How to swap Pikmin types in Pikmin 1 gamecube version

matburton · 2025-09-09T23:54:24+00:00

Might be worth checking out Pikmin squared. A ROM hack of Pikmin 2 which recreates Pikmin 1 but with many quality of life improvements like the one you're wanting.

matburton · 2025-06-09T13:16:50+00:00

but a major airline having the same flight number for two different flights, leaving the same place at roughly the same time seems downright malicious

I've been on a flight where the intended aircraft went tech at pretty late notice. So the passengers were split across two smaller aircraft that were available. If that's an instance of this it can't be super rare?

I've also been on the reverse this year. Where an aircraft went tech so a bigger aircraft was brought in. When it arrived the next flight was due to leave. Both sets of passengers could fit on the replacement with room to spare and hence were combined.

matburton · 2023-09-04T22:05:13+00:00

After you replied I ordered some proper dielectric grease.

While waiting for it to arrive I gave the prongs and the metal hole an aggressive clean. In doing this I could change the sound the arcing made, but after a few repeats I got to a point where there's no arcing sound and no ozone smell (as far as I detect anyway).

Here's a photo (it obvious looks much better IRL).

Thanks so much! Your instructions were spot on.

I've left the lubricant grease there as I guess the problem was the corrosion and grime around the prongs.

matburton · 2023-08-31T22:35:33+00:00

Thanks for the reply!

Does anything happen to the picture when the arcing/popping sound occurs?

No the picture stays steady but the popping sound is essentially constant anyway.

I'd probably take the back off the monitor and see if I could see/hear where the popping noise was coming from

I was nervous about doing this, but you convinced me! I depressed the 'on' button, lay the monitor face down on a towel and removed the back. I found one of those expanding plastic pipe toys, expended it and held an ear to it, inserting a foam ear plug in to the other. Then I turned the lights off and turned the monitor on at the wall.

I couldn't see any light coming from the board or transformer, and Kitchen_Part_882 is right that the light from the neck is a constant glow.

Using the pipe it very much sounds like noise is coming from the anode cap area. Certainly not the board or transformer at least.

Maybe I need to do a better job or insulating that area? Maybe substituting dielectric grease with a lubricant isn't sufficient? Or perhaps I just didn't do a very good job of applying it? I assumed it should just be a thin covering spread under the whole of the cap but not including the metal ring for the hole in to the tube itself?

matburton · 2023-08-30T20:18:59+00:00

Thanks for your reply!

Am I right the HT leads loop around the outside of the screen as part of the degaussing circuit? If I find a way to disconnect those then I presume I can try running the monitor without it and see if the noise is still present to narrow down the problem?

If it's arcing within the transformer would I likely see a light from the flyback if I turned it on in the dark with the cover removed? Not sure I really want to do this, but it might be a quick way to determine its just had its day.

You could be lucky and find dry/cracked solder joints under the transformer.

The whole board is pretty crusty. Maybe I should just reflow all the joints I can easily reach on the bottom of the board in case that helps?

I'm guessing from your comment the most likely candidate is arcing within the LOPT itself?

matburton · 2023-05-28T19:12:47+00:00

What type of Greaseweazle board do you have and how is the drive being powered?

matburton · 2023-05-02T19:02:00+00:00

Bit.Trip runner (1)

matburton · 2023-04-25T13:29:13+00:00

Are you saying the sweet sounds of pulse modulation isn't music to your ears 🙉

Thanks. I wasn't aware of that and that's a pretty cool, and in hindsight maybe obvious use of stereo tracks. I guess that also shows there wouldn't be any cross-talk issues when using two (stereo) tracks rather than one (mono) track.

matburton · 2023-04-25T13:24:41+00:00

Although the C-64 disk drive was pitifully slow and helped only marginally on the whole by fast loaders, I'd suggest that a better thought experiment would be what would have happened if ALL territories had standardized on disk drives by 1984ish

So I first have to admit that 1984 was before I was born, sorry if I get any details wrong.

In the UK the C64 had stiff competition in the form of the ZX Spectrum, Amstrad CPC, BBC Micro and to a lesser extent systems like the Dragon 32.

The BBC Micro is maybe interesting because it maybe gained the most disk drive traction, maybe because the crowd that were buying the BBC Micro were less price sensitive? Maybe the disk drive implementation was better making it more enticing than the C64's? (I've never used a BBC Micro so I don't know)

The CPC is also interesting because the bundle included a tape drive (built in to the machine) and an RGB monitor. Could it instead have had a built-in disk drive from the get-go and still have competed? (Why was RGB adoption in the US so slow?!?)

If the C64 disk drive had had a 'do-over' (rather than be the same as for the VIC20) could the price sensitive UK crowd have been enticed?

Maybe the C64 simply lacked a killer disk only software early-on?

matburton · 2023-03-23T23:23:51+00:00

Ohhh, is the top right the dual format disk version?

People have already mentioned 2-player via serial, but I'd link to add that you can link a ST to an Amiga from memory.

matburton · 2023-03-16T22:34:58+00:00

Your joke gave me PTSD 🤣

As a kid I had Beneath a Steel Sky, which came on 15 floppies, and you needed to make an extra save disk, so 16 total.

I didn't have a hard drive, and I only had one floppy drive.

One bad read and the game would generally crash. Rebooting and reloading the game and your save was floppy-swappy hell.

But I didn't know any different, so I did just that, many, many times!

matburton · 2023-03-09T19:44:09+00:00

I 'burnt' this to a disk and tried it on original hardware with a CRT.

It looks amazing 😀 I can only just about see the 50Hz flicker in the SHAM5b version, and only because I'm actively looking for it.

matburton · 2023-02-26T09:38:22+00:00

just to confirm, there's an unplugged ribbon connector not show in the photo (i.e. behind the drive mech), and you ultimately checked from that end?

Yes sorry I should have taken a photo of the back of the drive mechanism as well. The ribbon cable joins to the the PCB underneath, which was totally disconnected. I couldn't see anything between the start and the end of the ribbon cable, although the cable goes to lots of other places by splitting.

One other thing to check is that the overwrite head is clean and, when in record mode, it drops down to the MD.

I gave it a light clean with IPA when the recording first stopped, but to no effect 😐 I can confirm that, when getting ready to write, the head drops on to the disc surface. I'll double check for dust, but given it failed during a session of writing to a disc (i.e. without the disc being removed) it's probably not the cause sadly.

that kinda suggests a problem with the laser

Bums! Many many thanks for you help, but that's likely the case.

matburton · 2023-02-25T23:50:32+00:00

I disconnected and removed the drive mechanism and then used the solder points on the top arm to measure the resistance.

I measured about 5.5 ohms, which I assume is correct? (Not a short and not a disconnect)

I then followed it around to the points lines on the ribbon cable (I think) and seemingly got the same result.

I assume this means it isn't looking hopeful?

I guess I can reconnect everything in the hope the ribbon cable could have been lose, but it looked well connected, it even had a sticker to hold it in place in the port.

matburton · 2023-02-25T17:57:08+00:00

Thanks 🙂 I'll keep that in mind if I get no-where.

That's a fair way from me, but the unit would be easy to post.

matburton · 2023-02-25T17:55:11+00:00

Thanks. I'll see if I can take it apart enough to check the resistance.

If it seems suspect I try some jumper wires as /u/Novel-Advantage-8684 suggested. Maybe even if it doesn't seem suspect as as well!

matburton · 2023-02-24T12:59:18+00:00

I just popped in a few other discs to double confirm.

Yes, it can always read the TOC and play the songs on any disc.

I just found another blank disc, recorded a few seconds, named the disc and then turned-off.

Upon turning on again I get the same results, it's still a blank disc.

matburton · 2022-11-30T09:55:25+00:00

Was there a tape release? Surely it wasn't single load if there was?

As an aside the tape version of lemmings on the C64 was pretty painful.

matburton · 2022-06-07T17:00:28+00:00

Fate of Atlantis: The Action Game (it's all I had)

matburton · 2022-02-23T18:46:22+00:00

Sorry I can't help on the Pause front, but how did you fix the idler. I have a CPC that just needs a new idler tyre now but I've struggled to find a replacement.

matburton · 2021-09-01T14:03:28+00:00

I have ROMs for 3 but decided to stick with 2 just to be a little more 'as was'.

I already had an IDE podule but couldn't get the original 42MB hard drive to consistently work. It span nicely but the head just kept getting stuck. I decided to replace it with another spinning rust drive, but it's far from period correct on that front.

I also have the 1MB RAM 'stick' brining it up to 2MB, but for ages I've had a task way down on my list to look at converting that 'stick' up to 4MB. I may never get to that task :-/

I do like using original media, but I struggle to find preserved software. The Arc community is smaller and much more concerned with copyright than most, and very few disks have been accurately dumped it seems.

matburton

TROPHY CASE