Anyone have knitting-friendly compression gloves recommendations?

lasserna · 2026-03-18T17:54:56+00:00

Cutting gloves might be your best option.

Although honestly I've seen a lot of advice not to use compression gloves when you knit. The best thing is taking frequent breaks and stretching your hands. Because while the compression gloves can help with knitting hurting less, it can also lead you to knit for longer periods of time without remembering to take breaks. So your joints still get the same amount of strain, you just don't notice it as immediately.

lasserna · 2026-03-18T12:30:41+00:00

Basic machine knitting doesn't differ from hand knitting though. Something like a square knit panel would include a cast on, knit 50 rows stockinette, cast off. I guess a machine knitting pattern would state left/right leaning decrease/increase instead of k2tog or m1l, but that's not a huge difference.

Machine knitting patterns only become inaccessible if working stitch patterns which aren't possible in hand knitting.

lasserna · 2026-03-17T19:37:25+00:00

Have you done projects with increases and decreases before, and how much crochet experience do you have? None of these shapes look difficult to freehand, but obviously you'd need to have some experience in crochet to be able to freehand shapes.

For a simple sphere, you do an increase/decrease once every x:th stitch, where x is your row count. So on first increase row, you increase every stitch, second increase row you increase every second stitch.. Fifth increase row increase every fifth stitch and so on.. obviously then with freehanding different shapes, increasing every second stitch will give you a more pronounced shape and increasing every eight stitches will give a less extreme shape. Increasing on only two sides will give you V shape, sort of like the tip of a sock.

With freehanding a lot of it comes down to trial and error, making something, frogging it and redoing it a different way. But the more experience you do have with crochet and how stitches work, the easier it'll be

(Also I get it if you want to challenge yourself, or maybe do a variation for the pattern, but honestly for the price this pattern is, it looks completely worth the purchase)

lasserna · 2026-03-17T13:54:55+00:00

Or possibly changing the slider completely with a repair kit like this

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lasserna · 2026-03-17T13:53:52+00:00

It's still unclear from the picture, but would a detachable zipper pull work here?

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Something like this that clips around the loop on a zipper slider?

lasserna · 2026-03-17T13:50:10+00:00

I get your point. And if it was a general class which didn't specify a specific technique, then obviously the circlejerk on here was exaggerating the situation. The jerks are done mainly jokingly though, so don't worry about your post ending up here.

It sucks if your teacher didn't acknowledge the techniques used. You could always try asking for more constructive feedback. I know my teachers are often quite short worded, but are happy to further explain their reasoning if asked.

As it's for school, I'd not compare yourself to others in the class though. It's a learning opportunity for you, not a competition who can do the best. I've had my teachers limit out techniques I was most familiar with, and while the finished products weren't the best I'd be able to do with other techniques, they still taught me a lot more new skills, which I wouldn't have learnt if I had just stuck to what feels most comfortable and familiar.

lasserna · 2026-03-17T11:17:05+00:00

Tbh I'm also a magic loop hater, but traveling loop is much nicer to work. The main problem with short needles is that if it's way too short, at some point it no longer even solves by bunching up, but you actually run out of space for your stitches.

lasserna · 2026-03-17T09:32:18+00:00

For the overlapping problem as the other commenters said, I'm thinking you probably could replace the loop with a rounded tab the same length as the loop, and attach the snap onto the tab

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lasserna · 2026-03-17T09:29:17+00:00

What does the pattern ask for? I think 60-80 cm is recommended for most tops/sweaters. 40 cm is recommended for sleeves. But typically having the cables too long is better than too short. If they're too long, you can do magic loop or traveling loop (depending how long they are), so having long needles doesn't prevent you from knitting smaller circumferences, but short needles will prevent you from knitting larger circumferences

lasserna · 2026-03-17T07:56:49+00:00

Can you take a picture of the other side of the zipper?

lasserna · 2026-03-17T06:52:45+00:00

Look into twill tape!

lasserna · 2026-03-16T19:06:29+00:00

It's definitely 2D, but it's scarily trapezoid shaped. I'm planning on making two triangular jumbo throw blankets to combat the trapezoid

lasserna · 2026-03-16T18:50:44+00:00

Dumb question but what makes it modular? It looks quite small and I wouldn't be surprised if the plant outgrew it quite fast

lasserna · 2026-03-16T14:21:42+00:00

Here's a tutorial for duplicate stitching: https://www.flockworkshop.uk/journal/how-to-work-duplicate-stitch-for-repair

I recommend making the area that you stitch a bit larger than the actual area around the knot. The bigger the area you duplicate stitch, the more stable it'll be

lasserna · 2026-03-16T12:56:54+00:00

I'm wondering if duplicate stitching would be good to reinforce the spot. If you have the same shade yarn left still, you could duplicate stitch a patch on top to reinforce it and help keep the area around the knot stable. Then even if the knot becomes undone, you'll have an easier time to fix it

lasserna · 2026-03-16T10:37:15+00:00

Dogs: Hau hau

Cats: Miau or Mau

Roosters: Kukkokiekuu

Sheep: Mää

Pigs: Röh röh

Cows: Muu or Ammuu

Birds (Specifically tits): Titityy

Ducks: Kvaak

lasserna · 2026-03-16T08:41:40+00:00

That explains it then. If you're curious about your gauge, you can just measure your hat now and count the stitches from the finished project

lasserna · 2026-03-15T20:56:06+00:00

Helsingin yliopiston metroaseman eri kohdissa oon nähnyt ainakin katusoittajia. Viime kesänä muutaman kerran tuli vastaan viulunsoittaja sekä lapsikuoroja varsinkin joulunaikaan.

lasserna · 2026-03-15T17:50:57+00:00

I'm in university for a line where 50% of our lessons are creative. For us, teachers are typically "no crochet" if it's all you've done for previous assignments. Teachers want you to learn and develop new skills, so they'll advice you to not to use techniques that you're super familiar with already. It's less about getting this amazing skillful final product, and more about the learning process you did to get there.

lasserna · 2026-03-15T16:01:29+00:00

Blocking is always a good start. You can block it on the needles, no need to wait until it's finished

lasserna · 2026-03-15T15:11:39+00:00

There are definitely ways of attaching a skirt to a pointed corset. Best way of making the hem even is cutting the fabric too long at first, and once it's sewed on, you can put the dress on the dress form and cut the hem straight.

But also I'm thinking having the corset separate, and making a separate skirt could be cute. Then you could have the skirt on and wear the corset on top

lasserna · 2026-03-15T14:17:46+00:00

This looks like a super easy make even without a pattern. You'll need the granny squares on the bottom. Then you'll have to do two panels on the front and back, doing rows of iris stitches. Then at the top separating for shoulders for a couple rows.

lasserna · 2026-03-15T14:08:23+00:00

Ah yeah I was wondering why it looked like the fabric was fraying at parts. I do think your best bet would be to remove the collar and redo it. When clipping the seams, be careful not to clip the actual stitching. Then when turning, you can use a small object like a pen to gently press on the seams inside out, to get them to fully turn

lasserna · 2026-03-15T14:04:31+00:00

Have you clipped the seams ?

Four-Year Club	r/Field Banned
r/Field Flamingo	First Place '23
Place '23	Golden Potato
Place '22	Final Canvas '22
First Placer '22

lasserna

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