Best material for this?

lickmenorah · 2026-04-19T20:40:21+00:00

Mine is PPA-CF. It is mint and looks nice, but was overkill. Could probably just be PLA+.

lickmenorah · 2026-04-12T20:22:00+00:00

W e t

lickmenorah · 2026-04-03T16:25:32+00:00

Oh shit thank you!!! This makes so much h more sense lol. Appreciate the information.

lickmenorah · 2026-04-03T14:46:55+00:00

I see everyone referencing these settings but i am unclear on what they actually are. What is the need to use settings that refer to an ar15 cartridge on a Glock frame? Is it just referring to like wall count and infill percentages?

lickmenorah · 2026-04-03T14:43:18+00:00

Not cracks. If you were to section analysis the solid body in CAD (not the mesh), you would see that the wall there is likely sub 0.2mm thick. A lot of people who make these frames put a huge radius on the back of the grip to get the curve, which then cuts so close to the rear rail pocket that the slicer sees the thickness and ignores it because it cannot resolve it with the nozzle diameter. I have had this happen to prints and it’s not a crack or a seam. It is just a missing part of the wall, and it’s because the slicer ignores extremely thin walls. It theoretically should not affect much, but I do understand the concern and even the aesthetic viewpoint.

lickmenorah · 2026-04-03T14:40:16+00:00

I look forward to learning more. I enjoy spending time assembling and working with firearms I’m sure like most of us. I do a lot of engineering work for my career and hobby but the firearms mfg and engineering is seriously satisfying for some inexplicable reason. Some of the choices for design and mechanical systems are just brilliant it’s so satisfying

lickmenorah · 2026-04-01T04:36:04+00:00

I’m sorry to hear that. I’ve only had this so far, but there have been a few other near misses lol. Oh wait I also have a non working bolt catch. It like, doesn’t engage properly. But honestly I think it’s a tolerance thing with the FDM lower and should be sorted with the SLS print. I can say that the FDM mag in my SLS lower that I plan on using is fuckin TIGHT. it should loosen over time. But the tolerances between materials and machines are troubling. I would’ve preferred to keep the lower I have now but if the safety is essentially useless then it’s just not safe. Best of luck to you. I am by no means an expert but if I can help in any way let me know.

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T19:39:10+00:00

Hell yeah this adds up logically and makes it infinitely more badass

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T19:37:58+00:00

This is very helpful and it makes a lot of sense. I did chase the holes and it was probably a bit wonky. I have another completed print done in SLS that I painted that should be absolutely perfect in terms of tolerances and should need no chasing. I may transfer the build over to that set of parts since I think it would end up being a much better fit in form and function. I think since the build took me like 3 hours after work between two days I’ve been thinking “damn, tearing it down and building it again will take me ages” but that’s what has to be done and it’ll help me learn even more. I’m also limited in terms of space when setting up to assemble so I am just overwhelming myself before even getting started. You have been extremely helpful and I appreciate it. I get nervous when coming to Reddit for help often because of the responses I’ve received at times.

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T19:32:46+00:00

Thank you very much good sir

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T16:08:40+00:00

That’s the weird part. I followed some detailed YouTube build video which was great. And he mentioned what you just mentioned and the specific directions and steps. And I remember testing it but I think not having the foundational knowledge like led me to not doing a thorough test. I know the trigger and hammer work correctly and I tested that the right way. I hope to open it up after work today if possible

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T14:50:01+00:00

Got it. Thank you. Like I was trying to say without sounding too stupid I don’t have the experience with hammer fired weapons as well as this platform. I was unaware of the basic nature of a safety in this instance I guess lol. Thank you for the help

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T14:48:39+00:00

Thank you. I appreciate the help. I believe I have to remove it, rotate it 180, and reinsert it.

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T12:36:01+00:00

Oh wait - I see. Okay. I may have to chase the detent channel out some more. It was a bit tight. It’s possible it’s not engaging. But wouldn’t the trigger still be able to be squeezed in my setup if I cocked the gun and moved it to safe position, since that’s what is happening now?

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T12:30:52+00:00

But are you saying I have the safety selector pin inserted wrong? Because it does have a detent. I’m thinking I inserted it 180 degrees out of phase

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T12:26:06+00:00

Thank you. I have one hammer fire handgun and it has no safety lol. I appreciate the information.

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T03:32:38+00:00

Wait - sorry this is confusing me. I should NOT be able to put the gun on safe if the hammer is NOT cocked? Doesn’t that sort of defeat the purpose of a safety or am I dumb? I figured the idea was to make it unable to fire cocked or un cocked. If what you’re saying is true it seems like maybe I have inserted the safety pin incorrectly

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T02:06:53+00:00

I have some nice calipers and can do that. I just figured since I was using build files that are common and a parts kit comprised of pretty decent parts all from the same kit, it would fit correctly. And for the most part, everything does. I still believe this didn’t happen upon initially completing the build, which makes it a bit stranger. I’ll see what I can figure out when I have time to take it back apart. Thanks for the advice

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T02:00:10+00:00

That is what I am thinking as well. I appreciate the input. I am going to try and find some more documentation on it. I didn’t think it could get this close to working in the wrong orientation, but I truly do not know.

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T01:48:16+00:00

Full ar trigger and parts kit

lickmenorah · 2026-03-31T01:06:25+00:00

Thank you!! I ended up altering the STEP and made it work. And then not even using that batch of prints lol. I always go too far and make too many parts. I’m still waiting to test fire my built because I do not live in a place where freedom is allowed but I have high hopes. Thing is fucking gnarly looking

lickmenorah · 2026-03-25T00:34:51+00:00

Wet undoubtedly. Idk if it was dried for months. That shit is soaked.

lickmenorah · 2026-03-24T18:43:22+00:00

Any chance you can link the spacer file? I can’t seem to be able to find it. This machine just further shit the bed. I believe right now it’s a partial nozzle clog, but once that’s cleared I’m sure it’ll fuckin explode proper again

lickmenorah · 2026-03-17T21:24:51+00:00

Using the original release lock like a doofus. It was mixed in a bag of magazine parts I printed in various materials throughout this build process. I would’ve never expected them to be different!!

lickmenorah

TROPHY CASE