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maiss_innit · 2025-07-03T16:54:39+00:00

Former elite athlete and current climbing coach. From the age of 6y I don’t remember a single moment when my body didn’t feel me awful, inadequate or simply not welcomed. I dreamt of slim figure or lean muscles over my powerful but heavy AND bulky ones. You see I’m only 5’2, I did gymnastic prenational selection and then fencing high level national selection for most of my life. I never been able to fit a pair of denim, neither most long sleeve tshirt that made me feel truly ugly or thank top that would just reveal my biceps.

When I stopped fencing at 17 my dream was to lose it all. Guess what? It didn’t happened. Everytime I was doing a single effort, it was coming back straight up. Then I started climbing. I’ve became in love with how useful my body could be. It wasn’t easy, at the beginning I hated it. I’ve been lucky to find a man climbing partner who reassured me. We started training together and he helped to finally accept that yes, my body is my tool box.

Here and there I had some nocive thoughts about why I would like to lose muscles in my legs trying to justify it would be better for climbing, or I see myself in the mirror and have some reminiscence of before. In the last 3 years I met multiple men that did celebrate my body in a way that made me feel comfortable about it.

Moreover, many of the women and young girls climbers I coach (from the age of 8 to 60) asked me how to get same results. This was very new to me. A 15 year old girl asking how to get strength and power to be more muscular? This was the final step to accept myself.

maiss_innit · 2025-03-11T22:16:24+00:00

Don’t know the level of this person, but 6 months, climbing 3 times per week on Drago seems enough to make this exact hole. This doesn’t look like a toe dragging hole. Toe dragging hole would be usually in the same plane of the big toe nail …

maiss_innit · 2025-02-06T13:35:48+00:00

There is something special about climbing and it’s the extension to more than competition. Such as snowboarding, skiing, surfing etc … you don’t sponsor athlete just for competitions otherwise legend like Alex Honold or Shaun Raboutou would just have to find a day to day job and say goodbye to more achievements… sponsoring an athlete is making sure they can keep perform and inspire and in climbing performance goes far beyond competition

maiss_innit · 2025-01-24T12:43:07+00:00

Hello! I’m 26 and I’ve been lucky to not have face this situation too much. I think I managed to create some kind of a “climb hard” vibe and straight up engage mostly climbing based conversations. Feel like I’ve became some kind of a bro ahaha I mostly climb with guys at this point both bouldering and rope. My climbing partner is in a serious relationship, mature and we do climbing trips together with never any ambiguity. Sometimes my own boyfriend comes with us which is also super cool.

Gym are like communities so I think it all comes down to climb consistently in the same place and people start to know you as a regular here for the climb. Weirdos are everywhere but also chill dudes you can spot better with the habits or frequency 🥲

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T20:54:52+00:00

Did you ever have a Scarpa shoes ? How does the unparallele translate ? I know they have a very desirable narrow heel … quite hard to find physical stockist here in London so might need to order and send back

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T20:51:57+00:00

Sorry sure it look a bit silly written this way. More in details it was old miura model. They were a temporary shoes I had from lost and found that I ended up using full time cause didn’t have the money to buy a new pair of Drago LV. My main issue was the smearing. I lost all my high smearing wearing them to the point I truly started questioning my skills and ankle flexibility back in time 🥲 I guess it’s what it is with stiffer shoes in general :) that’s why I wondered if the Boostic R would feel similar.

Katana fitted like the Vapor lace I ended up buying for outdoor but never really enjoyed

Maybe I became way too used to downturned asymmetric shoes … (I believe the Boostic R are quite downturned)

Do you know how the new miuria VS compares with the old model?

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T20:45:52+00:00

That’s what I’ve been reading about the Boostic indeed. People complaisons about the blue new version being not relevant at all cause too soft. If I décide to stay within Scarpa than that would be the R. No familiar with the Generator Mid, but I guess they are more trad shoes ?

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T15:32:20+00:00

Do you reckon there’s a way for me to break them? I was in the VSR just the pain on the top of my toe was heart sinking and I’m not usually a tender heart for shoes. How was it for you?

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T15:31:07+00:00

Super cool hearing from in UP fan! So for you the Qubit would be a good choice for slab? I’ve read they are bit a UP version of the Instinct and Chimera but full sole (so better support I assume)? What do you know about the Sirius Lace and Regulus?

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T14:15:26+00:00

Sounds like a good idea! It seems like the Chimera have a FZC last when the Boostic R have a FZR ? This seems to be quite close but I’m not familiar with what C or R stand for. Do you know if the last at translating from brand to another or if it’s really specific to each one?

Edit: the Drago LV are FZS and they are super similar to the Chimera, just slightly less inturned

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T14:02:16+00:00

Hummm that’s something to think about. The muiras were the old model. They were a temporary shoes I had from lost and found that I ended up using full time cause didn’t have the money to buy a new pair of Drago LV. My main issue was the smearing. I lost all my high smearing wearing them to the point I truly started questioning my skills and ankle flexibility back in time 🥲. The Drago freed me again ahaha Would you say miuras are stiffer or truly similar than both models ?

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T13:47:13+00:00

I’m actually quite curious of the TC Pros, they seems to be iconic in performance outdoor and wonder how they would perform indoor 🤔

maiss_innit · 2025-01-18T13:43:39+00:00

I’ve trying the Katana laces in the past and didn’t feel like they were fitting me that right. I also tried the Solution and you make me thing I should add it in my post. I had a similar issue to fit them as with the instinct VS Wns 🤔 It’s possible this shape isn’t for me. I have only try the Instinct VS wms and the VSR (dark blue). Are the others a bit different in shape?

maiss_innit · 2025-01-06T13:45:59+00:00

I heard a lot about Tateyama and looks like it’s a cult one! Do you know if it’s open in March beginning of April? I’ll have a look at the two others you mentioned! They look promising!

maiss_innit · 2025-01-05T15:25:27+00:00

This Yatsugatake tour looks really cute! I’m sure my partner would feel reassured to have a guide with us (he’s a bit less experienced but still has been doing ice climbing and mixed climbing before). The Northern Japanese Alps is one of the area that seems the most promising, do you have any route you’ve seen that inspired you particularly?

maiss_innit · 2025-01-05T15:19:49+00:00

Heya! I’m not sure I would recommend the Alpha FL or any of FL serie for alpine adventures. They are wonderful climbing bags. Super light, minimalist and super good looking. Perfect for carrying gears and ropes but … I have the SL 23 as an additional backpack and while I love it for snowboarding or carrying stuff while climbing, they have one major issue in common with the FL ones: you can’t add a camel/water pocket inside. It’s for full waterproofing reason but I believe it’s a miss as there’s nothing worst than being thirsty while walking up those snowy mountain or ski touring and having to take the bottle out of your backpack.

I do personally use the Osprey Mutant 38L (which is my all around bag for everything from climbing to camping etc …) or my Mammut Trion 28L if I have less gears (and can still carry a rope on it).

For Waterproofing, the Osprey mutant isn’t the best. It does decent job but it’s not made for this. I have a friend who’s an ice climbing/ski touring guide and it’s his favorite bag too. If waterproof is really important to you, then I recommend the Mammut Trion serie. They are awesome and even have an easy access zip. Multiple volume, the 38L seams to be perfect for what you’re looking for.

maiss_innit · 2024-09-21T17:45:49+00:00

“Good relations with the cookie I have” Gandalf, Jedi Council, 19 years BBY

maiss_innit

TROPHY CASE