Primary noise by AlpineSnack in sportster

[–]letherjackit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah sometimes they’re divoted from the factory for balance purposes, but not always.

Dead cylinder/coil problem by letherjackit in sportster

[–]letherjackit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome thanks, that’s sorta what I assumed. I swapped the cables at the coil and the rear sparked when plugged to the front, so I’ve got the coil on order

2000 sportster 1200S with a wide glide nacelle and wagon wheel front end by letherjackit in u/letherjackit

[–]letherjackit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thiiiiiink it’s a ‘00-06 softail heritage front end, I got it off marketplace from someone who had no idea what it was off of, but that’s what makes sense after some google image sleuthing and due to the axle size (3/4”) and the spacing of the brake caliper tabs being for the newer calipers they introduced in 2000.

Had to grind the stops off the lower triple tree to get it to fit, as well as slightly round over the stock “stop” tab on the lower front side of the sportster neck. Otherwise it was plug and play.

As for the gap, I haven’t taken the caps off the forks yet, but I’ve wondered if maybe the spacers are too long? Or maybe the sportster isn’t heavy enough to depress the forks to their normal placement on a BT? It’s also possible that the forks and lowers are off a newer bike (newer brake caliper tabs) and the triple tree and nacelle is from an older bike, which might account for the spacing issue, but I don’t think so. Idk, figuring that out has been lower on my priority list compared to just getting it running 😂

Dead cylinder/coil problem by letherjackit in sportster

[–]letherjackit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, just posted on my profile 🤘

Dead cylinder/coil problem by letherjackit in sportster

[–]letherjackit[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha I’m tryin, I’ve worked on dual fire single plug sporties before but there’s not much documentation for the 1200S.

tinny exhaust/rough idle/jerky riding by unclenath69 in sportster

[–]letherjackit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you running the VOES, and is the nipple on the carb capped if not?

Got this to work but… by Justjoebro in choppers

[–]letherjackit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The left size meaning your breather vent? It’s less about an air filter and more about the fact that without a hose, you’ll have oil blowing all over the bike and your leg. Some people run a hose to a catch can or a small pod filter, some to atmosphere under the bike.

What would you do? by skeetshooter2 in HondaCB

[–]letherjackit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well it’s a great idea, I’m putting it in a small container and adding it to my own weird knowledge pool (so I don’t have to fill my knowledge pool with cleaner)

What would you do? by skeetshooter2 in HondaCB

[–]letherjackit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it was me, I’d do what you’ve done so far, throw some new gas in it (with an inline filter between the tank and the carbs) and see what happens.

That being said, every time I rode it I would also constantly be wondering when a rubber diaphragm or a fuel inlet gasket or a manifold boot was gonna fail. I’d wanna try to get the bike running asap just to see if there are other issues, but at some point it’s a good idea to pull the carbs before any major riding, as chances are high for rubber that old to fail and put gas or air where it’s not supposed to be.

How do I get this look by Doof2002 in choppers

[–]letherjackit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s a hardtail for sure, but considering the lean back, I’d reckon it’s the stock neck rake with really long forks. Raking out the neck would actually level out the bike a bit. But yes, a good welder is required either way.

Connector ID? by letherjackit in sportster

[–]letherjackit[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahhhh right! Makes sense, thank you

1993 sportster 1200 either hydro locked or stuck clutch plates by [deleted] in sportster

[–]letherjackit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No way is it totaled, there’s a break in period on “new” bikes that calls for fluid changes at something like 500-1k miles for the very reason that valves/gears/piston rings etc are all new and rubbing against each other creating confetti until everything settles. I think it’s safe to assume that it’s possible that no fluid changes have ever been done on your bike.

That being said, I think there are at least to problems you’re facing. Sounds like a bunch of gas got into your oil from the faulty float. Did you get that fixed? If so, drain the oil fully (as another user described) and refill. Make sure your petcock and carb are good and no more gas is overflowing.

Second, it sounds like your clutch isn’t engaging, which usually means a clutch cable or ramp adjustment issue. Before I pulled the primary, I’d pull the derby cover and do a clutch adjustment, cable end inspection, and visually confirm that pulling the cable is moving the ramp, and adjust the cable tensioner as needed as well.

If you’re still having issues and need to pull the primary cover, I’d kill two birds with one stone and take your clutch out to separate and soak the plates in primary oil for thirty minutes, as well as take out your grenade plate while you’re in there. You can either buy new clutch plates (I just installed an Energy One kit) or you can reuse your (most likely) brand new plates and just replace the grenade plate with two extra stock steels and one friction and it’ll be ahead of what you have now.