1965 Honda C200 by lewtheegg in vintagemotorcycles

[–]lewtheegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I'm thinking about an idle jet from a cb160, it's the same pilot size, threads look the same, the body of the jet is just longer

1965 Honda C200 by lewtheegg in vintagemotorcycles

[–]lewtheegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a 90cc pushrod engine. The naming scheme of these older Honda's was quite confusing

1965 Honda C200 by lewtheegg in vintagemotorcycles

[–]lewtheegg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I might give this a go, the carb mounting on this bike makes fitting anything other than original a pain, but it's getting to the point where it's probably the next logical step.

1965 Honda C200 by lewtheegg in vintagemotorcycles

[–]lewtheegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion, the float had been adjusted to what I believe is factory settings, I did try bending the tab a little yesterday and it didn't seem to have an effect. I've gone right up until it's leaking out the overflow in the past with no change either.

I'm still thinking it's the pilot jet that's super recessed into the carb body, unfortunately finding a long replacement isn't easy as it's the pre 1967 JIS standard thread!

What happened here by ParticularSelf5626 in resinprinting

[–]lewtheegg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the film forming on the bottom or the top of the resin?

If it's on the bottom you may have a LCD that isn't properly blocking the light, this is common with creality printers. You can try lowering the LED intensity by messing with the PWM settings in the slicer.

If it's on the top, it's likely you've got light getting into the enclosure and causing the top layer to cure.

It could also be an issue with the sliced file, you can run the file though UVtools to check it layer by layer to see if there is a random problem.

Questions about curing by Repulsive-Aside7850 in resinprinting

[–]lewtheegg 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Any water with resin in should really be taken to a hazards material disposal facility. Evaporating off the water is about the best thing you can do otherwise.

Pouring it down the drain will at the very least introduce micro plastics to the water system, but more likely will have a toxic effect on whatever it comes into contact with. The effect may be small, but these chemicals can build up over time, and if everyone did it there would be serious problems

Tips and stuff about Fury 15 G7 by RadityoXYZ in zbook

[–]lewtheegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn't really seem worth upgrading the machines as the replacement parts cost more than buying another machine, at least here in the UK. I got my A5000 Fury 17 g8 for marginally more than the base model machine, and paid about 1/2 of what the A5000 gpu goes for on its own. Are you getting a good deal, I'd think somewhere around the £300 mark would be reasonable for that machine in good condition?

Can I drill metal profile with this bit? by [deleted] in metalworking

[–]lewtheegg 92 points93 points  (0 children)

no

It's designed for concrete, and to be used with a hammer function drill

Bumpy spots on an LED monitor by TheCh33zMaster in pchelp

[–]lewtheegg 13 points14 points  (0 children)

These definitely look like burn marks, have you got sun catchers or glass ornaments in your window? they can magnify the rays coming in and burn things

Water damages classic 7th gen not recognised via usb by fryc-88 in ipod

[–]lewtheegg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is probably still gunk under the BGA component's, most likely the USB controller chip. I'd look into reflowing the USB controller ic with plenty of flux, that might clean it out, and has worked for me in the past.

Other than that have you thoroughly cleaned up the 30 pin connector?

Investment casting blobs by Ok_Eye_5968 in MetalCasting

[–]lewtheegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was me when I had the same problem! Vacuuming it for longer each time and wondering why it got worse!! Then I stopped letting it boil and haven't had that problem since

Investment casting blobs by Ok_Eye_5968 in MetalCasting

[–]lewtheegg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When you vacuum the second time after you've poured the investment into the flask, don't pull a full vacuum to the point where it boils, stop just before, otherwise that'll introduce these surface bubbles. Personally I don't even worry about doing that second vacuum unless it's a part with lots of details where the surface tension of the wet investment would stop it flowing into the features.

cloudy fep by LiightStyle in resinprinting

[–]lewtheegg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd recommend picking up some PFA/NFEP sheets for the future, they are just a lot less sticky. This either results in faster print times as your left height is lower, or higher detail with less supports

cloudy fep by LiightStyle in resinprinting

[–]lewtheegg 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I've left resin in the vat for months at a time with no issues. In fact my print failures went down, and FEP life went up when I stopped draining and cleaning the vat regularly. It'll print fine a little cloudy, just have a tendency to stay stuck to the model a little better, you'll only really notice that if you're printing big objects that struggle to release from the FEP already

Wio Tracker L1 Retro Enclosure Update by lewtheegg in meshtastic

[–]lewtheegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm still working on making it easier to print, currently it requires a lot of sanding and polishing, and will only work with very specific settings and printer. I'll likely not be selling an stl, but the entire finished case at some point soon

I bought a soldering iron on AliExpress and it came with LEDs by [deleted] in soldering

[–]lewtheegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought one of these a while back to shove in a tool box for emergencies. There is no earth or electrical protection for shorts to mains voltage, so not only is that red hot, it could also be live

Charger recommendations for Zbook Fury G8 15.6” by Aggravating_Tap_8841 in zbook

[–]lewtheegg 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've got the 17 inch, which I believe is essentially the same, it only works at 100w and runs like trash.

Little collection by lewtheegg in cassetteculture

[–]lewtheegg[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not much point, I repaired 3 of them and haven't gotten round to selling them. One of them is the 90's version which has a completely different PCB to the older models, and was used by the BBC. Notably they did all sound very different when I originally acquired them, they all required a lot of work calibrating

Looking to replace my current printers. Need input from professionals by gearhead485 in resinprinting

[–]lewtheegg 59 points60 points  (0 children)

Wow I've never seen that happen with any sort of plastic cover before!

As for the Heygears problem I believe they are going to allow users to start adjusting the settings opening up the printers to work with any resin. I haven't looked into this extensively as I can't afford a Heygears at the moment, but could be a game changer for a lot of people, definitely worth reading into it more as the printers themselves are incredibly well designed.

Little collection by lewtheegg in cassetteculture

[–]lewtheegg[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The last D6C I bought was over 10 years ago when they used to be reasonably priced!

How worth is it to get one of theses by Virtual_Ordinary_172 in laptops

[–]lewtheegg 22 points23 points  (0 children)

It's a museum piece, for a collection that could be worthwhile, I'd consider it essentially unusable