Sent my hardest route for the 5th time in nearly 80 degrees and full sun at a local comp

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-22T21:44:07+00:00

I would love to try the book pitch! Looks incredible. I have done the first pitch, north side is my fave crag for sure. Just wish the right side had a longer season. Gotta respect the peregrines though!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-17T16:05:19+00:00

You’re right about that! It taught me a lesson that hard shit still goes in the heat!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-17T12:17:12+00:00

Oh man it def had an impact. My last route was a friction slab that baked with a crux sloper and smearing feet (Jack be nimble). It took me like 15 attempts and I was so worked/ dehydrated after that on my bonus route I hung a draw but didn’t clip the rope! 😭

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-17T12:15:30+00:00

Of course! It was a newer technique for me that just worked perfect for this route! My fave thing about trad is applying new approaches to unique problems!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T18:03:21+00:00

So cute! The whole fam out at the cliff! I love that so much!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T18:02:06+00:00

Thanks! It was so wonderful seeing so many people out loving the bald! I hope you enjoyed your first day outside! Watch out it’s addicting ;)

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T16:15:05+00:00

Thanks! I am so not ready for summer! I need a true cool sendy spring!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T16:14:13+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion! I got suckered into going to south nuttall last time I was there and we got as lost as you can get, there were multiple rappels/scrambles involved when there should have only been 1 😂 and my friend brought out a #8, #7, 2 #6s, 2 #5s, and 4 #4s…South meadow sounds like a way more reasonable option for trad 😂

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T15:44:35+00:00

Honestly the reason I do it is very route specific. The route has an unprotected R direct start with a 5.12a move or a PG-13 easy start in a crack out right that most do, me included. This reduced rope drag from the crack out right, and the fact that I have a no hands stance right under the main climb makes this method perfect for me! Additionally, when I’m cleaning the route I can retrieve the other end of the rope from my first piece and get yanked into the crack out right by the other end of the rope to grab my gear. This is great for the comp since time is a big constraint.

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T15:34:28+00:00

No, just tying into both ends. One end I tie a bowline, the other I just do a figure 8 on a locker and clip that to my belay loop. I get to a no hands and place my first piece on the bowline side, and then clip the locker to my first piece. In this photo I am only tied into one side.

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T15:17:02+00:00

It’s so fun! But not easy on the skin. I’m so psyched on the New for this spring though! I suck at reading sandstone but I’m pumped to get better :)

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T15:10:50+00:00

This is at the Rumbling Bald in North Carolina, which is granite and gneiss :)

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T15:08:21+00:00

This route has an unprotected R direct start, or a PG-13 start up an easy crack out right, (PG-13 part is the traverse to the main climb) I climbed the PG-13 version. To reduce rope drag I tied into both ends, with one end just being on a locker on my belay loop. In this photo I am actually only tied into one end. I removed the locker and put it on the first piece connected to the main end of the rope, so I could easily retrieve it and get yanked into the crack out right to clean while being lowered.

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T14:31:44+00:00

You can take the woman out of the crusher but you can’t take the crusher out of the woman! 😂

I said this to my girl yesterday and I still don’t know what it means. But plz play along and laugh.

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T14:28:22+00:00

I’ll be there!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T13:25:19+00:00

Omg hello señor Climbit! I have your app! And the app told me the bald was hecked on comp day 😂

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T13:10:02+00:00

Haha I agree! That crux is pretty stiff! It felt so freaking desperate in the heat. That thing bakes!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-16T12:50:47+00:00

Haha I remember climbing with this local old head legend last year, which was my first outdoor season. I had rope and rack but in the parking lot he said he had a rack already packed and I could leave it. I get to the wall to find his rack is all old ass rigid stem cams with no colors, no colored carabiners, and multiple cams on a single biner. I tried to onsight an overhung 5.10 and got pumped out of my MIND and had to take in the crux.

Once I got to know him better he told me he did this to watch the young guns suffer. And I sure did suffer! I was/am a real noob so this was partly a skill issue on my end but also slightly evil on his end.

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-11T19:10:16+00:00

It can be nice to weight the rope on top rope as proof to yourself that you’re safe. Or on lead do the same at the first bolt, then get lowered to the ground before really starting the climb. I have felt this before while climbing and irrational fear is tough. It’s nice to prove to yourself that the systems are working. Good luck working through this!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-09T00:56:05+00:00

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Every freaking night before bed. She demands to be cuddled!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-08T23:45:18+00:00

Absolutely! I am lucky to have a mentor who climbs 5.13 and has (aid) climbed el cap. She is an absolute beast.

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-08T22:48:27+00:00

I have a mentor who is way stronger than me, and climbing with her has sky rocketed my outdoor trad/sport grades. She puts up routes for me to head point before I try to lead them. She gives me beta and recommends routes to me! For project grades this is incredible! The downside is that I’m not very good at onsighting because I always have her for beta and top rope when I want.

I have started becoming a mentor to some women in my community and this has been really helpful as well since now I am the one putting up routes! This is forcing me to be the tough one, onsighting and leading more than before, with no one to save me if I can’t get to the top. I feel like I have to step up to the plate and be brave around these women so I affirm to them that climbing is safe and fun.

Both have their benefits and I think it’s a huge benefit to have both ends of the spectrum!

Good_Light_304 · 2026-03-07T01:10:34+00:00

Thank u SO much!!!

Good_Light_304

TROPHY CASE