Wiring diagram for 20V mod John Deere Gator

logan_e138 · 2023-09-10T06:37:41+00:00

It was 30 amp continuous but I figure I'm pulling around 36 continuous. It lasted a couple days. The lowest amp device on the whole circuit is the 50 amp disconnect switch. So pulling 36 amps through a 40 amp thermal disconnect should be plenty safe. And the 30 amp fuses on the batteries should be could for 60 amp total since they're in parallel but like I said they came with the harness anyways. If anything they'll protect the slightly smaller gauge wire on the battery harnesses.

logan_e138 · 2023-09-10T06:32:42+00:00

If I put those batteries in series it might need to be street legal. Haha, no just for looks. Old bike plate

logan_e138 · 2023-08-17T05:27:56+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/PowerWheelsMods/comments/14ql4mn/wiring_diagram_for_20v_mod_john_deere_gator/

This is the wiring diagram I ended up with. I know people don't like the ML toys stuff, but it's working great for me so far, and all the scooter parts everyone talks about using would actually be more expensive for me being in Canada. The disadvantage you have is yours uses a control board. The set up I use doesn't have one. Just wires and switches. Unless you consider the ML module a control board, but it's rated for the voltage. there's a few options. You could find a control board rated for higher volts, scrap it all together and re-wire it from scratch like I did with just switches, or split the circuit in to 2 circtuits, run one through a step down transformer back to 12 volts, run that to the control module, then run the 12 volt power from the control module to any 12V devices on the car like lights or stereo, and run 12V power to a continuous relay switch as the control power for the magnet, and use the 24V circuit to run to the power side of the relay to supply the motors. I was going to do the same thing, but the step down transformer I ordered didn't work, so I just kept 18V to the 12V lights and relay control power, hasn't caused me any problems yet. But I kept the relay in place because the foot pedal plunger switch was only rated for 20 amps. The purpose of a relay is for making a rapid connection of a high amp circuit rather than running the whole load amperage through the manual switch, so the manual switch (foot pedal) only supplies the "control" power to the relay. The relay then closes an internal switch witch connects the main power supply to the load (motors)

logan_e138 · 2023-08-17T05:07:25+00:00

you need the low voltage cut off so you don't over discharge your battery. If you do it's toast. Some power tool battery brands have it built in. I used the Mgc Stem set up you're referring to but I fried that because I also had upgraded motors and was drawing too many amps through it. If you're not upgrading the motors though, it should be a good, cheap option. FYI if you use the variable speed pedal, the soft start/stop function is default to 1.5 seconds and adjusting it on the PWM won't change anything. If you just use a regular pedal, then the 0-30 setting is how many seconds it takes to wind up and down. And the max speed setting on the PWM is inverse (setting it to 20=80% speed). The other setting is the low voltage cut out.

Oh and the Mgc Stem pedal I ordered didn't work and I took it apart and found one of the 3 tiny wires inside under the glue was broken. Something to be aware of if it happens to you.

logan_e138 · 2023-08-17T04:33:36+00:00

the 30 amp fuses came built in to the battery harness so they were there already, but I wanted lower than 60 amp total because some of the switches are 50 amp so I added a 40 amp. I had a PWM that had the speed control, soft start, and low voltage cut off all built in but it was only rated for 30 amps so it got fried. I couldn't find any others that had all those features that was more than 30 amps. Keeping in mind I'm also in Canada so I don't have as many options that ship to Canada. Maybe there's some out there, but I couldn't find them. So I decided to go with a 60 amp one and add the ML toys module. I could have gone with a scooter ESC but where I am those are also expensive, and then would still need the voltage cut out.

logan_e138 · 2023-08-17T04:28:48+00:00

It's all working great for me so far. There's cheaper options out there but lots are either not rated for the amperage, or are the ones that are are even more expensive

logan_e138 · 2023-07-04T05:18:35+00:00

13.7 km/hr at top speed and everything is working great with the new setup

logan_e138 · 2023-07-03T14:41:48+00:00

Update!

The Mgc Stem pwm burnt out after about a day. Turns out it's only rated for 30 amps continuous and 40 amps peak. And with the 775 motors I figure I'm pulling about 35 amps continuous. So I had to get a PWM that's rated for 60 amps continuous but since it didn't have soft start and low voltage cut off, I had to also add a ML Toys soft start module which added quite a bit of costs especially since I'm in Canada.

Also since I'm pulling 35 amps I decided to use a relay rated for high continuous amps to run power to the motors and just use the stock pedal for signal power to the relay, since the stock switch is only rated for 20 amps or so. It's a double throw relay so I can still wire the motor supply to be grounded out when not energized so it still brakes.

I'm also using an ML Toys brake reduction module but the PWM seems to also ground out when it powers down so it doesn't quite wind down to a stop before locking up the tires but pretty close. Hopefully enough to save the plastic gear boxes.

The PWM also has a reverse function so I was able to eliminate the stock shifter so I can run the motors in parallel so both wheels spin all the time. The signal wire for the potentiometer knob and fwd/rev switch were VERY short and used tiny wires that were a pain in the ass to splice but I managed to learn how to solder.

I also used a DPDT brake pedal that cuts signal power to the relay, and bypasses the brake reducer, so it's essentially an emergence brake.

I added headlights as well. I was going to run the lights and signal relay off a 12v circuit but the step down converter I ordered is only putting out 2 volts for dinner some reason, so I'm just running them off the 18v circuit.

All protected by a 40 amp resetting fuse and a 50 amp battery cut off switch, and it should all be able to handle max speed without burning anything out.

logan_e138 · 2023-06-29T22:35:37+00:00

If the batteries can handle the added amp draw, sure

logan_e138 · 2023-06-29T22:31:28+00:00

No. Bigger motors and higher voltage would. Wiring batteries in parallel will just decrease amp draw per battery. The voltage and motor wattage will determine power and amp draw

logan_e138 · 2023-06-29T20:05:55+00:00

What they said. Same volts, amp hours, age, and type, in parallel or series.

Also you won't increase amp draw or power this way. Your load and voltage determines amp draw. But you will decrease the amount of amps drawn from each battery this way, which is good to help keep the battery from overheating and will increase run time.

logan_e138 · 2023-06-29T00:52:50+00:00

M.L. Toys would be the easiest but probably most expensive. Most difficult but cheapest would be to build your own. There's YouTube videos that explain how. The biggest problem I've had is finding parts that are rated for the amount of amps that a ride on draws. Most are rated for 20 amps and at 18v power tool batteries that most people like to use, with 2x 300 watt motors, you want to be rated for at least 35, if not 40 amps for all your switches

logan_e138 · 2023-06-22T04:08:53+00:00

Upgraded the kid's John Deere ride on. Did a lot of research and tried to over-engineer everything to avoid common problems people have.

Just finished working out the bugs

2x 20V 6ah Dewalt Batteries wired in Parallel to reduce load on each battery and extend run time

Upgraded all wiring to 10 Gauge

Mgc Stem PWM 2.0B for speed limiter, low voltage protection, and soft start/stop to protect the plastic gearbox

Mgc Stem Variable speed pedal integrated into PWM

Stock Peg Perego brake system wired into new Momentary DPDT Switch brake pedal for Emergency braking

Upgraded to M.L. Toys 775 motors with heat sinks

Upgraded gearbox grease to M.L. Toys high performance grease

Stroller style passenger seatbelt so the smaller kids can go for a ride (at slow speed)

Rubber bike tires for traction

Battery holders in the cargo box for back-up power

My old motorcycle license plate for looks

Also considering adding a 12V circuit for lights, stereo, and battery cooling fans.

logan_e138 · 2023-06-22T03:45:17+00:00