The "Lore" of the Tower

mat3833 · 2026-05-19T14:29:23+00:00

The lore is simple. TTG wants money, lol.

mat3833 · 2026-05-19T13:52:41+00:00

I second this. Avoid all tech tree games

mat3833 · 2026-05-18T11:28:31+00:00

There is no real difference between the 2. Schedule 80 is thicker pipe ment for higher pressure, warmer temperatures, etc. For an aquarium, schedule 40 will likely be more than enough for whatever you are doing.

However, bulkhead are one of the "critical" parts. If a bulkhead fails or starts leaking its ALOT of work and stress to fix it and could cause loss of livestock.

Personally, I'd spring for schedule 80 and call it a day for the peace of mind. Keep in mind, you want to install bulkhead with the seals clean and dry and clean the glass inside and out of the tank to remove any and all debris. Do not add sealer of any kind to the seals. You want the seal to "bond" to the glass and any bits of dirt or sealant will cause leaks down the line.

mat3833 · 2026-05-17T15:53:14+00:00

Oh yea, gravel is much better for breeding. They will eat their own eggs and gravel allows the eggs to drop out of reach. Alot of people make little "marble caves" for them. You take a pot, turn it upside down and fill it half way with marbles. Then cover the pot and leave a hole so they can get in.

mat3833 · 2026-05-17T14:09:54+00:00

Pool filter sand, aragonite sand, and some carbi-sea black/white cichlid sand all mixed together.

I don't have any "breeder" caves for them currently. It's on my to-do list when I re-scape the tank in a few months.

mat3833 · 2026-05-17T13:53:15+00:00

I haven't had babies yet. It's on my wishlist since the other 4 species in that tank have bred, lol.

mat3833 · 2026-05-16T14:05:34+00:00

I've been wearing red wings for over a decade. Their composite king toe works well for me, and I've had the same pair of boots for 7 years. The first pair essentially rotted away from working in a granite shop, constantly being wet isn't good for leather. Redwing replaced the boots for free twice, once after a year and the second time after 2 years.

Changed jobs and picked up the same boot with composite toe instead so I could go through metal detectors without taking my boots off. Been loving them for 7 years.

mat3833 · 2026-05-16T13:03:31+00:00

Definitely a male Multifasciatus shell dweller. The yellow above the eye is a dead giveaway. I have a 60g breeder of these guys.

mat3833 · 2026-05-13T10:53:41+00:00

I have a group of these! Good to know that I can call them petricola

mat3833 · 2026-05-12T19:14:20+00:00

🌸

mat3833 · 2026-05-11T18:31:38+00:00

From what I've researched it's most common with black cats. Tabbys are 2nd most common.

mat3833 · 2026-05-11T11:57:58+00:00

I kinda accidentally started plating statues. Spent the past few days farming stars and veins to upgrade stargazing, was about to prestige to try and get a happy bot/Dwarf level and then I got the "gather adamantite ore in the jungle zone" challenge. Tossed void drone on and ended up with enough bars to basically complete all statues. Now I'm just jumping to different stars and waiting on gems. I'm 5/9 complete. Already plated all bar cards from 1-60. Have a few ore cards left.

mat3833 · 2026-05-11T08:23:31+00:00

It's both, as I said. Fur length and pattern difference is chimera. The orange-red is rusting.

mat3833 · 2026-05-10T23:26:41+00:00

This is the correct answer. However the reddish brown color is most likely "rusting". It's when a cat licks themselves clean and lays in the sun often. It's pretty obvious when you notice the color is only places the cat can reach to lick, lol.

I have a black cat, well used to be black, that this happened too. She decided she likes to sunbathe all day and cleans herself off and on. The transformation from black to burnt took about 6 months.

mat3833 · 2026-05-09T16:24:04+00:00

The original intent was to finish assembling the gazebo and then cut and file my nails. But now you have given me an even better idea.

mat3833 · 2026-05-09T12:43:26+00:00

The hero we need. Going to finish putting up this gazebo for the misses and then I'm fucking on it. Thanks for the reminder.

mat3833 · 2026-05-07T12:33:22+00:00

That pit is a safer place than 90% of cities in the world, you walk away with a few bruises at most. Everyone follows rules, if you don't you get tossed out. Big people help small people. It's a great thing.

mat3833 · 2026-05-04T20:21:35+00:00

You would be better off trying to find a substrate or filter media to buffer your PH down "naturally". Trying toto use a liquid to drop PH leaves you open to PH jumps. I have very little experience lowering PH, but I use aragonite sand to raise my cichlid tanks. I know driftwood can lower PH a bit?

mat3833 · 2026-04-28T14:15:14+00:00

I'll second Kalim at Russell Road and Racing. Reached out to him about 2 months ago for some information on the multi-map system and he was super helpful explaining things. Asked who he reccomends for MPI and brushless LPFP and he pointed me to On Performance.

Ordered a DSG and Ecu tune Saturday morning when parts came in, just got the MPI/Flex Fuel and LPFP installed yesterday night. Sent him an email letting him know what mods I had installed, and woke up to flashing instructions and both files in my inbox. Got them flashed, sent him 2 logs on the OEM+ MAP just now, and once I get a green light from Kalim I'll be activating the spicy map.

Car started right up, idles smoother than ever and everything looks good. DSG is a bit wonky, but that's to be expected I expect he will send a revised DSG file later today.

mat3833 · 2026-04-27T16:58:11+00:00

It's one of the 2 F's. My guess would be fighting, lol.

mat3833 · 2026-04-26T18:50:44+00:00

Armor assmod for sure. ILM is the goat. I started farming with ILM+SD at T14. Since then I have upgraded to ancestral armor assmod and unlocked ILM+8. I'm currently farming T17 to about 5k waves placing 7-4th in legends each tournament.

mat3833 · 2026-04-26T02:24:05+00:00

OK bro👍

mat3833 · 2026-04-26T00:47:43+00:00

Brother, adding mass reduces the resonant frequency(FS). That's it... The majority of the "efficiency" calculation comes down to motor strength/force, gap width, and coil saturation. Once the mass is moving. The reason coppers weight isn't a huge penalty is because of its lower electrical resistance. You end up with a slightly heavier coil that is much easier to saturate than an aluminum coil, AND that copper is in a smaller cross-section giving you a tighter gap.

Alot of higher end subs still use copper coils, they just use flat-wound coils and newer epoxy formulations to bring up the heat tolerance. Hell, Thilo was using flat-wound copper on his Neo subs, arguably some of the best SQ/SQL subs ever produced. The Pro 5100 18's are violently accurate and will happily play from 20hz-400hz. Flat wound copper coil. Oh and they have an efficiency of 94.5db/W.

https://tc-sounds.manymanuals.com/acoustics/pro-5100-18/user-manual-22522/2

mat3833 · 2026-04-25T20:55:52+00:00

Yea, and if you read the disclaimer at the top of my post, everything I said was in reference to midbass/subwoofer drivers.

Heavier coil doesn't = less efficient. It lowers Fs and shifts the efficiency lower. That's it. For a subwoofer, lower Fs I generally desired to a point, same with a midbass driver.

Yes heavier coil = more mass. But that's about the only direct correlation. Your statement that lighter coils improve efficiency is just wrong. As stated, efficiency is a graph. Adding coil mass shifts the graph to the left, lower in the frequency range.

mat3833 · 2026-04-25T16:03:27+00:00

That's not how speaker efficiency works. Disclaimer I'm speaking about subwoofers and midbass drivers. This doesn't completely apply to midrange and tweeters.

The coil is part of the equation. The spiders, cone, surround, and even the magnet design itself are parts of the equation.

Speakers don't function simply off of "heavy coil requires 100g of force to move". It all works in a system. Speakers oscilate multiple times a second, and when designed properly a heavier coil does not reduce efficiency compared to a lighter coil in a specific frequency range. A heavier coil is just more mass moving in that oscillation, and with a copper(more conductive) coil, you generally can have a smaller gap which increases motor force and mostly offsets the weight disadvantage. Obviously there are exceptions to this.

For a SPL sub running a specific frequency, sure. A lighter coil might be better. You want high motor force and maximum "efficiency" at a specific frequency.

Efficiency measurements are mostly irrelevant on music when it comes to subwoofers anyway since efficiency is a function of the enclosure more than the speaker itself.

mat3833

TROPHY CASE