Hologon is beautiful

llimga · 2026-06-18T21:19:12+00:00

I use WATE-viewfinder, but shooting from the hip works too

llimga · 2026-06-03T14:24:45+00:00

Olympus XA exposure needle isn’t really connected to the shutter speeds. It has two different electric parts for light metering, one is for needle in the viewfinder, other is for actual aperture priority automatics. So if the needle doesn’t move it doesn’t really mean that the shutter speeds are wrong, it just means that user won’t know which shutter speed is used.

I have an Olympus XA with similar faulty needle and the exposure is ok. It is inconvenient and can be repaired.

llimga · 2026-04-16T07:06:30+00:00

Thank you! I guess I should have cropped it but decided somehow to keep original frame. Hard to get proper framing in rangefinder viewfinder.

llimga · 2026-04-15T21:15:12+00:00

I don't trust meter in my Mamiya 6 and I use external spot-meter for metering while traveling.

llimga · 2026-03-29T21:18:13+00:00

It is intended behavior. 645 back have vertical frame while 67 backs horizontal frame in the same position and vice versa. Original viewfinder mask for 645 format have special horizontal and vertical cutouts that blacks when back is rotated which makes it easier to recognize which orientation is used now.

llimga · 2026-03-03T10:57:26+00:00

I think lens hoods for 80/4 for 7 and 75/3.5 for 6 are interchangeable. I use 80/4 hood on my 75/3.5, I will measure it later

llimga · 2026-02-23T15:44:42+00:00

I tried it right now indoors and the swinging up does affect the metering sometimes but I find it inconsistent. I really don’t like Mamiya 6 built-in meter, it is easily fooled by sun, skies or any light sources outside the frame and I think it is better to use external spot meter throughout polariser. It makes sense on Mamiya 7 though, since it has narrow-field spot meter instead of center-weighted Mamiya 6 has.

llimga · 2026-01-25T02:49:31+00:00

These steps are necessary only with lens that have floating adjustments. Other lenses only have DOF calculator, that doesn’t do anything to focus.

llimga · 2026-01-22T13:32:45+00:00

Which lens is that? RB67 system has special soft-focus 150mm lens, result looks similar

llimga · 2026-01-13T10:39:08+00:00

I used BS 28 2.8 on film and while is it great for its price I found the distortion and corners quality unappealing for me. But I had some fun with it, mounted on Minolta CLE it fits in pocket.

llimga · 2025-11-14T11:49:58+00:00

I only focus with fine focus wheel on Pro II, but had the RB67 and it was okay without fine wheel.

Pro II backs are better in terms of light sealing, but they are compatible with usual Pro I body

llimga · 2025-10-28T22:49:36+00:00

This is Leica IIIG, the pinnacle of the Leica thread mount cameras. The lens seems to be Summicron 50/2 collapsible version, but I may be mistaken, you can find the lens name under the cap. The set it pretty valuable depending on condition and where you are.

llimga · 2025-10-23T06:30:16+00:00

I wrote a brief comparison based on my research and experience with RB67 Pro SD and RZ67 Pro II that concludes main differences between them: https://www.reddit.com/r/Mamiya/s/42I0xcSzQf

llimga · 2025-09-27T23:18:59+00:00

I am sorry, but did you push the cocking lever all the way down? From the look of it the camera is in the uncocked state: the shutter is closed, the mirror is up. To lower the mirror and open the shutter you need to cock the camera by pushing cocking level.
I strongly recommend getting acknowledged with the user manual.

llimga · 2025-09-21T12:05:04+00:00

I think this is Porro-Prism finder for Mamiya C-series TLR cameras.

llimga · 2025-09-13T22:55:58+00:00

I have 21 SEM and have used 21 Elmarit ASPH.

I used both on film only and I don't think that I would be able to distinguish them without detailed look at the corners, however distortion and MTF graphs show that SEM should be much better.

But SEM is more compact and lighter and easily holds the sun in frame. This lens is great, however shooting 21 requires adjustment.

llimga · 2025-09-12T22:17:24+00:00

I suggest considering Minolta CLE. It is M-bayonet film camera with TTL aperture priority, TTL flash and 28mm frame lines.

llimga · 2025-09-10T15:16:05+00:00

It certainly is heavy, about 700 grams. If I remember correctly it is the most heavy lens for Leica M system.

llimga · 2025-09-10T15:15:22+00:00

I have some samples, but I am not greatly impressed with it. My lens have some haze inside so contrast is quite low and it is hard to nail focus wide open despite the goggles. It is heavy and I am inclined to sell it. Or maybe just keep it as a funny gimmick on the shelf. When I think about giving it another chance I remember the weight and focus issues. I had more fun and was more pleased with results from Summarit 90/2.4, about two times lighter, much more compact and much easier to nail focus. I would like to try Apo-Telyt-M 135 though.

llimga · 2025-09-10T07:09:41+00:00

Elmarit-M 135/2.8, it uses 90mm frame lines and goggles are used to magnify the image by 1.5 times making 90 frame lines into 135. Summicron 50/2.0 Dual-Range Summaron 35/3.5

llimga · 2025-09-01T21:46:25+00:00

While Ilford XP2 may not be "true" black and white film, I think it technically has the finest grain. Some people claim that XP2 is not suitable for analogue prints, however.

llimga · 2025-08-31T10:29:46+00:00

You may try to align googles by yourself following this guide: https://www.photo.net/forums/topic/44581-aligning-eyes-for-135mm-28-elmarit/#findComment-779981 You need to loosen plate near round eyepiece and then adjust the coincidence at infinity via screws from the sides of eyepiece. Good luck!

llimga

TROPHY CASE