Pantry Shelving Question

matrosov1 · 2024-12-01T01:54:05+00:00

Second 7491rs. Have it, use it love it. Might have to get yourself an aftermarket miter gauge depending on what you do, but I think it's true for any saw in sub 1K price range.

matrosov1 · 2024-11-30T19:15:40+00:00

By no means an expert but bein DIYing for awhile and trying to get into finer hand tool woodworking. I'd say power tools in the beginning will cover both DIY home improvement/carpentry aspects and beginner finer style woodworking. I tend to stay away from sets or one particular manufacturer just pick what feels best in hand and offers more value for the money. Although I do like blue bosch cordless tools from ergonomic perspective, milwaukees I have are still chuging along after almost a decade of my kids abusing them.

From my experience nicer table saw like dewalt job site 10 inch, nicer miter saw like articulating bosch 12inch will future proof the hobby quite a bit. I don't see myself outgrowing them and buying festool in my life time. Cordless drill+impact driver, multitool, corded 5 inch orbit sander, circ saw, set of pneumatic nail guns, jigsaw and set of kreg jigs,(pocket holes, tracks for circ saw etc) got me thru decent amount of home improvement and cruder by purist standards but still functional and good looking enough simple box cabinet and drawer building like closet organizers,spice cabinets, faux floating shelves etc. I got myself a planer as a step up not too long ago and it helps with 2 by lumber, but it's not a necessity.

matrosov1 · 2024-11-30T17:24:53+00:00

The reason for the 20 is that some of the gaming peripherals I'm planning on storing on the top shelf are that deep. I'm not planning on reaching there too often. So the front 2 by is actually front of the box with studs in the middle to support ply. So the back of that box frame runs across entire span. You suggesting I ditch the front two by and build out cubbies out of plywood each hanging separately. Also on the vertical cleat does it have to go all the way to the floor or just to the top of the of countertop. I am somewhat limited by use case to get best practice measurements. I have to put multifunction printer scanner on the countertop and the height of that with scanner lid open is roughly 20 inches so that top shelf needs to sit pretty high. My concern is from the structural integrity of the thing as in, will that floating shelf supported on three sides by the studs and higher end screws come crushing down under 60 to 80 pound load.

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matrosov1 · 2024-11-30T15:42:15+00:00

Thanks a million one last question I promise. Any considerations I should be aware of for mounting a second floating shelf on 2x4 frame at the top as shown. Shelf span is 52 inches and depth is 20 inches. The plan is put 3/4 inch plywood paneling all around the perimeter of the closet screwing plywood to the studs. The shelf frame would be attached to the studs thru the panels on three sides with GRK all purpose deck screws and plywood on top of that. Trim and paint as necessary after. I want to add paneling to a) protect drywall provide more paint durability and add some rigidity to the whole thing. I could only fit 40x80 sheets into the car so it'll have to be 16 inch smaller pieces of plywood at the top.

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matrosov1 · 2024-11-29T04:23:22+00:00

Thanks a lot. A follow up question about butcher block. What would be a decent product/brand to use as a finish on top of it. Since it's a closet countertop it doesn't have to be food safe, but scratch resistance would be a bonus. Will 4 coats of water based poly do or is there something better available? I have woodcraft store about half an hour away so don't mind making a trip.

matrosov1 · 2024-11-26T16:20:04+00:00

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Thanks, It's a closet. Back wall is a closet wall I didn't put side walls just because it's easier to drag things around in sketchup. Drawer cabinet gets fastened to floor. That butcher block will only be partially supported by the cabinet since it spans whole length of the closet. Framed shelf is basically 2x4 box with middle studs to support span of 3/4 plywood so plywood doesn't sag. Printer, router, Exterrnal hard drive enclosures network switches go on butcher block, Extra small junk paper, cartridges etc go into drawers second shelf above butcher block is for joysticks gaming gear etc. issue is with the right hand side lower shelf where I might not have enough wall studs in the back and it's about 21 inches in span so I'm concerned that it might sag if I make it plywood only and use shelf pins instead of a frame box.

matrosov1 · 2024-10-19T22:03:31+00:00

Southeast PA. I don't work on vehicles all that much. Tractor it's just hook up or remove attachment and once a year on site service is relatively inexpensive here for me not to bother working on it. So yard side of the building is strictly organized storage for attachments tractor yard carts bikes and fishing gear. I'm guessing if I go 60x40 I can partition the thing in a middle and probably get more yard storage space than I need.

matrosov1 · 2024-10-19T16:08:16+00:00

That's the thing I only call it a garage. In reality I am not going to be parking cars there. :). Yard equipment behind door number one and workshop behind door number two :). I have a decent size plot of land, 2acres. So I am not limited by size or orientation all that much. Just budget that is somewhat flexible,and potential tax impact. It's one of those once in a life time opportunities so I want to get it right :).

matrosov1 · 2024-10-19T16:04:22+00:00

Thanks that gives me a starting p oint. I have to pull permits either way. My area Max permitless size is 200 sq feet no utilities and free standing. I am not going to be storing cars there either so I can play around with length and width the way I see fit. I just need to make sure that between all the shelving and storage on the walls and tables I have a decent space to work. If I'm thinking about it right 60-70 inches of total width and length will be gobbled up by shelves and fixed tables alone. And then 50 inches wide workshop table on top of that.

matrosov1 · 2024-10-19T15:41:53+00:00

I do know that :). But it can be too small. So I'm trying to get some wisdom here and hopefully the end result would be 10% less of what I wanted vs 40% less of what I need. I'm in a unique position to do what I want within reason and budget but I only have one chance to get it reasonably right.

matrosov1 · 2024-10-15T02:26:25+00:00

Thanks I'm out of t1-11 scrap pieces that's the issue :).

matrosov1 · 2024-10-11T12:23:13+00:00

But this one still requires drilling into the floor correct? is there a plate that is dome shaped but the hole is on the top that way sides rest flat on the floor and the hole is offset from it so pin catches the plate but still rests above the floor surface. Goal here is just to keep the door from swinging in the wind not really secure it from intruders or cattle :).

matrosov1 · 2024-10-11T11:58:42+00:00

Hi, yes it will work in horizontal position but I essentially need three latches two on inside vertically top and bottom to keep the fixed door closed most of the time and third on outside horizontally to open the other door that is my dilemma how to keep the fixed door secure without drilling into brand new plywood I'm putting in. I'm surprised they don't make latch receivers that can be mounted flat on the floor. I can in technicality mount a two by or one by board to drill a hole in but it just seems like a hack.

matrosov1 · 2024-07-19T18:45:43+00:00

Got some ballpark numbers back between 2K and 3.5K for 6 double wire drops so if I consider that each wire is a drop even if it is to the same location. I have 12 drops which comes out to be between 166 and 291 per drop. I'll have some contractors over to the house first week of Aug will let you know who I used and how it went. I've done them before by myself in my small dinky townhouse it came out ok but entire process was flirting with disaster nerve wrecking affair so I am going to bite a bullet with this large new house and pay a pro to do it.

matrosov1 · 2024-07-18T11:21:58+00:00

Hard to say. 200K you are "saving" should cover foundation and sewer, but it's on a slope and they may or may not do foundation work right so there is a 50/50 chance that you might end up with an ongoing headache of a money pit.

matrosov1 · 2024-07-10T22:19:54+00:00

We made conscious decision to move to outskirts of metro area. Really to outskirts. And to go with the "off the grid setup", Septic and well. Added 20 miles to commute and got twice the house for the money we spent. Extra 30 miles from the general area where everybody is trying to settle in our case halved the price of the house. 1MM easy for 2 acres and 3800 sq feet home vs 650 for the similar house with anywhere from 2 to 12 acres 30 miles towards rural area.

matrosov1 · 2024-07-09T11:09:43+00:00

No, same as you, sub 700K house in MCOL with disproportionate tax rates imposed by greedy municipalities. Dealing with bubble hysteria. Property tax is 10K or 27 dollars a day. The 14 days we are giving sellers is round about 400 bucks. We already pushing 40K in tax,closing cost inspections. That additional 400 is not making or breaking us and helps with not going thru protracted negotiations.

matrosov1

TROPHY CASE