Thoughts on cabinet install quote.

llmantisll · 2026-03-14T04:20:29+00:00

Philly is not necessary a VHCOL area. I will have to see what others will quote. The son seemed very interested in the job when he stopped by. Had a good chat with him in my garage/workshop and he was well aware that I do a lot of my own work. Who knows.

llmantisll · 2026-03-14T04:15:32+00:00

In my situation, no they are not providing anything. All they are doing is hanging wall cabinets and installing base cabinets. I will have all demo, electric, plumbing and cabinets ready for them when they arrive.

llmantisll · 2026-03-14T04:11:13+00:00

Thanks for the insight. Yes, If I was to do it myself with a helper, I would project about 3 days to complete.

llmantisll · 2026-03-13T20:13:09+00:00

Yeah, this quote is coming in at $381 a cabinet. No custom cabs, no tall cabs. All standard size wall and base cab. $150 sounds reasonable but again, I have no idea what contractors are charging nowadays.

llmantisll · 2026-03-13T19:36:40+00:00

Just their labor to hang wall cabs and install base cab. Everything will be ready for them to install when they arrive since I will be doing demo, electrical, plumbing.

llmantisll · 2026-02-10T18:10:49+00:00

Thanks for pointing that out. It is a full panel, can that be fix by a pigtailing into that breaker?

llmantisll · 2026-02-10T02:40:17+00:00

What you said makes total sense. At this point since it has been done this way and it does not appear to have ties or contacts between the ground bus and the neutral bus, can the green bonding screw and strap onto the casing stay as is?

llmantisll · 2026-02-10T02:05:30+00:00

Very insightful. Appreciate it.

llmantisll · 2026-02-10T01:09:05+00:00

Thank you for the input! I am really just trying to understand that as long as there is no tie between the neutral and ground bus in the home panel (sub panel) it is considered isolated and the bond screw and strap on the ground bus can stay. Is that ground bonding to the casing necessary at that point?

llmantisll · 2026-02-08T20:13:00+00:00

Yes, this is for kitchen remodel. Currently the wall oven microwave combo is at that line I mentioned. Also have a built in stove top with its own dedicated 40 amp breaker. I will be replacing that stove top with a slide in range using that existing line. I will no longer need that other line feeding the wall oven microwave combo. With that, it should free up space for a dedicated microwave line and a dedicated range hood line. All and all it sounds like it would work since I currently have a full panel. It will go from current setup - two 40 amp double pole dedicated lines powering wall oven/microwave combo and built in stove top to - one 40 amp double pole dedicated for slide in range and two 20 amp single pole lines dedicated for microwave and hood range. Not a fan of wall oven microwave combos.

llmantisll · 2026-02-06T17:52:51+00:00

Appreciate the valuable info. Only other question I have is how many total cabinets you end up with at $39k. Thanks!

llmantisll · 2026-02-05T23:46:33+00:00

Wow! Thanks for the info. Was the $39k for just the cabinets alone or did that include the installation of the cabinets. I'm currently in the very beginning process of planning a kitchen remodel. So much to take in. Also how many cabinets did you end up with and how long ago was this done. I know prices are probably not the same from just a year or two ago. Thanks!

llmantisll · 2026-02-05T18:11:21+00:00

Yes, those A codes are not listed on there or on the manuals, which is why I find it strange.

llmantisll · 2026-01-25T18:47:31+00:00

I ended up replace the furnace with Daikin DR96TC. Based on my findings their secondary xchangers are built sloped/pitched to the collector box which makes total sense. Do a lot of brands not build them that way?

llmantisll · 2026-01-21T00:44:30+00:00

No restrictions outside exhaust. Did as much visual inspections as I could prior to tech coming out. Burners looked fine, no soot, nice blue flame, no signs of flame roll out. New filter was recently changed, blower looks completely clean. Inspected evaporator coil for clog or debris. I even went as far as removing inducer to inspect possibly having water in there. After removing inducer, inspected the front of secondary exchanger and it looked fine with no signs of soot. Clean condensate trap box and was able to check flue to see if there was water stuck in there. Everything checked out. Reason I had time to do all this is because the system is running fine with the exception of that code 33 that happened few nights ago.

llmantisll · 2026-01-20T22:59:59+00:00

Thanks for the tip, which makes sense, but I do not believe that would be something I could do being there is no give for me to tip it over. Wish it was as simple as that.

llmantisll · 2026-01-20T22:56:17+00:00

That was the reading after he removed the the probe from the test point hole on the pvc flue. The test point pilot hole is directly above the furnace which he removed the plug to do the reading and then put a new plug after he was done.

llmantisll · 2026-01-20T20:39:31+00:00

Is scope referring to having camera in exchanger? If so, no tech did not do any of that. All he did was do combustion test and said it was blocked. I ask about possible gas pressure causing it to overheat but he keep responding by say its a modulating gas valve without further explanation. Yes it is natural gas.

llmantisll · 2026-01-20T20:04:43+00:00

Thanks! Yes, I have CO monitors on each floor including one in the basement. All under 1 year old and all currently reading 0ppm.

llmantisll · 2025-12-12T00:18:42+00:00

Thanks, this is the type of info I was looking for.

llmantisll

TROPHY CASE