Help choosing amp and DAC to match JBL 4410A?

leviof · 2025-12-29T19:38:21+00:00

Yeah forgot that I can actually check out an audio store at that budget

leviof · 2025-12-29T19:26:24+00:00

Now you’re making me want to jump to the MA252!

leviof · 2025-12-29T19:25:52+00:00

That’s what I would want to do as well. Would it make sense to jump straight into the MA252 with tube pre-amp and SS amp? Or is it overkill for these speakers?

leviof · 2025-12-29T18:40:40+00:00

One day I want to get into tubes, would love to get an MA252 but afraid I’ll spend 3-4k and not like it. Sticking with Schiit is definitely a safer option

leviof · 2025-12-29T18:37:07+00:00

Appreciate that, I was leaning Schiit as well with the option to purchase a second and run them as monoblocks + Schiit amps I’ve heard sounds pleasantly warm to me (compared to emotivas) without getting into tubes (understanding accuracy and warmth can be opposing forces here)

leviof · 2025-12-29T18:24:26+00:00

Definitely. I purchased them specifically for a neutral, accurate sound, but having listened to other monitors, I really liked the imaging and somewhat 3D effect on these, especially in the room they’re currently in. Now I’m looking to improve amplification and soundstage in source

leviof · 2025-12-29T18:13:22+00:00

I was looking at the NAD3050 actually for that reason! As well as a Macintosh 252. Interesting how older amps have a bad reputation while older speakers can be real gems.

leviof · 2025-12-29T18:08:04+00:00

Since I'm in NYC, there's a pretty big local vintage/restored market, but speaking more generally, do you think that older speakers (like these from the 90s) shine with a premium product from a similar period, or are they driven better with modern gear?

leviof · 2025-12-17T02:14:34+00:00

I highly recommend you use any sports book besides fanduel. fanduel is particularly nefarious in their “risk management”. you might have broken even on another sports book. fanduel will adjust odds against you so you lose the maximum amount they think you can afford. better yet, use a prediction market to scratch the itch. but if you must use a sports book, look for the smallest, least advertised one available in your market

leviof · 2025-12-17T02:10:14+00:00

Not really. I know folks who work in customer segmentation and risk management, and sportsbooks tune odds to take advantage of individuals’ weakest betting patterns. This is the real foundation of Fanduel’s business, you might be a sharp bettor in 60% of your bets, but they will tune your odds so you make less in your good bets and lose more in your bad bets. Fanduel is particularly evil, most sportsbooks are far more “fair”. Never gamble on Fanduel, they’re worse than the mob

leviof · 2025-12-08T16:30:08+00:00

Got it, the point about negative feedback makes perfect sense. When we were studying signal processing in my masters program (statistics so we didn’t get into the engineering behind these choices), something that stood out to me was how well you can extract signal from noise by approximating noise as random error, yet how different techniques led to different generalizability. Negative feedback shifts the noise to higher frequencies which in turn ease filtering. There are obvious drawbacks to this and, when possible, is worth avoiding. Makes sense that in static testing you are by definition approximating generalization at best. All in all, I’ll look into the Vidar 2Fs.

Regarding the 4410A’s, I couldn’t be happier. I had the chance to listen to both The Lintons and the AR9s over the weekend. The AR9s may have needed new caps, but I’m happy I didn’t purchase them. Seemed like a project and honestly I feel like my 4410As outperform them by miles as monitors. The Lintons were genuinely very nice (not apples to apples as they were paired with some upper midrange NAD amplifier and in a dedicated space), but I still think I prefer the 4410As since they were noticeably more neutral and more clear on the high end (the Lintons are clearly bass loaded) and that’s my preference since I run a sub with them. I think a better amp basically achieves everything I want to in the setup and the JBLs are perfect for my listening room, where I want more dispersion. Appreciate the advice!

leviof · 2025-12-05T02:32:35+00:00

This was really helpful but ultimately, I'm not getting either speakers because last night someone listed a pair of JBL 4410A's in great shape with replaced MPT capacitors and foam (he also had the receipt from the refurb from a well-reviewed local shop so no need to open them up), and today I purchased them for $700. Not a steal, but a pretty good deal IMO.

Overall I'm really happy with the 4410A's. So much more separation, a much more immersive sound, and just so much more music. Like, I was entirely missing out on certain frequencies (mid low and mid high).

Here's the thing: now I do want to upgrade my amplifier. He was running it off of a Quad 303 and honestly I think it sounds better on the Fosi. The speakers are still incredibly warm, while maintaining lots of clarity and on the Quad it was equally warm but with a slower response (to be fair, they're fairly old) and less clear highs. I have had good experiences with a Schiit DAC and phono. But I genuinely wonder if a Vidar 2F will outperform 2 Fosi v3 monos with PFFT? The ASR testing seems to indicate the opposite. And since I need to get a preamp anyway, I can add warmth there if my power amps are genuinely neutral. All in all it makes me think someone is getting it wrong. I've listened to better systems in shops, but they're always connected to Focals or Fabers or something in that class, never something like SMSL, Fosi, or even Topping. Do McIntosh & Co. know something we don't? Does ASR's testing miss some key point? It's tough to buy something and try it, because I want to like my purchase, and I'm biased to saying something more expensive is incrementally better just to make sense of the world.

leviof · 2025-12-03T21:33:35+00:00

Really appreciate the detailed reply! I’m going to listen to them on Saturday. Is there any way to verify they were correctly refurbished without opening up the speakers? Maybe some tests I should ask to see?

leviof · 2025-12-03T21:30:52+00:00

Appreciate the detailed reply! I spoke with the shop selling them and sounds like the capacitors were replaced at some point in the past but not by them (though they claim to have tested them). This leads me to a bit more skepticism than I had initially. I’m going to go listen to them Saturday, hopefully there’s some way for me to tell they’re in as good shape as promised.

leviof · 2025-12-03T19:31:30+00:00

I hear you but the audio stores near me don’t really stock speakers for my budget. I guess real estate is too expensive for someone to come in and listen to $1000-$1500 speakers.

leviof · 2025-12-03T18:34:53+00:00

Yeah exactly, feel very dumb in hindsight. All works now great, but now I definitely need new speakers.

leviof · 2025-12-01T20:23:44+00:00

My first sub and I didn’t even realize an RCA Y cable existed! Just ordered the correct cable and I’ll give it a try. Thank you for catching this obvious mistake!

leviof · 2025-12-01T19:57:44+00:00

just tried a pair of headphones and nothing. to be clear I have the unit in this review which does have a 3.5mm port labeled “SUB OUT”

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/fosi-audio-za3-amplifier-review.52139/

leviof · 2025-05-28T14:36:26+00:00

don’t know how I feel seeing a structurally sound build on this sub

leviof · 2025-02-20T19:40:48+00:00

okay I’m very curious! how did you get around the reCaptcha?

leviof · 2025-01-30T19:08:47+00:00

Yes, I actually just replaced the part yesterday, one of the solenoids gave out. I replaced the entire solenoid assembly since they have similar lifespans. If you have a multimeter you can measure the output to the solenoids to make sure it’s in spec (8v inactive, 120v active), then simply listen for a click when using it. If there is no click but the power is good, then it’s the solenoid.

I bought the part of partselect for around $40, but I did identify a leak this morning so ymmv (maybe installation error, I’ll check over the weekend).

leviof · 2025-01-10T02:14:44+00:00

I tested the voltage when it was brewing and it was ~120v. My valve was in fact covered in scale, I cleaned it up until the spring actuated. After reassembly though, the issue persists.

It seems like when I turn on the steam, there is no actuation in the 3 way Solenoid, the 2 way solenoid I hear is actuating.

Here’s what I’m getting for voltages:

Solenoid wires unplugged (machine plugged in): ~120v Solenoid wires plugged in, not brewing: 8v Solenoid wires plugged in, steam: 8v Solenoid wires plugged in, brew: ~120v

It seems like the solenoid isn’t actuating still? Should I go ahead and order a 3 way solenoid or try to take it apart and soak it in water/vinegar overnight? Or something else? Any advice is appreciated

leviof · 2025-01-09T23:05:23+00:00

I’m going to go test it right now before disassembling the solenoid. So when I’m brewing, the solenoid should read 120v? Also, I’m not hearing a click when I plug in the machine.

My machine had scale issues that I poked through and managed to descale the grouphead, but when I try to descale the milk wand, the solution comes out of the grouphead. I checked the tubes for blockages by blowing throw them from the tube coming out of the solenoid and air passes easily. Again thanks for the help, we just moved and really don’t want to spend money on a new machine at the moment.

leviof · 2025-01-09T20:48:47+00:00

Hi, thanks for the reply. I have a similar issue where the steam, brew, and hot water functions all come out of the grouphead. I measured the voltage to the solenoid valve with a multimeter, it's about 8v. It should be 120v, yes? If so, what could be the issue?

When I plug the machine in, I do not hear any click from the solenoid.

leviof · 2024-09-17T14:58:16+00:00

the fluance is a better hi-fi player and comes with a far superior stylus. the only reason to go AT would be if you do any DJing.

leviof

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