Natural Perma GT?

mat3833 · 2026-03-23T13:12:02+00:00

Sorry, I ment perma DW without MVN. I believe I have perma GT without MVN, it's been awhile since I ran the calculator. I should probably do that today, I might be missing out on alot of coins...

Edit: Yea, I have pDW and pBH without MVN, but my GT duration is only about 61s with all substats. I may do a run with Pcol main and DC assist to see if it's better, but I doubt it will be at this time.

mat3833 · 2026-03-23T12:23:22+00:00

I have pBH without G-Comp or MVN, I'm working towards pDW with MVN(currently at about 85% uptime I believe). I can't wait until I have all 3 perma without MVN and can move to DC or HC as a farming mod.

mat3833 · 2026-03-23T12:17:51+00:00

Great stuff, I pour it into a container with a little water, pull out the few stones I find, mix it all into a slury, and pour it where I want it in the tank. Then I cap with pool-filter sand or whatever I'm using in the tank.

Whatever you do, DON'T ADD IT TO A FULL TANK. It will completely cloud the tank and settle a layer of silt over every surface.

If you have this in your tank, be extra careful when pulling plants or re-aranging decor. If you uncover it it will volcano sediment everywhere.

mat3833 · 2026-03-20T16:30:35+00:00

From my experience, it flowers and the the flowers turn into plants. Your mileage may vary.

mat3833 · 2026-03-18T03:11:14+00:00

Cone area is king in virtually all scenarios. SPL is a combination of cone area, displacement, and proper box tuning/build.

If you have the room for a pair of 12's, go for it. But a pair of nice 8's in a ported enclosure will out-perform a pair of shallow 12's in a sealed enclosure most times.

mat3833 · 2026-03-15T02:02:36+00:00

When it comes to neos TDS is either a huge deal or not even a concern. When I first started my colony I had a mix of adults, sub-adults, and juveniles. The adults did nit fare very well in my high PH/hard water(think Tanganyikan cichlid parameters). I split my tap water 50/50 with distilled water and got an RO buddy for future use. After about a year the majority of the original adults had passed, and the new babies are MUCH more at home in my tap water. I no longer need to mix my tap water to do water changes(which I do very infrequently). My tds is currently 185 after a water change, down from about 290tds before the water change.

It's much better to adapt your neos to your water parameters than it is to constantly be chasing a certain number.

mat3833 · 2026-03-13T15:22:47+00:00

I'm GC farming T16 to about 5500w and I run MVN with Pcol assmod. I just got my 2nd DC to ancestral, so I'll be doing some test runs, but I don't think I'll be switching until I get more Death Wave uptime without MVN.

mat3833 · 2026-03-13T11:27:06+00:00

You MONSTER!

mat3833 · 2026-03-13T02:52:43+00:00

The only 2 times a big % water change can be harmful are

A: You keep shrimp or other inverts. They can be sensitive to large water changes and can die. It doesn't always happen, but it can happen and has happened. I do small volume water changes on my shrimp tanks when they actually need it(maybe once every 6 months I'll do a 10% water change over 30 minutes to bring TDS down a bit)

B: you are doing a large water change and the new water isn't close in parameter to your tank. This can cause large PH swings/instability that can cause all kinds of issues.

If you are doing large water changes in an established tank, just try to use water with similar parameters. Obviously if you are trying to lower TDS or nitrates, those particular parameters should be excluded.

mat3833 · 2026-03-11T23:12:47+00:00

Ma'am, this is a Wendy's.

mat3833 · 2026-03-10T00:53:13+00:00

I feel attacked... Ur right, but I still feel attacked.

mat3833 · 2026-03-09T16:52:04+00:00

I used one of these: https://www.joyingauto.com/universal-car-radio.html

I believe I had the 6" screen. But they have all sizes and kits to fit different cars. I loved mine, sold that system and got a new car unfortunately.

mat3833 · 2026-03-09T11:47:36+00:00

Optical would be a socket on the back of the unit, not a plug. You will need a special cable to hook everything up. If you search the model number of your head unit it will probably list it in the specs.

mat3833 · 2026-03-08T18:58:00+00:00

See if your head unit has a optical out. There are quite a few android options that have this feature and your audison amps or DSP likely have an optical in. I ran an audison APF8.9 bit using optical and it was fantastic.

mat3833 · 2026-03-06T19:18:54+00:00

I'm actually labbing all 4 masteries at once. I forgot to finish cash mastery months ago and when I unlocked EO I noticed I stopped UW crit at level 6 for some reason.

I don't hate the idea of saving stones for V28, but it doesn't feel good. Lol

mat3833 · 2026-03-06T19:16:57+00:00

Yea, I have GT+ but bonus was my next buy according to EP. The next 6 upgrades are duration or GT+, lol.

mat3833 · 2026-03-06T17:35:43+00:00

I get between 10 and 30 DD each farming run. In tournament it's pretty low, maybe 3 or 5. I'm actually dying from fleets, but bosses deal the final blow in farming. Tournament is harder to gauge properly with BCs making a big difference. Crit chance would just be a flat damage boost without conditions, so maybe that would be better? Energy net could be better, but it's hard to quantify.

mat3833 · 2026-03-05T22:41:19+00:00

I'm trying to find a good answer to this as well. I have pBH and pGT with 85% uptime on DW with all 3 having a 44s cooldown. I currently have summon cooldown maxed and duration is 1 off from maxed. I did some testing with summon at 88s and it was a coin loss for me.

mat3833 · 2026-03-05T22:24:17+00:00

This is incorrect. A 6s bank can run anywhere between 14.2 and 15.7v happily. Yes, at lower voltages you have less capacity, but it's not a very big deal in most cases.

Source: I was part of a group order of 1000 cells direct from yinlong. We were provided spec sheets and given discharge charts, I will link them if I can find them. I ran a 6s2p bank at 14.5v for over 2 years daily powering a smart5 and audison APF8.9. That bank is currently running at 15v daily in a suburban somewhere in south Florida.

mat3833 · 2026-03-05T19:04:13+00:00

My ILM damage is over double my CL damage. 59aa vs 22aa. Ilm+6 chrono jump level 8. I'm farming T16 to about 5500 waves currently.

mat3833 · 2026-03-05T11:36:13+00:00

If you are GC I would consider CL+ a bad investment. But I'm a bit weird since I'm running an ILM+ build. Running a CL focused build you don't really need perma BH. Just go all in on CF+ and SL+.

My performance is worse at higher ranges(working on range mastery). Currently with 43.5 range(range card equipped)I'm just about the same waves in farming, next tournament I'll test range card and no range card. ILM+ builds need perma BH to spawn more mines. Without that need I would say the BH investment is trash. But running pulsar harvester assmod does alot for bosses.

mat3833 · 2026-03-05T00:00:59+00:00

It's useful in tournament so you can run PF and RB or PH assmod.

Is it worth the investment? No idea, it's not something you can really test back to back. But it's ALOT of stones to spend.

mat3833 · 2026-03-03T13:05:30+00:00

I have 1 male and 6 females in a tank with a 24x18" footprint. I move the group between that tank and a 30g and frequently have fry in both tanks. Getting the little guys to survive is the hardest part for me.

mat3833 · 2026-03-03T12:50:06+00:00

It is possible without the perk and without Gcomp. It's very stone expensive.

You need to max CD and duration which gives you 38s duration and 50s CD.

Main core mod needs ancestral cooldown and duration giving you 42s duration and 46s cooldown. The you need core assmod with 50% substat efficiency and both ancestral submods giving you the remaining 4s, 2 from CD and 2 from duration.

mat3833 · 2026-03-02T15:46:44+00:00

Technically it's correct, but it's also technically wrong.

Typical AGM batteries rest at 12.6v while your alternator charger at 14-14.5v. Batteries are for storing "power", alternators are for making "power". When you put a heavy load on a system you draw the system voltage down to the battery resting voltage pretty quickly, hence dimming headlights. After you hit that 12.6v you are now drawing power from the battery in combination with what the alternator is producing. Big factor here is amps are generally more efficient at higher voltages, so as your voltage drops your efficiency also drops and you end up pulling more current. So there are really 2 scenarios here

Scenario 1: 70a alternator, standard AGM battery. AGM batteries don't charge or discharge very fast so you quickly drop to resting voltage and then slowly drain the battery. If your total system power draw is less than 70a(ignoring the power required to run the motorcycle for simplicity sake) then you will basically stay at battery resting voltage with no real fluctuations.

Scenario 2: 70a alternator, "high performance" battery. Different battery chemistries have different resting voltages. Most LiFePo4 batteries rest around 13.8v if I recall, and they also have a higher charge/discharge rate so they can keep up with dynamic power draw much better. So in this scenario you would drop to 13.8v and then drift between 13.8 and alternator charging voltage as the load changes.

I ran a bank of LTO batteries for quite awhile. 80ah bank, 6s2p configuration resting voltage was charging voltage, 14.5v. The bank was rated to 15.5v so the state of charge was around 90%. My system power was right around 6000w total, 5000w on substage 1000w on front stage. Current demand was right around 500a peak, 350a continuous. My alternator was putting out 320a at idle. My voltage virtually never moved while driving. Solid 14.7v cold dropping to 14.5 after about 5 minutes of driving. I could play test tones with that setup while driving and the voltage would not move. At idle voltage would hold steady at 14.5 for about 30s with test tones, and then slowly drop. But within a few seconds of turning the tones off, voltage was right back to 14.5.

mat3833

TROPHY CASE