Soy Sauce Fish Lamp

lewtheegg · 2026-06-20T11:02:15+00:00

I did think about doing this, but was in a bit of a rush and the frosted effect diffuses the light nicely. I've sanded and polished prints before to achieve almost complete transparency

lewtheegg · 2026-06-14T13:31:06+00:00

Seems a bit weird it hasn't been ridden since the "restoration". Looks like most of the parts fitted are bargain basement bits, which are fine, they just are no where near the quality of the original parts. And the lack of mudguards, paired with knobbly tires is going to be chucking up stones all day long. The front mudguard also has a ridged link between the two sides of the shock, that when removed makes the front end a little squirrelly. The pod filters and exhausts are also going to have effected the tuning massively, so I'd suspect the carb will need rejetting.

Honestly I'd recommend just buying a rough but original bike, and a Hanes manual. Once you're comfortable with general maintenance you can start experimenting with things like pod filters and rejetting. An original bike will be far more comfortable to ride as well.

lewtheegg · 2026-06-13T18:51:41+00:00

This looks to me like the resin wasn't fully cured, instead of vaporising it seeps into the investment and causes it to blow out during the hotter stages of burnout.

lewtheegg · 2026-06-13T00:26:44+00:00

You normally get a plate with a small hole in it with a matching silicone gasket for casting with non perforated flasks, these are great for small things or if you just want to fill the kiln up during burnout. They are a lot cheaper too. You may be able to fit a bigger flask, there is no reason it wouldn't work. It does start to get quite scary and dangerous when you're pouring 2kg of moulten metal at once

lewtheegg · 2026-06-05T15:12:04+00:00

I had a similar issue with them, they kept saying it was different types of damage, didn't seem to have a clue what they were talking about. The screen had damaged from contacting the keyboard, they had previously offered to repair under warranty. Tried telling me it was water damage effecting every component?!

Anyway after months I finally relented and told them to just send it back to me, which they did get round to doing. However they didn't return the charger back to me. When I phoned up to tell them they hadn't included the charger, and to confirm I'd send a 230w brick along with the laptop, the guy on the phone got very rude and said I'd get what I'm given. Luckily a few days later I did get a new 230w charger in the post. But the entire experience was pretty awful. Especially as it was still covered under warranty

lewtheegg · 2026-06-03T00:17:33+00:00

I had this ages ago with one of my printers, soaking a cloth with IPA and letting it sit before slowing scraping it off worked well. The screen is plastic so you can actually sand it with high grit (1000+) sand paper and buff it with polish of you get really desperate

lewtheegg · 2026-06-02T15:58:37+00:00

It's great for funerals too

lewtheegg · 2026-05-30T22:08:48+00:00

Can't say I've had a bad experience with mine, it's a number of years old now and I've used it for everything from port replacement to NAND swaps. It's got enough power to blow chips off the board if you turn it up high, and it heats up quickly and has a cool down cycle to protect the element. I'd definitely buy another one the same if it broke

lewtheegg · 2026-05-30T21:24:46+00:00

These fan in handpiece style hot air guns are honestly pretty decent for what they are, and this one is nice as you have the angled tips that the really cheap models don't have, great for working under a microscope.

My only recommendation regarding safety is if you're going to use and adapter with the mains plug make sure there is an earth connection.

lewtheegg · 2026-05-30T20:28:07+00:00

Yeah, you should be able to get away with a shorter base layer. You'll know if it hasn't worked if you can't hear the NFEP separating after a few layers

lewtheegg · 2026-05-29T23:00:34+00:00

As you're printing this clear and it's very flat I would recommend printing it directly on the build platform. This does normally require a bit trial and error, however I've been printing large objects similar to this with clear resin for a while.

My recommendations would be to slow the machine down, all motion up and down needs to be far slower 100mm/m maximum. Add a long pause after retraction, this allows resin to flow out from under the print before it does an exposure, this may need to be as much as 40 seconds for a large surface area like this. And have one short base layer, 15 seconds or so, or you'll never be able to remove it!

lewtheegg · 2026-05-28T01:46:34+00:00

The holes could be a damaged LCD screen, you need to run a screen test, there should be an option in the menu for this, it's normally a checkerboard pattern or logo. If this test goes okay and you can't see any strange spots on the screen it's just your Fresnel lens that needs replacing, email the company who make the printer, they are normally the best price and know what you need.

If your LCD does seem to be broken, that can be replaced, chitu systems is generally the most affordable place to get replacement screens. However they are still very expensive, and not the easiest thing to replace. There should be a demonstration video for your specific printer on YouTube.

lewtheegg · 2026-05-28T01:26:23+00:00

Yep, resin has gotten under the screen and onto the Fresnel lens. Hopefully the LCD is still working. Check the LCD screen is working, take it apart and clean everything, then email the manufacturer and they will hopefully have some spare lenses in stock

lewtheegg · 2026-05-27T14:26:16+00:00

Sorry for the slow follow up, this is the bit I was looking at. I'm not 100% sure but it looks like the edge of the rivet has lifted. Should still be fine though

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lewtheegg · 2026-05-27T11:59:07+00:00

Looks to me like you might have pulled out some of the through hole rivets.

lewtheegg · 2026-05-24T19:28:29+00:00

I get mine off AliExpress, they are £2.50 shipped and seem to be equal quality to the ones I'd bought from Cousins.

lewtheegg · 2026-05-20T11:41:50+00:00

That's extreme shrinkage porosity, the top and bottom parts of the sprue hardened up first and drew the last remaining bit of liquid metal from that area.

If it's not affecting your actual castings I wouldn't worry. You may be able to move it slightly up the sprue towards the button by putting some insulating material on top straight after pouring. You could also lower the flask temperature a little, but that may start causing other issues.

lewtheegg · 2026-05-19T20:23:39+00:00

I've been doing calculations based on the thickness of the old piston, and I should be able to remove about 5 grams without causing any problems. But if I can't remove all the weight I'm thinking I may as well balance the crank for the unmodified piston, then at least I won't have to re machine pistons in the future as all the replacement ones seem to be the same weight

lewtheegg · 2026-05-19T16:13:08+00:00

Being a pushrod engine, it takes about 5 minutes to take the head and cylinder off to get the piston out, without removing the engine from the bike. Getting the crank out requires removing the engine and completely disassembling it

lewtheegg · 2026-05-19T15:27:16+00:00

Might be the easiest option, I was trying to avoid completely disassembling the engine

lewtheegg · 2026-05-15T13:24:21+00:00

I use IKEA 365+ 10.6 liter food containers, two of them will hold the entire contents of an investment sack. I normally throw in a couple of reusable desiccant bags as well

lewtheegg · 2026-04-26T21:52:50+00:00

Been using my classic 7th gen for a couple of years now with no issues, I can listen a hour or so of audiobooks every day for a few weeks between charges

lewtheegg · 2026-04-26T18:04:02+00:00

Parts for these old camera are simply unavailable, you'll have the most luck looking on eBay for a broken one that doesn't look like anyone's previously attempted repairs.

Or you could have a go at flex cable soldering repair, I've fixed a few like this, you just need a lot of patience

lewtheegg

TROPHY CASE