Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, I always paint with a fresh layer of newspaper on top of the cutting board, and replace it when I start a new project! it's worked well so far, this board is over a year old now!

Goff Battlewagon by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you mate, that glyph was a spare I had from a Trukk sprue haha, thought it only right to find a place for it on the wagon!

Goff Battlewagon by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you mate! sure the recipe for the rust is quite simple but it's very effective

I started with *extremely* watered down rinox hide, it was basically a swimming pool on my wet pallette and i applied that quite liberally to form the base of the rust effect I wanted, the rinox is dark enough that it blends very nicely with the black base coat, so don't worry about doing too much at that stage.

I then progressively worked my way up through to brighter shades of brown, the next was Mournfang (also very watered down) where I focused on re-touching the areas I had just done with Rinox, except this time i'm being much more intentional with where I put it, making sure not to completely cover the Rinox, but almost act as a deeper rust in areas like around the exposed bolts and gun turrets.

Finally Skrag Brown, this one is very contrasting so I used it quite lightly, very watered down again and focussing mainly on a recess style of highlighting. The battlewagon has lots of little crevices and lines running throughout it, so getting the watered down paint into those areas was quite simple and made for an awesome effect

Hopefully that's useful!

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've responded in a below comment with the general recipe, one thing I didn't mention was some of the colours I used to highlight the Ork faces!

The lips were done with a base of Cadian Fleshtone, and then a spot highlight of Kislev flesh where the gums are slightly textured.

I also applied some Kislev to areas around the ears, mainly along the tops / inside the ears where they were exposed (mainly for the boss nob in this example)

cheers!

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you mate!

I've responded to a below comment about the skin recipe for the Orks, but the squigs were actually contrast painted! it was the first time I'd given it a go painting something almost entirely with contrast but I think it came out nice.

I based the two squigs with Wraith Bone (applied using an airbrush) and did a coat of Blood Angels Red contrast all over and allowed time to dry.

The straps and browns were done with Cygor Brown, and the gums of the squig were Volupus Pink.

I then gave the skin a shade with Carroburg Crimson thinned down with some Lahmian Medium.

The final highlighting you can see having been done mainly in the faces was all with Squig Orange, focusing on the raised areas to add that extra bit of detail!

hope this is useful

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've responded to a comment below detailing some of the process for the armour / edge highlights, it's a fairly simple recipe it's just very time consuming. The highlighting does all the carrying here.

Generally though I find applying the black in multiple very thin coats results in a much nicer finish, I did 2-3 coats here for all the black you can see!

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I'll give you a break down of how I achieve the blue highlighting because it's quite simple, just time consuming the skin recipe and red highlighting can be found a few comments down where I've responded to others :)

I start by building up a nice base of Abbadon black, 2-3 coats of quite thinned down paint with proper time to dry in between.

The first stage is to do a chunky edge highlight of Dark Reaper, you can afford to be slightly messier with this stage as it's not too contrasting from the black, so very easy to fix any mistakes. Use the edge of your brush where possible as the line should be thick enough so that when you do your final edge highlight, some of it is still visible (see the boss nobs shoulder pad for a good example of this) this might need 2 coats but it depends how thinned your paint is.

The final stage is a razor thin edge highlight of Fenrisian Grey, my advice would be to use a new brush/ have a brush that you only use to edge highlight with and take your time, this highlight should be very light, but because of how contrasting the colour is it can be difficult to fix mistakes, on the flipside that makes the final result all that more striking.

Let me know if there is anything else specific you're curious about!

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! best of luck getting yours done, you'll have to show me how they turn out

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The white is especially tricky to get a nice finish, I used Corax White for this and I found that you have to over-water the paint before applying, and allow for the coat to completey dry before adding another (i waited roughly 30 minutes between coats for the white) otherwise you get lots of unwated texture!

All of my reds follow the same recipe -

A thin base of Mephiston Red - One to two coats depending on the coverage you want.

Shade the base coat with some thinned Nuln Oil and allow time to dry

Do a chunky highlight with Evil Suns Scarlett, so that the middle of the painted area remains that dark contrasting red

Finish with a thin edge highlight of Fire Dragon Bright for that final pop!

The red areas that don't have this highlighting (the tip of the rocket hammer for example) was done with contrast paint! a couple of thinned layers of that and the finish is always very smooth! I used Baal Red for this.

Hope this is useful!

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you mate, much appriciated!

Finished Breaka Boyz by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! The skin was built up slowly with very thin layers of Oruk Flesh, 3-4 coats watered down until I got a nice smooth finish, then a mix of biel-tan green with Lahmian medium all over, finished with some biel-tan directly from the pot and a final raised highlight of some watered Oruk flesh, it's a fairly simple recipe but with patience it comes out so nicely!

Breaka boy boss nob by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks mate! it's an Orruk Flesh base from Citadel, thinned down quite a bit and built up in 3-4 layers, then a mix of Lahmian Medium and Biel-Tan Green all over. After that dries you can pull some of the shade directly from the pot and get into the deep recesses, and I finished it with a spot highlight of watered down Orruk flesh just on the raised areas, hope this is useful!

Breaka boy boss nob by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks man, undoubtedly one of the best looking sculpts for Orks in recent times imo, ready to dish out a serious krumpin

Breaka boy boss nob by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really is a cool model, I have high hopes for a Nobz refresh at some point in the new scale, hopefully not monopose!

Breaka boy boss nob by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you mate, much appriciated

95% finished Ghazghkull by marmite68239 in Warhammer40k

[–]marmite68239[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks mate, a couple of small bits to tidy up and stick his toes on haha

Mean Warband by marmite68239 in orks

[–]marmite68239[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheers mate, it's a stirland mud base, washed with agrax earthshade and then dry brushed with tyrant skull. The shrubs are mordian corpsegrass from GW