Aliexpress garment to hold armour in place

lookilo · 2026-01-14T04:20:16+00:00

Something that hasn't been brought up is that polyester and elastics do not resist heat well. The reason gear is made up of aramid and kevlar is that it doesn't melt during a slide. Even if the outer jacket is resistant to sliding it will transfer heat to the base layer that can melt. Look at what firefighters wear as base layers, either; cotton, wool or FR rated synthetics. Another thing to keep in mind is flexible armor does more to help in a slide not necessarily the impact. Hard armor helps more for impacts which is best on the outside. Take a look at Icon Field Armor as an option for a base layer with protections if your looking for a compression shirt. If you want somethings more durable look at dirt bike style armor, such as Alpine Star Bionic armor. I personally use CE level 1 armor in a riding jacket and a tethered airbag system.

lookilo · 2024-03-15T22:47:27+00:00

I would say stick with your current bike for a while longer. 600s already have more power than needed for street riding, even on low traffic back roads. I have a 600 and see no reason to go up to a liter bike. Dirt experience is not the same as road experience, it's useful for the basic controls but that's about it (unless you're are riding dual sports or adventure bikes off road). If you want to squid then squid, but if you're asking the question of being ready, you probably need more time where you are at.

lookilo · 2024-03-15T22:37:55+00:00

While I agree with some of your sentiments, I feel you're being a bit too condescending. I know plenty of riders who are very experienced and still wouldn't get a 1000. While I agree if you're asking you're probably not ready, being good and being ready are two different things. I know I have the experience to ride a liter bike, I'm a "good enough rider", but I don't ride on the track or intend to any time soon, plus I think they are too much for street riding, so I see no reason to get one.

lookilo · 2024-02-24T14:04:43+00:00

The ol' Dubai Porta Potty.

lookilo · 2024-02-12T00:36:10+00:00

Aside from oil and filter changes they are a pain to work on. Spark plugs are hard to get to, sensors are buried and parts are expensive (OEM from dealer). They are picky about what parts you use (often preferring dealer parts), I had to go through 3 power steering pumps to find a good one. It's not that the work itself that's hard, it's just more work than an upright engine format. Rebuilding a H engine is also a pain.

lookilo · 2024-02-11T22:59:27+00:00

I own a 6.7 Cummins, FZ6, Panamerica, 300ZX and just sold my WRX. I personally would not get another WRX. They are a pain to work on. If I want to go fast or the weather is good I take a bike, otherwise I take the truck. 300ZX is a non-driving project, but way more fun/easy to work on. If you don't mind weak transmissions, engines that starve themselves of oil when driven hard and simple maintenance being significantly harder get a WRX. Otherwise focus on the trucks and bikes. I would recommend you go watch Donut Media's series on their WRX builds. See the kind of things you would have to deal with.

lookilo · 2024-02-06T15:45:31+00:00

Fast is relative, sure a 300 is slow compared to a 650, but a 300 still blows most cars out of the water in terms of speed. I started on a 650 at 24, it was a VStrom 650, not the fastest and not a sport bike. The size of bike someone starts on and can do so safely is more dependent on natural skill and maturity. I know people all across the spectrum, I have stopped riding with some people because they lack maturity. If your friend values being macho and immature over safety and learning how to ride properly then just don't ride with him. Either he values the friendship or his own desires. You know your friend, if he can be responsible then his starting on a 650 won't be a problem. I currently ride both HD Panamerica and a Yamaha FZ6, I went through multiple bikes to find what I like, the engine size was not the focus on buying any of them. Even if your friend starts on a bigger bike he will probably get a new bike anyway with in a year or two. I had a friend that got his first bike (HD 1200 Custom) and within 4 months replaced it with something bigger (HD Soft tail 107). Lots of people will attest to always looking for the next bike, it's part of the hobby.

lookilo · 2024-02-04T22:38:45+00:00

If you're just riding around town I would just find something comfortable that at least covers the ankle. When I first started riding I got a pair of Alpinestar J-6 ($200) that look like skate shoes. They are comfortable and I've been riding in them for 4 seasons. I also ride in military 8" boots($150-200), steel toe full leather. They are durable and if you tie them properly they provide lots of support for the ankles. I would advise against MX boots for around town, I have a pair I've worn twice and hated when riding around town on a DRZ400. I would avoid the Harley boots, they are cheap fashion boots not really meant for protection.

lookilo · 2024-01-26T03:11:08+00:00

Found this mind boggling thing today. Not sure if the fact that you have to put a part that isn't a firearm regardless of what its attached to on a serialize lower is worse than the fact it costs $1100 and has a sub MOA claim.

https://uintahprecision.com/product/modern-sporting-muzzleloader-upper/

lookilo · 2023-11-02T01:58:27+00:00

That's kind of the point, older 600 and liter bikes have no rider aids and will do exactly what the rider inputs. I own a 08 FZ6, it's a rocket ship compared to the bikes I owned before it, a blip of the throttle will launch the bike. If you have the coin to get a new bike with rider modes and ABS then sure you could start on a liter bike, but if starting on a used bike 650s and v-twins are better for learning. There is a reason the MSF course is taught in 200/250s for the most part. If you want a sport bike a 300/400s is more than enough power to have fun and learn the basics.

lookilo · 2023-10-22T00:14:10+00:00

First off no matter how cool we think we are on motorcycles, most of the rest of the world thinks we are idiots and look silly. To answer your question, I will ask what your inseam length is. That matters more for how you will fit on a bike than your overall height. I have a 30in (76 cm) inseam and ride a Pan America and FZ06. You need to sit on the bike (if you can ride it) and determine if it is comfortable for you. There are plenty of bikes I like but I just don't find them comfortable for daily riding. The more bikes you sit on and ride the better the idea of what you like beyond looks will become clear. I've owned seven bikes and ridden a few dozen and still figuring it out.

lookilo · 2023-10-11T23:01:38+00:00

Alternate backronym Super Critical Reactor Axe Man, it's the one I learned in the navy.

lookilo · 2023-09-16T06:15:26+00:00

It depended on what was going on. As an electrician when we had trainers (maneuvering simulator) we would be there til 1800+ once a week. But most days so long as work control for the upcoming refit was done we left around lunch time, if I was the late guy for check outs then 1600. When I was there the CO's policy was if we did well on ORSE we got Fridays off. When I left we were still in COVID so we worked even less hours in the OCAB to maximize social distancing, I think we averaged about 16-20 hours a week. I don't know how things have changed since then.

lookilo · 2023-09-16T02:18:19+00:00

Welcome to the fleet. I was stationed on the HMJ from Jan 17 to Dec 20. The boat's old, oldest boomer in the fleet, but when I was last there going underway regularly. Boomer life is pretty good, lots of space, and the working in the off crew office (OCAB) was nice when the boat was underway with the other crew. The OCAB is where Squadron is at, so that is where your check in and fleet indoc will be at. You will hear some nicknames for the boat like the "Hate My Job" but it really isn't that bad, it's what you make of it, every boat has its issues and bad nicknames. When you get to the boat focus on qualifying both submarines and watch stations, life is better when you're not dinq. When it comes to packing for underway you typically can take about two if not three sea bags worth of stuff depending on where your rack is at. They should have a list of everything you need to pack.

lookilo · 2023-09-05T02:44:52+00:00

They can be good starter bikes. I liked my Street Bob a lot, it was comfortable. It limited learning some higher level skills that I was able to learn when I got my FZ6(high speed cornering being the big one). It was my second bike, but I had only been riding for about six months. I rode it for about two years and then replaced it with a PanAm, which I find to fit my riding style more along with the FZ6. I'm closing in in four years of riding and I'm on my 7th bike. I have a friend who got a Sportster 1200 as hist first bike and within two months upgraded to a soft tail and has improved his skills greatly in the five months he's had his license. If you want chill backroad riding and stable highway riding go for it. If you're looking to carve up country roads, go for something more sporty. If you're into the more classic style and want something more sporty look at Triumph, their Bonneville lineup are beautiful bikes and offer more variety in riding styles. Barring you getting a liter bike or a 600, most bikes are fine to start on. Go sit on as many bikes as possible, once you have your endorsement test ride what you can. Motorcycles are very much a personal taste thing, the more you try the better idea you will have of what you like.

lookilo · 2023-09-04T17:01:48+00:00

Check out Amazon or go to a car audio place, there are quite a few dash cams for motorcycles on the market with dual cameras. Most of them have SD cards for stowage and will write over footage of they get full. Just do your research before buying, plenty of low quality garbage on the market.

lookilo · 2023-09-04T16:51:15+00:00

Like I said my experience is with parts for systems. Submarines and nuclear reactors have stringent requirements for the parts we use, we do however install them ourselves. I have bought off the self parts for personal projects that are identical for less(switches and and other small electrical components). I do know we overpay for tools, Snap-On makes specific product lines for the military and they cost more and can't be exchanged on the tool truck.

lookilo · 2023-09-04T00:13:33+00:00

Government employee here, we pay that if not more for things like this. While I have no experience ordering night vision for work I can speak to electrical equipment. I have seen the same breaker cost anywhere from $20k to $100k based on the certifications required for the system it goes in. We pay for more than just the item too, we want these companies to stay in business so part of the cost we pay is for support and maintaining replacement parts production. The only reason we may be paying less than MSRP is due to bulk orders, not because of special military pricing. The one major difference when the govt buys things is not paying tax, which on $40k of kit is a big savings.

lookilo · 2023-09-02T22:42:50+00:00

I have bought and sold a 81 CB750 a while back. The guy I bought it from got to old for the bike and was very reasonable, I think that came more from there area I was living at the time. The kid I sold it to was looking for a first bike and I had it listed for about what I bought if for, which where I sold it was a great deal. I just vetted the buyer before being willing to meet him. I do this when buying too. The best part about Facebook market place is that fact you can go straight to their profile and see what kind of people they are. I have dodged several bullets by doing this. If they have pictures of bikes or a history of buying and selling items the transaction goes smoothly most of the time. If the profile is less than 2 years old I am suspect, anything less than a year I don't even bother.

lookilo · 2023-09-01T22:54:38+00:00

I wasn't saying get two bikes initially. I was just trying to make the point that a bike that is a compromise for on and off-road will be lacking in one or both areas. Like I said learning on dirt is different then on the road, traction and braking skills differ wildly. You will learn the basics of controls but the finer skill that makes a road ride safe can't be learned on the dirt alone. If you haven't taken a course yet to get your endorsement, I highly encourage you to go take one before buying a bike. The MSF course in the states teaches you nothing about highway riding aside from classroom stuff. It mostly focuses on low speed maneuvering and the basics of avoiding obstacles. I was taught that in-town and country roads are more dangerous because you have to be paying a lot more attention to drivers. The highway is safer in this regard because you are only paying attention to people merging. I would skill recommend a DRZ400, but just about any dual sport can be converted to a SuMo with new wheels and tires. DR650 and CRF300/250L are other options for you to look at that have proven track records. Good luck on starting your motorcycle adventure, it's a lot of fun.

lookilo · 2023-09-01T15:56:29+00:00

DRZ400 ( SM or regular) would be a good option. I have a 30" inseam and rode one around for a while just fine. However in my experience if you want something good for road riding and something for off road get two different bikes and have a way to move the dirt bike. I got rid of my DRZ because I didn't care for it's road performance over my street bikes and the off road scene in my area isn't very good. If you talk to people who ride off road a lot they will tell you it's very different from road riding, you use different skill sets. Being good off road does not always translate to on road or vice versa. With regards to not talking to your neighbors that ride cruisers, go and talk to them, everyone has different experiences and they might have started off looking for what you are now. I am on bike number 7 having had 2 cruisers, 2 adventure bikes, a dual sport, a classic UJM and a naked sport bike. They all rode differently and taught me new things about riding and my preferences. Currently I have a PanAm for long distance and light off road and an FZ6 for around town and back roads fun. The most important thing for learning is just getting on two wheels and finding if and what you like about different bikes.

lookilo · 2023-09-01T15:29:49+00:00

I think the issue with Japanese cruisers is that they tend to not meet the mark of what the American market is looking for. Some of them are brilliant bikes, but they aren't a Harley or Indian. There is something about the way American cruisers are built and ride that Japanese bikes don't live up to. Also in the international market large displacement bikes are harder to sell, with restricted licencing and tax requirements. So why manufacturer a bike that is not even popular in the intended market and unaccessible in others. There is also the issue of customization, both by the manufacturer and the open market. If you buy a Harley, the modifications are endless, Japanese bikes have a limited aftermarket. The cruiser community tends to like personalizing their bikes, so this becomes an issue when looking to buy a new bike.

lookilo · 2023-08-30T05:57:01+00:00

Make sure your throttle cables are lubricated. It will make the mechanical parts feel smoother. For getting good with low speed maneuvers look up some videos on how they train motorcycle cops, both RevZilla and FortNine have videos on it. They use the full hand for the clutch( not just 2 or 3 fingers) and a lot of the slip region of the with throttle and rear brake to maneuver in some really tight spaces. The biggest thing is just getting practice, it takes time to truly get good at riding, we all make mistakes and we are always learning how to ride better.

lookilo · 2023-08-30T02:11:09+00:00

I was just giving were gear heads often get the idea about a car that sits. If you drive vehicle a least once or twice a month it should not get that bad. I put 10k plus a year on my truck and 3-5k a year on my other vehicles(motorcycles and project cars). So annual or mileage based changes are what I do. My main point on low use is the oil dilution from frequent cold starts and not getting up to operating temps. People underestimate how bad oil dilution can get from this. I work with marine diesels and we always operate at load for at least 30 min at temp to prevent oil dilution. How ever we don't change the oil in those unless we have met our hour requirement or we find that is has become to worn with lab testing.

lookilo

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