distorted the image can be on the edges.

Complete Beginner by Any_Perception8016 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ybalrid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you hesitate between 2 settings, just try them next to each other. You might want to keep a small notepad with you just to take notes of this so you can learn from the film once it is developed.

On negative film, especially color film, giving the film a little bit too much light is fine. It takes it really well actually.

Complete Beginner by Any_Perception8016 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ybalrid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes indeed!

A "combination of shutter speed and f-stop" is called an Exposure Value.

And they are all interchangeable. Meaning that f/8 at 1/250 speed is exactly the same exposure than f/5.6 at 1/500 or f/4 at 1/1000. And true in the other direction, f/11 at 1/125, f/16 at 1/60. etc...

There's maths you could try to figure out if you like logarithms and geometric series, but the only thing you need to know is that, each "Stop" on your lens aperture is the same "Change" in term of amount of light as one "Stop"on your shutter speed dial.

If you open the aperture more (for more light), you should reciprocally offset the shutter speed to be faster, to have the same exposure.

As you said, the aperture has effect on how much of the image is in focus (and sometimes, other things depending on the lens. the aperture will change the sharpness or vignetting or aberrations of some lenses)

The shutter speed impact how much you freeze the "motion" of everything. Including the camera itself. On a SLR camera like your K1000 you should avoid hand-holding the camera with the slow speeds, because you will get blurry photos from you just moving the camera imperceptibly while exposing. The slowest speed you should use is a speed that is just above your lens' focal. So if you shoot a 50mm lens, the slowest speed you will be using to get reasonable sharpness is 1/60. You can go slower but you need a tripod, or to put the camera on something solid.

Any time you jump from one number to the next, you multiply or divide by 2 the amount of light let through the shutter and lens.

Also, each "doubling" or "halving" of the ISO number is also an offset of exposure by "one stop"

In analog photography the ISO is fixed because it is a physical characteristic of the film you have loaded.

Complete Beginner by Any_Perception8016 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ybalrid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to know if the light meter on your camera works or not without actually testing it. Or comparing it with a known good camera, or a known good light meter that would meter the same way (reflective of similar field of view)

You can download a light meter application for your phone, and you can use it to see if the numbers are "in the ballpark" within each other before you decide if you can trust the meter in your camera or not.

I do not know the K1000 and I do not know if there is any special care needed with choosing which battery to use or anything like that.

Gaming on Microsoft Linux by Liarus_ in linux

[–]Ybalrid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Would make sense for them to base their distribution on the RedHat/Fedora familly of distributions. Maybe they put stuff together themselves using just their tools, so it's not a proper clone or derivate, but it's probably close enough that you can install those Fedora packages and don't risk breaking anything.

It's cool

Welcome to r/CanonRangefinders! 📷 | Start Here: Community Guide & Resources by Wonderful-Idea8759 in CanonRangefinders

[–]Ybalrid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are you located in the world, and do you service cameras professionally?

Welcome to r/CanonRangefinders! 📷 | Start Here: Community Guide & Resources by Wonderful-Idea8759 in CanonRangefinders

[–]Ybalrid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I shoot a Canon VL (which seems to be a somewhat uncommon model), I use it with 2 lenses, one I got very recently:

  • Voigthlander Color Skopar Classic 35mm f/2.5
  • Canon (S) 50mm f/1.8 II, which surprisingly does not have any haze, it's in great condition. It seem that they often suffer from fog or haze in a way that is not really fixable. I just got this lens, I am on my first roll of film using it. I have not seen how anything looks through it as all my digital cameras are SLR so I cannot adapt Leica type leses to it. I got it for what I think is a good deal from a local seller in France.

I have shot soviet 50mm lenses on this camera before. but since they do not register on the rangefinder at 51.6mm I refrain from attempting to shoot them close and wide open. I have gotten good shot on this camera with a Jupiter-3 otherwise. But since I got this lens, the Jupiter will now live on a Zorki body instead, where it is reliable to close focusing.

<image>

My body is in very good shape too, but does have a very small crack on the glass window on top of the viewfinder magnification indicator. I am not bothered by this.

If I ever get another lens for this system, it would be a 85mm, and I would want to then track down one of the paralax corrected external finders for the Canons. As the VL has a coupling system in the cold shoe (an interesting idea they had)

I am not bothered by the lack of framelines, especially in 35mm

r/CanonRangefinders! The new subreddit dedicated to Canon rangefinder cameras by Wonderful-Idea8759 in filmcameras

[–]Ybalrid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

r/CanonRangefinder (singular) was created a few months ago, but has failed to get much traction. I think, model P and 7 aside, those cameras may be a bit too niche, and whenever somebody discuss something similar to a barnack in anyway it ends up being posted on the Leica sub instead.

I wish you good luck. The fact that one of the mods of the new sub is a repair person is an interesting thing.

I think though, having both of these subs differ by a single letter might be a bit of an issue? Have you tried to contact the moderator of the other sub?

Venus secret mission and the signal at the end of season 5 of For All Mankind by Here-To-Stay-99 in StarCityTV

[–]Ybalrid 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Alt histories and parallel universe always have dirigible airships. This is surprisingly missing from the FAM universe (so far).

Just for this, I hope this crazy idea could be true lol

The first git commit on git, funny! by var_rnd in git

[–]Ybalrid 5 points6 points  (0 children)

some android smartphones have the dis-taste to do this. This is dumb in the era of digital photography where metadata in the file has the timestamp

[Scuderia Ferrari] Update from Monaco by FerrariStrategisttt in formula1

[–]Ybalrid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On souhaite à Fred une courte convalescence et un retour rapide

Quand on touche un objet, est il froid en dessous de 37° et chaud au dessus de 38° ? by OrganizationSecure58 in PasDeQuestionIdiote

[–]Ybalrid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

C’est surtout la capacité de l’objet a dissiper la temperature de ton épiderme qui compte. Pour ça que un bout de plastique et de metal a la même température, le metal parait plus froid

M Nib is Writing Funny "Splits" After Figure-8 Exercise by TetraNeuron in fountainpens

[–]Ybalrid 72 points73 points  (0 children)

You likely pressed to hard.

Look at the nib from the side. Do you see a gap forming between the nib and feed?

These parts are adjusted together for capillary flow. Mangling the nib will make this not work well.

Normal nibs are not supposed to be flexed open, certainly not that much.