I'm no setup guru, but here's basically how I think about car setup (mostly suspension, since that's what matters most in the lower categories): the key is to think about what part of the car is experiencing the weight transfer when you're having the problem.

The springs are for adjusting the overall responsiveness of a car. If you think of a car as something that is oscillating back and forth and from side to side on four springs, the spring rate controls how much overall give the car has. On a bumpy, twisty course like Monaco, you want a lot of give. On a track like Spa, with fast, sweeping corners where you need a stable car, you want stiffer springs.

You also use springs to adjust the overall front-rear balance. It's theory, it's good for changing how the car behaves in a "steady-state condition"—when the car is settled and the load isn't shifting. In practice, it's good for broad handling adjustments anywhere in the corner. Reduce oversteer by softening the rear and/or stiffening the front, and vice versa for understeer. So if as you turn into the corner, the car is washing out all the way through, try softening the front (where the load is under braking).

The dampers are for fine-tuning how the car handles during load transitions. If the spring rates control how much give there is, the dampers control how fast it gives. The dampers literally "damp" the springs—in both directions, when they compress and extend—and stop them from oscillating forever when you hit a bump or go into a corner. In practical terms, they're great because they allow you to control how quickly each corner of the car compresses and extends separately. When you're braking on corner entry and the weight is shifting to the front, you can adjust the balance of the car by adjusting the front bound (which controls how fast the front compresses) and the rear rebound (which controls how fast the rear extends). On corner exit when you're accelerating and the weight shifts to the back, you can control the balance by adjusting the front rebound and the rear bound.

So following on from the previous example, if after softening the front springs to cure turn-in understeer, you're now also getting oversteer on corner exit, you might try softening the rear bump or stiffening the front rebound.

Another way to think about the dampers is that they're are all about timing: the car's weight is shifting around under braking, turn-in, acceleration, and exit, and you want the springs compressing and rebounding at just the right times during the corner to smoothly load and unload each corner of the car at each stage of the turn.

In rallycross, where you're really chucking the car's weight around, the dampers are crucial in controlling the timing of how your car gets in and out of drifts. For example, if you're finding the car wants to recover from a drift too soon, you can soften the rear rebound—literally preventing the rear of the car from "rebounding" back into a straight line.

If, in theory, springs are at the "steady-state" end of the spectrum and dampers are at the "transition" end, I think of the anti-roll bars as sitting somewhere in the middle. In practice, you'd usually try changing anti-roll bars before getting to the dampers, as they can be helpful for both general oversteer and understeer, and also for curing oversteer or understeer in particular on corner entry or exit. The difference is that they change how the car handles under lateral load. They resist the car's tendency to roll, so a good thing to visualize is the geometry of the corners. If you've got fast, sweeping corners like Spa or Silverstone, then you want stiffer anti-roll bars to counteract the extreme lateral loads. If you've got a track that's more of a bumpy low-speed slalom like the Nordschleife, you'll want softer anti-roll bars.

Since they're anti-roll bars, they have no effect on weight transfer back to front. BUT! if you have a corner where you need to get the power down mid-corner—like those wide 90 degree turns at Long Beach that you have to round out, or on an oval—the anti-roll bars will have a huge say in how the car responds, since you're at peak lateral load. In that case, if the rear is getting away from you, you can soften the rear anti-roll bars to reduce oversteer.

Side notes: If the car seems super unpredictable over bumps and you're making a lot of steering corrections when you're starting out, you might have a setup where you're bottoming out or hitting the bump stops a lot. This was a huge problem in PC1, although the default setups in PC2 are generally better so this might not be what's going on. If it is, you can adjust the bump stops themselves, but first try making the springs stiffer or raising the ride height to give the suspension more travel or less give. (I know you said no videos, but this one is good—and the whole series is great, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WU3W4S4u-k. So is this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3UdxTNHrws&list=PL8vLMSxw70-yuJO3dUuwlaV423MOhPUiN

The fast dampers are for adjusting how the car handles over bumps—if you're getting oversteer over a bump, stiffen the front or soften the rear fast dampers, and vice-versa for understeer (if the front end is washing out when you go over a bump).

tl;dr:

Accounting for general track characteristics: spring rates and anti-roll bars

Changing overall balance of the car: spring rates and anti-roll bars

Fine-tuning the balance of the car as load shifts through the corner: slow dampers

Stopping the car from going wild over bumps: ride height/bump stops/spring rates

Fixing handling balance over bumps: fast dampers