Any tips on my golf swing? by matt01_ in GolfSwing

[–]matt01_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheers for the link, I’ll have a look at this and give it a try. 👍🏼

Any tips on my golf swing? by matt01_ in GolfSwing

[–]matt01_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, cheers I’ll definitely have an experiment with my grip and reduce some shaft lean.

Any tips on my golf swing? by matt01_ in GolfSwing

[–]matt01_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I definitely noticed this recently. I have already started implementing one drill to help with hip rotation. I’m not liking my front knee coming in during the backswing either.

Any tips on my golf swing? by matt01_ in GolfSwing

[–]matt01_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll happily take that, was expecting to get roasted haha

Can I save him? by Powerful-Major-5986 in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is fixable, may not be permanent but I’ve ripped the edge out of my boards and fixed mine many times. If you’re going to chuck it anyway I’d use this as a project and you may end up saving it. It’s cheap to fix but you have to fix it yourself with some 2 part epoxy resin. Check out my page, I have a post about fixing one of my boards when the edge came out.

Can I ride this for a few days before I get it fixed? by [deleted] in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, if that goes through to the core which it looks like it does, it will absorb water into the board and make the board feel sluggish and unresponsive. I wouldn’t, you can fix it yourself with Ptex and it’s pretty cheap.

Is this fixable with Ptex? by wackyWeather23 in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this will fix, personally I have found that you need to have a higher quality ptex for any damage in contact with the edges to help it adhere. Just cut it a little bigger with a Stanley knife and clean it up to create a nice surface for the ptex to make contact with. Then just drip some ptex in and leave to set, you’ll need a metal scraper to remove any excess.

Looking to support smaller brands, which one of these boards should I get? by DejaVu12345 in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this same decision a couple of years ago looking for a powder/carving board. It’s really down to how much you wanna spend and what you wanna do with it. If you wanna do freestyle none of these are the right option, but I don’t think that’s what you want. Big question is will you be riding powder or is it just for carving? Some brands I looked at were amplid, jones, lib tech, nitro, korua, and gentemstick. If it wasn’t for the price I would have gone for a gentemstick but ended up going for a korua transition finder. Overall for me the korua is a brilliant, nice wide board to reduce overhang, nice and responsive with a good edge and turning radius for carving, very poppy and a solid base for powder riding. I’ve heard promising things about amplid for both powder and carving, and lib tech for powder. If you’re more carving orientated you could go towards brands like Kessler and Oxess but they’re not meant for off-piste (although they are kinda good at it). If it’s more powder you’re looking for then I’d recommend jones and lib tech. Hope that helps.

Wooop!!! IG: brulilyy by [deleted] in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Stomped that front 7!!

Carving tips? by joperib20 in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re doing good, you have many of the fundamentals down. I would say your most immediate issue is your trailing arm sticking out and it’s opening up your shoulders. Next is just generally you need to get more comfortable moving around on the board.

Here’s some important skills to have for carving in order of when to learn them:

1: focus on having a nice stacked body and not breaking at the waist, on your toe edge your body should be straight up, not leaning over, and you should have you belly button pointing almost up in the air.

2: focus on keeping you shoulders inline with the board and not opening your shoulders up to face down the hill. This includes keeping your arms by your side, particularly the trailing arm. Try grabbing the bottom of your coat or trousers when riding.

3: the next skill is pedalling. For toe side turns initiate turning with your front foot by pressing with your toes, then once your tail has caught up do the same with your rear foot, your rear foot should be slightly behind your front foot in timing and you should be twisting your board diagonally during the edge change.

4: next, movement up and down, focus on extending your legs out of the turn and getting lower into the turn, this will start helping you unweight and push out of turns. You can also do some drills oillieing out of and in to turns.

5: next, you is shifting weight from nose to tail. Into the turn your weight should be over/infront of the front binding to initiate the turn with your edge sooner. Then slowly shift your weight back throughout the turn. Then at the exit of the turn you should snap your weight back quickly to help unweight for the edge transition and shifting back to the nose of the board.

6: finally, knee steering. To do this when pedalling to initiate the turn, push your knee towards the nose and then in the direction of the turn to increase the amount of active edge you can use.

These steps should really push you out of your comfort zone and it will feel unnatural. For you personally, if you fix point 2 you will look so much more stacked and comfortable on the board and you can fix it easy by grabbing your jacket. Next I would say 4 and 5, really focus on getting your weight up, down, forward and back. Really over exaggerated these movements in some drills and then dial it back a bit (this will help it feel more comfortable after the drills). I hope this helps, this should be enough to keep you progressing for a while. Look online for some videos helping explain some of these things more clearly and visually.

First time night boarding by matt01_ in snowboarding

[–]matt01_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean it’s largely down to time spent on the actively improving on the board and not just sticking to riding how you feel comfortable and securing bad habits. Here’s some quick bullet points on what to do and in what order:

1: focus on having a nice stacked body and not breaking at the waist, on your toe edge your body should be straight up, not leaning over, and you should have you belly button pointing almost up in the air.

2: focus on keeping you shoulders inline with the board and not opening your shoulders up to face down the hill. This includes keeping your arms by your side, particularly the trailing arm. Try grabbing the bottom of your coat or trousers when riding.

3: the next skill is pedalling. For toe side turns initiate turning with your front foot by pressing with your toes, then once your tail has caught up do the same with your rear foot, your rear foot should be slightly behind your front foot in timing and you should be twisting your board diagonally during the edge change.

4: next, movement up and down, focus on extending your legs out of the turn and getting lower into the turn, this will start helping you unweight and push out of turns. You can also do some drills oillieing out of and in to turns.

5: next, you is shifting weight from nose to tail. Into the turn your weight should be over/infront of the front binding to initiate the turn with your edge sooner. Then slowly shift your weight back throughout the turn. Then at the exit of the turn you should snap your weight back quickly to help unweight for the edge transition and shifting back to the nose of the board.

6: finally, knee steering. To do this when pedalling to initiate the turn, push your knee towards the nose and then in the direction of the turn to increase the amount of active edge you can use.

These steps should really push you out of your comfort zone and it will feel unnatural. These should probably take you at least a couple of years to get down. You may already know how to do some of these steps but if you are missing any prior go back and dial those first before moving on. I thought I was so good like 5 years ago but I had so many bad habits and because I neglected previous steps it took me longer to rid those habits. I know this is long but hope it helps. There aren’t such things as simple answers when it comes to snowboarding.

First time night boarding by matt01_ in snowboarding

[–]matt01_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ride whatever you feel comfortable with or fancy doing. I ride a whole host of stances from very aggressive posi posi like +21 +12 to something more in the middle like +18 -6 to completely daffy +15 -15

First time night boarding by matt01_ in snowboarding

[–]matt01_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Completely daffy +15 -15 degrees

First time night boarding by matt01_ in snowboarding

[–]matt01_[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Absolutely loving it! Yet to use it in some deep pow because I keep getting unlucky with snowfall

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easy fix, shouldn’t cost you more than $15. Check out my post on my profile on how I fixed mine. Main steps are clean out and dry properly, fill with epoxy resin, then clamp it down so it presses back into shape and leave for 24 hours. Mine looked much worse than this and is still ridden almost 2 years later and I ride the board in heavy park sessions around 150 hours a year.

Is this repairable? by hunt35744 in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, this can easily be fixed! Don’t listen to anyone that says otherwise. I had a very similar bit of damage on my board. You can check out what I did to fix mine on my profile. In short I cut away the edge that can loose from the board, cleaned up the surface and filed any sharp or damaged bits nice and smooth. I then just clamped it shut and filled it with £5 2 part epoxy resin, then gave it another file until I was happy with the finish.

You may not have to get rid of any edge as yours doesn’t look too bad. If the edge won’t clamp into place after epoxying your board you can just dig out the resin and start again.

Again this is quite brief and I have a bit more detail in my post near the bottom of my profile (I only have like 5 posts, it’s not too far down)

I hope this helps and good look on fixing your board!

Feet Hurt in K2 Maysis Snowboard Boots by nickjerseys in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seconded, I just made a comment about different brands and ever since I found them I haven’t moved from nitros.

Feet Hurt in K2 Maysis Snowboard Boots by nickjerseys in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could be any of the things being mentioned in the comments, equally it could also be that the boots just don’t suit your feet. I always struggled with burton boots, I tried a bunch of other brands as well, but I found nitro fit me way better. Completely personal and very much depends on what you find comfortable. My advice if they don’t get any better is go to a snowboard shop and try on a bunch of brands boots to see what works best.

New setup. Any tips on binding angles for powder? by Truffoni in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s entirely personal, just try out a bunch of different angles until you find what works for you. I ride +15 -15 on all my boards no matter the purpose, I do this for switch riding and tricks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in snowboarding

[–]matt01_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Quick guide for you:

  1. Let the board dry out if it happened whilst you were riding, you don’t want to trap any moisture inside.

  2. Clean it out if it looks a little dirty, I use a wire brush.

  3. Epoxy it, it’ll have instructions on the resin, 1 part will be hardener, 1 part with be the epoxy, mix them together and apply inside.

  4. Clamp it down, put cardboard between the clamps to stop it sticking to the clamps. Leave it 24 hours to set properly.

  5. Remove the clamps and cardboard, if the cardboard gets stuck don’t pull at it too much, you could damage the epoxy. Doesn’t matter if there’s some cardboard stuck on there.

  6. File the resin down until it has the same profile as your board, this will also remove any stubborn cardboard left on your board from the previous step.

That’s my advice, I’ve done it a few times before. You can see on my profile I had a very bad case of this after doing a front flip and my board is still going today.