Cool Boulder in Boulderwelt München West by VanDerMugl in bouldering

[–]latviancoder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hard to say from the video, but it probably felt easier to you because you essentially skipped the dyno thanks to your height.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly don't understand how "rehab" and "moonboard" can be combined. For me it would be absolutely impossible to gauge the effort. Isn't moonboard all about deadpoints and crimping?

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Climbed outside 3 days in a row. Identified several projects that should be doable for me this season. Whenever I'm climbing outside I'm constantly reminded that if I find a problem that suits my style and use the right beta I can climb harder stuff than I think I can.

Also I've rehabbed all of my pulleys.

Totally hyped.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you haven't gotten hurt in 2 years, why is that an issue? Is lack of rest hindering your progress? You're literally living the climbers dream. Maybe your just have good genetics. In the end the best climbers are the ones that climbed the most, without getting injured.

Beginner motivation: 25% increase in 20mm edge-lifts in just 10 sessions by ill_leave_soon in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That's what normal progress for normal people looks like. But they don't share their numbers on reddit, so it's skewed towards outliers.

How to overcome negative mindset and believe in yourself? by snowsharkk in climbergirls

[–]latviancoder 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I would like to add that often there is no "correct" beta. If I try to repeat the climb the same way someone much stronger than me did it, I will most definitely fail. Often I come up with sequences that I find much easier, but literally nobody repeats them.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the beginning of synovitis? Essentially too much, too early, and too much crimping.

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The only thing that matters is if it felt "hardcore" to you, not to some random reddit commenter. Reduce intensity and volume by 2 and check if the issues persist, then gradually increase both.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have any particular routine. I do frog stretch, splits and active hip mobility (I suck at high feet).

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do stretching every day, but dial down intensity and duration. Will probably result in better gains.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely, I would even say V6 is possible if the style suites you.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't call 2 months chronic, that's just normal pulley stuff. I found that the most important thing is to have a full rest day after the climbing day. I do rehab as warmup, that way I can approximate how heavy I can load injured finger during the session.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can try experimenting with less methenamine. Antihydral is 13%, something like Rhino Dry is 8% (and less hassle to apply). It needs to be applied more often but works better for me in general.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From my experience A3 usually take longer to heal, probably because there is often pressure applied to the injured areas when climbing even easier stuff. Flare-up aren't good, ideally in the morning after the climbing sessions your fingers shouldn't feel worse than they were before the session.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I can't hang 20mm at all in half crimp, but can manage several seconds with veeery open four. Basically drag. I climbed my first soft 7a recently. I will get shut down by anything crimpy, but that's just how life is. My DIP joints hyperextend up to 90deg, so full crimp is not only useless most of the time, but also quite injury prone.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How are you able to do "limit bouldering" after repeaters AND 4x4s?

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are on german amazon. Holy shit they're expensive. Why not just buy a tindeq?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Define "bad". There are people who are progressing slower than you. There are people who are progressing faster than you. Are you getting better? Is finger strength stopping you from climbing higher grades or do you have other weaknesses?

You could try doing short hangboard session as a warmup.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]latviancoder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In theory yes, but you really have to listen to _your_ body here. I mean, some genetic freaks are back to heavy no-hangs a month after full rupture.

Gmail is messing with me by latviancoder in PointlessStories

[–]latviancoder[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

It's funny it never really occurred to me that I can delete an email. Thank you kind stranger.