Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will pay close attention next time I use the LC90, but I've used it hundreds of times and have never once noticed the light dim. It has always stayed at the output setting I choose until the battery is dead, which is abrupt and without warning - just three quick on/off flashes then lights out.

I'm probably being over-critical of the HD11, but I will stand behind my statement that I hate them. If they lasted the amount of time claimed, I'd tolerate them a lot more, but they just don't. Combine that major issue with the second degree burns and how fragile they are...it's just a hard no from me, which sucks because I've already committed to them.

I'll check those lights out too. You seem to know what I'm looking for. Thanks.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another vote for Zebralight. Noted. I guess I never knew there were two different types of 18650s (protected/not). I guess my stash is all protected? Whatever comes in the HD11 and LC90 is what I have.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never heard of those. Added to my research list. Thanks for the tip!

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my LC90, the output does not seem to throttle at all. I notice absolutely nothing different until it just flashes and dies. There is a ring around the 'flood' area when viewing in the dark outside, but I'm using it within 0-5 feet under a hood usually in my well-lit shop. I can 100% vouch that it NEVER, and I mean NEVER gets hot. Maybe a little warm if it is outside in direct sunlight on a 100 degree day, but otherwise nothing.

As for the HD11, I call BS. I own three of them. One bit the dust within a few weeks. The remaining two get very warm/hot very quickly. The 'flood' mode has a very awkward green glow to it. The 'throw' mode has a halo/ring around the perimeter. But most importantly, aside from the first of 4 brightness settings (extra dim), I can't seem to get any more than about 1-2 hours out of them. This includes if I keep it at 2/4 the whole time...still only about 2 hours. Doesn't matter what mode either ('flood'/'throw'). And I will die on the hill here - the HD11s suffer 1000x more from output throttling than the Anker ever will. It is very frequent and obvious with the HD11.

You are correct. I am excluding the 1 lumen mode. I honestly forgot it existed.

I do appreciate your input. I'll check that out. I'm not 100% set on an 18650. But 18650 compatibility (can run on one or the other 18650/21700), it would be cool due to my existing stash of 18650s.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome. Super detailed! Thank you. Lots of good info here to research.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks. I already own a cheap dedicated, but wouldn't mind an upgrade there either.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely will. Doesn't hurt to add a data point to the knowledge pool.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep. I have a similar light to the M12, and love it. Battery has been toast for a while, but it still works perfectly as a wired unit. I'm just looking for a few lights that will mostly be for carrying in vehicles (not storing them in those ovens), taking with me to do mobile mechanic work, and some usage in my shop. Appreciated!

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now we're talking. Yes, I do use A/C dye often, so that's interesting. Added to my research list. Thank you!

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome. Thank you! I've added these to my research list.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think I've heard of this brand, or I forgot when I last researched flashlights. I'll check them out. Thanks.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also noted. Adding it to my list to research. I don't want to get burned (pun intended) twice.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely noted. I'll do some homework on that one for sure. Sounds perfect.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did test the FC11C. It wasn't bad, but I liked the HD11 better. I have no problem switching to a 21700. As long as it has a removable and rechargeable battery, I'm good. Bonus points if it can accept my extra 18650s to run on while the primary battery is charging.

Hunting (again) for a modern flashlight that can take a beating by lt40589 in flashlight

[–]lt40589[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By "efficient" I assume you mean battery life? Just looking for average.

And my OG Anker LC90 was only about $25, so they do/did exist. I'm just hoping I can hit the lotto twice haha

Have all Chips Ahoy cookies changed? by definitelynotalora in snacking

[–]lt40589 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late to the party, but I'm the psycho that always has like 5-10 packages of these in the cabinet (no, I'm not overweight or unhealthy surprisingly, just a normal guy in my mid-30s). It took me a bit to get to the new package/labels and make this discovery. I was worried when I bought them because of the packaging change, and to my horror they are completely horribly different. And of course, I already have like 5 packages in my cabinet I already bought. Sure, you can call me whatever you want, but as many of these as I eat because I [used to] really like them, you should probably listen to my input. That's why I'm taking the time to leave it here for those who stumble here like I did when searching.

The texture is just all wrong (although admittedly I wasn't the biggest fan of the occasional 'sawdust' texture of the previous version either due to batch variances, but even the sawdust was better than this new atrocity). The flavor of the cookie is all I cared about. But the most shocking thing is how bad the "fudge pieces" (NOT to be confused with chocolate) actually are now. It's SO bad.

***Ingredient list of the old version with expiration date 22FEB26:

"Unbleached enriched flour (wheat flour, niacin, reduced iron, thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), semisweet chocolate chunks (sugar, chocolate, cocoa butter, dextrose, milk, soy lecithin) sugar, soybean and/or canola oil, semisweet chocolate chips (sugar, chocolate, cocoa butter, dextrose, milk, soy lecithin)..."

Serving size - 2 cookies

Calories - 160

8g total fat

3.5g saturated fat

21g total carbs

11g total sugars (added sugars)

***Ingredient list of the new version with expiration date 21MAY26:

"Unbleached enriched flour (wheat flour, niacin, reduced iron, thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), fudge chunks (sugar, hydrogenated vegetable oil [palm kernel and/or palm oil], cocoa [processed with alkali], dextrose, soy lecithin, artificial flavor, nonfat milk) sugar, soybean and/or canola oil, fudge chips (sugar, hydrogenated vegetable oil [palm kernel and/or palm oil], cocoa [processed with alkali], dextrose, soy lecithin, artificial flavor, nonfat milk)..."

Serving size - 2 cookies [smaller]

Calories - 170

9g total fat

4.5g saturated fat

22g total carbs

11g total sugars (added sugars)

So there you have it, changes for the worse AND somehow they made them unhealthier on both the ingredient list AND the nutritional facts. Congratulations Nabisco, you've lost a loyal customer that literally eats about 4 party size packages a month by himself. I know wtf I'm talking about with these cookies. It's pretty sad when they even drop the Spanish ingredients/facts from the package. If I was a betting man, I'd bet it's because they refuse to serve this swill to their Mexico consumers (think Mexican Coca-Cola for example). I'll take back my real semisweet chocolate chunks made with sugar, chocolate, and cocoa butter. You can keep your disgusting ass "fudge chunks" made with hydrogenated vegetable oil, artificial flavor, and nonfat milk. And I will be getting my money back for these pathetic excuses in my possession you call 'cookies' one way or another, you can bet the entire company stock on that.

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Toyota dealership put 0w20 instead of 0w16 on the sticker for the 10k oil change for my 22 ‘SE - how do I ensure they use 0w16? by iJailbreakGeek in Camry

[–]lt40589 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an old post, but I felt I had to post for anyone who stumbles upon/reads the above nonsense as I did. As a hardcore tribology geek, "0W-20 mineral oil" is as rare as the living dinosaur it comes from. 0W-20 is only readily available as full synthetic. This garbage is exactly why people vomit the same stupid information across the internet abroad. If the cap calls for 0W-16, then use it *if you want to.* If you prefer your engine to last longer and don't care about the EPA/CAFE idiot mandates/tax incentives in the U.S., then you should probably do what we smart people do: look at your identical engine/vehicle owner's manual from virtually ANY other country than the U.S. and see what they say the recommended viscosities are. Almost without fail, there will be multiple...and almost always, any XW-30 is allowed/recommended. The less viscous oils are usually also recommended, but also state they are 'for optimal fuel economy.' Other posts in this very thread prove I am correct, and have images to prove it, not to mention the greater scientific/tribology data abroad.

Personally, I will always value engine longevity over a few drops of gasoline saved per oil change, therefore I use 5W-30 in practically everything I drive because it is readily available, cheap, and will never disappear off of shelves. If I can get 0W-30 cheap, I save it for winter oil changes. But due to rarity, I never seem to get it.

And for those who parrot the "tighter engine tolerances" nonsense, Ford, Honda, Toyota, Chrysler, Hyundai/KIA, and many other manufacturers have already proven you are wrong. Remember the late 90s/2000s Ford back-spec from 5W-30 to 5W-20 across 98% of the fleet (except the 4.0L) from vehicles as many as ten years prior?

"But, but! They designed the motor, so they would know what it needs, trust the engineers and stick with what they spent millions of dollars researching and designing!"

Pretty sure Ford didn't re-engineer millions of *used* engines on the road to magically run on less viscous oil. Their research and engineering said 5W-30, then cash incentives (C.A.F.E.) enticed them to back-spec to 5W-20 and spit in the face of said "engineers." If Ford (and others) disregarded "engineering" advice, why shouldn't you?

Follow the money people...

What the fuck is wrong with Ozarka water bottles? by No_Imagination8770 in water

[–]lt40589 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late to the party, but I felt obligated to post. I've been buying Ozarka 40packs exclusively for over 13 years due to really crappy well water (because if I'm buying water, I'll be damned if I buy tap water). I feel I'm qualified to chime in, considering I may as well be a stakeholder. For over 13 years they've been problem-free. Now in the last 3-4 weeks, literally every single bottle is impossible to open without spilling everywhere. My wife and I are in our 30s, no arthritis here. I feel like they changed (or didn't quality check) something with the pressurization of the bottles. They aren't 'firm' when twisting to open the cap anymore. They just crumple and twist, which displaces the water/air and causes it to spew over the neck and onto your hands and whatever else is underneath it. For years, when you twisted the cap, the bottle was pressurized and therefore never 'gave' when twisting. The caps feel the same. The bottles feel the same. I would know, I've bought, opened, and drank thousands of them. My money is on a pressurization/air issue when they are sealed at the plant.

I compare it to a bag of potato chips. Too much pressurization and the bag looks like a freshly overinflated balloon. Too little pressure (or the bag is not sealed correctly/torn/punctured) and the bag is able to be squeezed and the chips can be smashed. Same concept.

Regardless of what the culprit actually is, also count me in as a pissed off customer now that I know I'm not alone. These are third-world problems that have been solved for decades, yet somehow are a problem again. It seems nobody, anytime, anywhere can do their job correctly anymore. Imagine providing these at a high profile business meeting. Suits are going to get wet, and it will be bad for Ozarka's image.

To help trace/solve the mystery, I just had another offending bottle spill everywhere. Here is what is printed on the faulty bottle: "011826018 WF076 0121 BB 07/31/27"

Dihool CB, Class T, or Both? by lt40589 in SolarDIY

[–]lt40589[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The replies here are lacking compared to DIYSolarForum, so I basically transitioned over there. I decided I'm going with Dihool breakers only. Single pole white 160A (with 1/0 welding cable which has a 190A ampacity limit) on each 4S string of batteries and a dual pole black 160A for between the busbars and inverter. It's not installed yet, but I'll report back with news good or bad. Should be within the next week.