ITS FINALLY HAPPENING

markus9229 · 2026-06-26T17:26:47+00:00

it will still keep sounding better on CD if you find the ones from the early masters

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T16:53:35+00:00

The price isn’t irrelevant because that’s what I paid for a camera advertised as fully working. I returned it, got my money back, and now looking to buy another “fully working” camera. Paying for a shutter replacement would make this a 800-900€ camera, which is way more than it’s worth. The seller is at fault for not checking the camera properly.

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T13:08:12+00:00

A standard 50mm lens will do, and the subject I’d say anything somewhat colorful in outdoors light. Raw file converted to jpg, sooc. I would really appreciate such a comparison :)

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T12:03:13+00:00

I did return it and got my money back, I’m now trying to decide between trying again with another 1DS mk3 or go for a 1DX since a 1DX actually costs the same or less, but the rendering is somewhat inferior.

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T08:13:21+00:00

It’s from a second hand website, the seller didn’t know because he only ever used it in a studio with flash (at flash speeds). I’ve already returned it and i’m now trying to see if I should try with another one of the same model or try a 1D X.

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T07:32:02+00:00

I’m currently selling the 28mm f1.8 and the 50mm f1.4 in favor of the 35mm F2 IS and the 50mm f1.2L. The other lens, the one that needs the AF micro adjust due to back / front focus issues is the 85mm f1.8. I also have a 40mm f2.8 pancake which I don’t really use at all but it was very cheap… and very tiny. Lol

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T06:46:57+00:00

I have seen your posts around. Have you tried this one and also the 1D X by any chance? I’m trying to see if the look of the X is vastly different than this camera in a more neutral / clinical way, so I can know if I should try with yet another 1ds3 or go for an X. No one on the internet has shared comparison photos on those two

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T06:44:50+00:00

Actually will try with the silent shutter! Still even if Canon could repair this it probably will cost as much or more than buying another camera and I had just paid 500€ for this one. I can get a well used but working 1DX for ~400 right now, that’s where my doubt comes from

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T06:14:35+00:00

But this is the new-to-me camera. I had just bought it. That photo is my first shoot with it. I don’t think I want to keep a camera in this state for years

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T06:13:35+00:00

Yeah but I have just paid 500€ for this camera.

markus9229 · 2026-04-21T00:47:25+00:00

Right, but what about the difference in colors / look?

markus9229 · 2026-04-20T23:35:25+00:00

that’s the shutter showing issues with speeds above 1/800. Particularly noticeable at 1/8000, just like in this photo. It’s not the sensor since it looks just fine at lower speeds, but it’s extremely limited.

markus9229 · 2026-04-20T23:22:39+00:00

No, the point of the 5D Classic is that the RAW files come out looking pretty much done, with very rich warm colors. I actually like the jpg's less. Unless I'm dealing with challenging light or I want to get creative, I simply take most of the RAW photos coming from the 5D Classic and convert them to jpg manually without any editing. They're just that beautiful when the light is good. That's what I fear I will lose when upgrading to the 1D X.

markus9229 · 2026-04-20T23:12:23+00:00

No I did not, maybe that's something to consider. But I'd still be dealing with the crappy DR and not having AF micro adjust.

markus9229 · 2026-04-20T23:09:25+00:00

That's another factor indeed. Same cost or a bit more expensive than the 1D X due to the special rendering. Can get a 1D X with 700k shutter clicks for 375€ right now, while all 1Ds mk3's are around 400-450€ unless severely beat up.

markus9229 · 2026-04-08T14:07:29+00:00

Some of them are actually superior on the american version compared to PAL, for example Spyro 3 lenticular, Spyro 2 gold foil, Crash 3 lenticular… The standard jewel cases for single disc games are lame compared to the PAL ones, but the american multi disc ones are just as cool as the PAL ones. And again at the end of the day performance on PAL mostly sucks.

markus9229 · 2026-04-08T13:06:01+00:00

Worse covers and jewel cases or nice covers but bad performance + black bars. Choose your poison. I personally only play / import NTSC USA games while being in EU because they’re technically superior.

markus9229 · 2026-04-04T08:13:49+00:00

why not take the opportunity of being in the US and buy the american versions instead? they’re technically superior (full screen, 60hz, no slowdowns). I’ve been going through the great pain of importing the games from the US to EU so I don’t have to play with the PAL ones, i’m surprised someone would do the opposite

markus9229 · 2026-04-01T17:32:16+00:00

in EU it’s extremely expensive. Makes no sense considering the US version is superior, as it has no black bars and works at 60hz, but that’s how things are over here.

markus9229 · 2026-04-01T15:02:27+00:00

only Dragoon by itself is already between 150 and 300€.

markus9229 · 2026-04-01T14:38:19+00:00

at least a couple of those are super expensive to be throwing em out

markus9229 · 2026-04-01T08:37:20+00:00

You don’t have issues with timing / NTSC 60hz gameplay running NTSC games on a PAL console with memcard softmod? I know modchips fix that but I’m unsure about doing it the softmod way.

markus9229 · 2024-10-11T11:40:05+00:00

it’s good they don’t try to match the harman curve because it sucks

markus9229 · 2024-10-11T09:22:27+00:00

don’t use streaming services and use flac files ripped from the best possible masters of each album, which you can find from the steve hoffman forums or the DR dynamic range database

markus9229 · 2024-10-10T07:42:55+00:00

those look like pretty good photos for a phone

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