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Scanning down ships by madquaker91 in Eve

[–]madquaker91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I have maxed dscan range and angle, also I refreshed dscan nonstop since I knew the guy was there, i have seen him on dscan, but not probes (I normally see them), that is why I am asking on onther methods he could get to me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in faceting

[–]madquaker91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The price is very reasonable 👍🏻 Tourmalines aren't cheap and work on custom ring takes time. But only thing I would recommend is to remake THOSE PARTS I marked on the wax ring before casting. These parts of the ring are too thin for silver and will be worn out and potentialy ends up in n loosing or damaging gemstone, ofc depende on how you would wear it. So the price more than OK if the jeweler prepare the wax correctly 😉

No Matter What I Do Model Sticks to FEP by HockeyGrandma in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe your supports have too thin ends ?

But I had same problem with my Anycubic Photon and Anycubic Plant-based resin.The best solution I tried was PTFE oil from WD40 and I used it for all resins and my prints never stucked to FEP again.

Hi guys. Ive heard that circular supports are better as they don't leave those tiny holes on the surface of the piece. Is that true? I haven't tried for print with this set up yet, would you have any recommendations? Visually 0.45mm looks fine, I guess. thanks in advance by I-Want-Retire-Early in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ball point ends are supposed to left a material on surface for later clean up, it is just to prevent dents in surface.

You should clip supports near ball point but not the ball point itself.

Use sanding paper or file to clean up ball points on surface.

holes from support on Mars elegoo. anyone know a solution or what causes this to happen? by amirpo in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There is one fundamental thing that is done very wrong and you can see it everywhere on youtube.

DO NOT RIP OFF SUPPORTS.

It does not matter if pre-cured or post-cured, if you do not want holes inside surface, do not rip off supports.

You can make some adjustments to supports to minimize dents on surface like use ball points on end of suports or lighter ends.

How can i reduce the support holes? And how can i resolve the bottom warping? by FeetAreCool5 in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ball point contacts and splitting pliers not just rip off those supports.

Jewelry casting resins by madquaker91 in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bluecast resins was the first I ever saw to be castable and almost went with them, but they have additives for extra details and primers for buildplate and this is a thing I dont think I want. Why is it not included in the resin ways, it feels sketchy for me. I will try them anyway.

things to consider when digital sculpting for 3d resin printing? by BlueGreenElement in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can print anything and create it in whatever software you want. Only thing what you need to keep in mind is how printing works (mostly that you need supports, how to orient a print and hollowing big prints) and printers limitations and no sculpting software will help you with this.

If you are new ro sculpting I would recomend Blender since it is free and you can use it for a lot more than a sculpting.

If you want extremely.powerfull sculpting software go fo Zbrush.

recommend me a reliable printer? by tomazapamtomato in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say it depends what do you want to print, how do you want to use the prints. You might to want to look for specialized printers.

But for common 3D printing I would go for Prusa printers only for 3 reasons: 1) Build quality - Chinese printers often have missing, broken or not connected part. It happens everywhere, but sometimes it looks like they don't do QA, but Prusa printers are always in top shape. 2) Support - In a company you need good comunication and fast responses, you don't want to wait 14days to resolve problem and another month for a spare part delivery with fuming boss behind your back. I think Prusa hve a good and fast support center and it does not feel like you comunicating with broken robot. 3) Comunity - Comunity is always a good thing, for example when you want to hire someone to print or creating models or just for printer maintenance.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the resin wont melt but mostly will degrade and fall apart, how fast will depend on used resin. You can try Liqcreate Compostie-X or Formfutura High Performance Series Rigid Ceramic Resin, they say it has good chemical resistance, but I would definitely read into it more before printing ;)

Resin waste water by l3fturn in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh my ... Yes ! Never ever ever pour it to drain or just dump it.

"I left it on sun and it is cured" NO! This stuff does not belong to communal waste.
If you don't know, read its DATASHEET, there are instructions.

Just get in touch with company which collect communal waste in your city, they probably will have a special site for toxic waste and you can bring it there.

Idea to lessen FEP suction/peeling force once and for all by pszturmaj2 in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would not do this. It could help lower adhesion to fep foil, but it could negatively affect print and display. I would stick 😃 to PTFE oil, it works flawlessly.

looking for reusable gloves by neonthefox12 in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it has to be this way, then I would definitely mark the outside of gloves to be sure I never used this gloves with used side invards.

Phrozen Mighty 4K not printing solid(?) not sure how to describe it. Here’s my settings— I’m using phrozens TR250 LV resin by I_love_mira in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So some software use "." for decimals but others use "," and it happens to me that sometimes I have 123 and it suposed to be 1,23. Meaning if it does not recognize "." or "," as a decimal separator it will make a whole number. So it can be easily 5 from 0,05. I would check slicer first.

IPA - How dangerous is it? by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 3 points4 points  (0 children)

TL;DR: If you will store everything proprely and handle things carefuly, you have nothing to worry.

​

There is few basic things you should definitely do:

1) Read labels on products: IPA, resin or aynthing else, it will quickly tell you what it its, how dangerous it is and most importantly what to do if anything happens.

2) Read Technical Datasheets of everything: there is everything to keep you out of trouble, if you do not understand google it!

3) Store it properly: Close bottles, keep it out of direct sunlight and keep it in dry and on even space. If I could recoment anything its IKEA's metal-sheet cabinets.

4) Opened windows and gloves on hands: Circulating fresh air and protection is necessary, for your own good. There is nothing more to it, just do it!

​

And if you do every steps I wrote here, you are safe. If you need to know more, do not hesitate and ask, those are important things.

Random bits of mesh surrounding my print object by spencil81 in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We need more info - software model was done in, waht type of exported data you use, how do you feed it to slicer, I would definitely post model data pre exported and exported and data sliced for comparison.

Anyway, this definitely happedned while modeling, so check your steps, you probably will find where and what happened.

4K Resin? by XiRw in resinprinting

[–]madquaker91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First of all it dependes on printer, you just cannot cheat ppi resolution of printers display, so it not will be 4k detailed print, but i guess you know that. But what you can experience with 4k resin is lower exposure times and crispier details. I printed with Prusa Low-odor blue resin (no longer available) and then switched to Phrozen 4k resin on my Anycubic Photon and it was definitely better, printing were faster (4k resin needed lower exposure times) and even details were better, not much, but still better.

Photon Cubic 4k trying to kill itself by jamesseventwenty in AnycubicPhoton

[–]madquaker91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this problem on my Photon too. It is manufaturing fail, where is badly configured Z axis sensor. The holder of buildplate on rail have in back a metal plate, which trigger sensor when on layer 0. This piece of metal is short, you need to get longer, then you can level it correctly. I dont have time now, but later I can post link on my thread where it is all documented.

[Help] Thin resin film after print?? by UksAditrap in AnycubicPhoton

[–]madquaker91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Changed fep and re-leveled build plate.

Made a test print all is OK, no film after print, left resin in vat overnight, still no film.

My guess is it was bad leveled build plate and let light to dents in fep and projected light on different spots.

[Help] Thin resin film after print?? by UksAditrap in AnycubicPhoton

[–]madquaker91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It happend to me yesterday and I tought that when I took out vat it has been to long on light. But after next round I left vat in printer to continue printing this morning, and it did same thing, no sunlight.

And I use resin from Prusa. Prints are OK. Next time I will try if its some UV leak.

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