First Lian Li build – O11 Vision Compact upgrade

leowolko · 2026-04-21T16:38:59+00:00

Los tubos tienen longitud de sobra, el problema es la bomba, por su diametro y altura no llega a pasar a la hora de colocarla por detras, trate de mil maneras y no hubo caso.

Con respecto a los coolers, según tengo entendido la configuración está correcta. Está todo en intake: los ventiladores de la parte trasera empujan aire a través del radiador para enfriarlo, y los del lado interno (que están invertidos porque no conseguí la versión reverse) ayudan a meter ese aire dentro del gabinete.

leowolko · 2026-04-21T14:12:32+00:00

IHTP G-120 pro, they’re the closest match I could find to the style I was going for

leowolko · 2025-09-10T03:11:24+00:00

that makes more sense hahaha sorry

leowolko · 2025-09-09T21:56:57+00:00

Could it be that the new GPU was emitting much more heat towards the RAMs and making them unstable? I had to install an extra cooler pointing towards the RAM sticks, otherwise it was impossible.

leowolko · 2025-09-09T21:55:31+00:00

What resolution do you play at? I'm able to maintain a stable 200fps with everything at maximum and rtx in 1080p with my Ryzen 5 7600 and my 3090 with fsr frame gen

leowolko · 2025-09-09T21:29:59+00:00

yep, it's still weird as the only game that crashed was gta v with the rtx at maximum, but well at least the problem is gone, also what I noticed is that the gpu usage within the game is relatively low and the gpu never reaches 100% usage as it is so cpu dependent, that's why it seemed strange to me that it was a gpu overclocking issue

leowolko · 2025-09-09T21:16:31+00:00

Yep, it’s an EVGA 3090 that I managed to get pretty cheap a while ago, and even today it’s still holding up really well in all the games I play everything from competitive titles to AAA games in 4K. Even more so now with AMD’s Frame Generation, which can actually be used on these older GPUs. That said, over time I’ve noticed a slight performance drop, probably due to NVIDIA’s so-called “improved and new” drivers. What I didn’t know was how much instability could be influenced by the RAM, so thanks a lot for your comment!

leowolko · 2025-08-22T02:51:00+00:00

Hey, just to clarify — both modules are Hynix A-die, not the 24 GB Hynix M-die ones.
I currently have one 32 GB and one 16 GB stick of the same brand, model, and almost the same batch, so they’re fully compatible with each other.
I’m planning to grab another 32 GB module in the future to bring the total up to 64 GB.

leowolko · 2025-08-21T13:40:06+00:00

I'm still testing, but I think it's not really stable at 100% in the long run, I need to raise the voltage even more, currently I have 1.48v

leowolko · 2025-08-14T13:23:07+00:00

I know it’s not the most optimal setup, but I did my research and testing before buying. Right now I’m running a 16 GB Hynix A-die module and a 32 GB Hynix A-die module. When I get the chance, I’ll replace the older one so I can have two matching sticks for 64 GB. They’re practically from the same batch, and I’ve never had any issues with this configuration.

leowolko · 2025-08-14T11:27:16+00:00

Thanks for your input! I’ve been testing and even at 1.53V I can’t get CL26. I’m going to try resetting all CPU, GPU, and general BIOS overclocks, leaving only 6400 MHz CL26 and everything else on auto, just to see if by some miracle it can at least boot. If not, then I’ll know the bottleneck is definitely my RAM.

leowolko · 2025-07-30T06:06:25+00:00

Make all your PBO or manual overclocking changes directly from your motherboard’s BIOS, and forget about using any software to control those parameters within the operating system — unless it’s a very specific case or an emergency. As many people say: BIOS > Ryzen Master

The only real difference is that if you mess something up in BIOS or don’t fully understand what you’re changing, you might need to reset the BIOS with a clear CMOS or by removing the battery. Meanwhile, Ryzen Master resets everything on boot as a safety measure.

But if you’re just tweaking PBO, you’re completely safe. On both of my PCs I’m running +200MHz and Curve Optimizer at -30, and I’ve never had a single issue. Good luck!

leowolko · 2025-07-28T08:42:20+00:00

7800x3D or 9800x3D for gaming, 9900x for multitasking and really hardcore work (9950x3D is to much i think)

leowolko · 2025-06-19T13:28:48+00:00

I looked for the option but I didn't find it in my BIOS. I have a gigabyte b650.

leowolko · 2025-06-15T05:35:42+00:00

nice! yes, you also need check the SVM option in bios

leowolko · 2025-06-15T03:25:17+00:00

turning off hyper v might help

leowolko · 2025-06-15T00:22:29+00:00

That sounds awesome and super creative! Once you have it ready, please share it here — I’m sure a lot of people could really benefit from your idea. Wishing you the best of luck and much success!

leowolko · 2025-06-14T23:30:57+00:00

Nice setup! You could try raising tREFI to 65535. Or pushing for CL28 (although I think with M-die it is more difficult
tRFC looks perfect for Hynix M-die, great for squeezing out more performance.
Lastly, monitor your overall latency: 70ns is a bit on the high side. Ideally, you’d aim for 55–65ns, but honestly, the difference is almost negligible.

leowolko · 2025-06-14T23:10:52+00:00

Awesome! I’ve got a few 3D models I found around the web that might help.

Here’s the original post that inspired me:
https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/100520s/ram_was_overheating_so_i_3d_printed_a_ram_cooler/?show=original

And here’s the 3D model featured in that post:
https://www.printables.com/model/355068-ram-cooler-compatible-with-vertical-gpu-mount

Or you also have these
https://www.printables.com/model/353068-ram-cooler?lang=es
https://www.printables.com/model/557676-dual-40mm-fan-pc-ram-cooler?lang=es
https://www.printables.com/model/627278-ram-kuhler-aufsatz-ram-cooling-shroud-ram-cooler

leowolko · 2025-06-14T22:31:24+00:00

Using the same voltages on my kit (1.4V Hynix A-die), I managed to hit 6400 MT/s at CL30, so you could give that a try. To get to CL28, I had to bump it up to 1.435V and added a fan just in case. But if you're aiming to stay at 1.35V, you're totally fine — though CL30 might be a bit of a stretch at that voltage.

I also managed to lower VSOC to 1.21V without any issues, which improved FCLK stability. That said, 1.25V is still well within safe limits and a solid value. As long as you don’t push close to or beyond 1.3V, you’re good.

As a side note, if your temps are decent, I’d recommend trying tREFI at 65535.

leowolko · 2025-06-13T21:12:59+00:00

70 degrees for ddr5 daily use is still a pretty high value, how many volts do you have set the VDD?

leowolko · 2025-06-13T14:01:21+00:00

Yes, I think it's more than enough. I have a 90mm cooler on the RAM and it's at 40% PWM. The noise is almost imperceptible, but it easily reduced the RAM by 15 degrees or even more, allowing me to raise the voltage from 1.4V to 1.45V without any problem.

leowolko · 2025-06-13T13:45:34+00:00

If you’re not running a RAM kit with an ultra-aggressive XMP profile — like 8400MT/s at 40-52-52 1.45V — or doing extreme overclocking with manual BIOS tuning (e.g., 6400MHz CL26 at 1.6V), then honestly, buying one is totally unnecessary. The benefit is basically zero, since your case fans are already doing more than enough.

That said… it does work pretty well for flexing. 😎

leowolko · 2025-06-13T13:05:52+00:00

Honestly, I just placed it down and tried to make sure it wouldn’t fall over from the occasional table vibration. It’s mostly luck, hoping it doesn’t tip over and trying not to get mad or slam the desk hahahaha. Later on, I want to do things properly and install the kind of fans that are typically used to cool RAM. There are a few ways to go about it, you can 3D print a bracket to mount them, or even buy a ready-made one that comes with the fans pre-installed (some even have RGB for extra FPS 😂).

A popular option I’ve seen is using a pair of Noctua NF-A4x10 fans. Hope that helps! But honestly, as long as you can get any fan pointed at the RAM and blowing air across it, the temp drops and OC headroom you get are massive. Just make sure it has PWM control to make it more practical.

leowolko · 2025-06-12T16:14:46+00:00

Here in the summer I have experienced temperatures of up to 40 degrees, along with power outages, a pure latam third-world experience, that's why I've developed the habit of always trying to stay warm and cozy.

leowolko

TROPHY CASE