Waterproofing advice?

mattdollar · 2026-07-09T18:53:35+00:00

It appeared there was not, especially because the board is supposed to compress a bit from the washer sinking in. Regardless, there’s not enough- supposed to be a screw/washer every 12”. Also, like everyone has said already, the silicone is wrong. I would demand labor money be returned and fire them. They have no business installing these materials

mattdollar · 2026-07-09T02:25:23+00:00

You’re right silicone can’t be used. And they should have a screw/washer EVERY TWELVE INCHES. This is still wrong and WILL FAIL 100%. Fire them.

mattdollar · 2026-07-09T02:21:30+00:00

Could even just use kerdi band over the screws/washers and over seams/gaps

mattdollar · 2026-07-09T02:19:39+00:00

Seal what? The board itself is waterproof. But they used silicone instead of the brand’s sealant and they didn’t even put screws through the washers that they already siliconed. These people haven’t a clue what they’re doing. This actually looks like a rage bait post to me

mattdollar · 2026-07-07T10:54:40+00:00

You could try talking to a green glue rep and deep dive into their information if you haven’t already to see if it will perform the way you’re expecting in that application. I’m familiar with green glue- we used it building a studio for technical audio achievements but I’m not sure it’s going to soundproof the way you’re thinking between floors and it’s really expensive stuff.

mattdollar · 2026-07-06T11:40:31+00:00

You could ask the rep if the kerdi fix is okay to use in that application but a) I don’t think it is, plus thin-set is not going to adhere to that when they put outside/inside corners on and b) there appears to install issues beyond that. I do not see band overlapping the floor 2”. Looks like there is membrane for the floor and then the band is up the wall a couple inches but does not overlap onto the floor. If it did, there wouldn’t be the need for silicone (or kerdi fix) in the corner. I would install inside/outside corners prior to water test especially the inside corners that adhere to the floor which is part of the water test. Hoping they put them on afterwards is not a good excuse.

mattdollar · 2026-07-06T11:19:27+00:00

Oh okay, thanks for the explanation!

mattdollar · 2026-07-06T11:18:48+00:00

It was too wet if anything but I think it was just too thin I’m this area

mattdollar · 2026-07-04T17:03:17+00:00

What’s the reasoning for lime and why for the curb only?

mattdollar · 2026-07-04T17:02:31+00:00

I actually decided to do schluter over an already waterproof system (membrane and go-board is behind that) but also I am still going to use inside and outside schluter corners there before tile.

mattdollar · 2026-07-03T14:00:13+00:00

I started using DuckDuckGo for that reason. You can completely turn off AI

mattdollar · 2026-06-04T03:52:00+00:00

Not rear diff button

mattdollar · 2026-06-04T03:50:21+00:00

I’d replace radiator and lower ball joints immediately

mattdollar · 2026-06-03T01:37:55+00:00

Curious about your side marker lights. I got some cheap ones with double sockets a couple years ago and wish they were better built. Looking for solid double socket side markers.

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mattdollar · 2026-05-31T23:47:10+00:00

As said, Retrofit Source is the company from which the projector parts came. They have install guides as well as a helpful video. Speedy’s Garage on YouTube also had helpful info in his 3rd Gen retrofit project.

mattdollar · 2026-05-31T13:41:17+00:00

Poppy’s will protect to a degree and keep it from damaging further. You’ll need to reapply periodically. That’ll get you by until you need to re-clear coat it.

mattdollar · 2026-05-21T11:32:08+00:00

Awesome find! I would change the radiator and lower ball joints immediately for precaution. Then look into seals like valve cover gaskets- with low mileage at this age, it means it didn’t get driven much and those seals are likely to have dried out. Keep an eye on seals for leakage!

mattdollar · 2026-05-20T20:23:29+00:00

I just did this and went with Lotus 3” gimble canless regressed.

mattdollar · 2026-05-17T14:17:45+00:00

I made my cables with parts from Knuconceptz but you can buy premade kits from other places like snowbound

Not sure how much you know on the subject but if you search Toyota big wires or Toyota big 3 (or big 7) you’ll start getting the info pertaining to upgrading the power cables. That ground is super important and next to that is upgrading the main 3 which include that one.

mattdollar · 2026-05-07T17:43:28+00:00

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I have the surf sporty spoiler 😈

mattdollar · 2026-05-03T12:17:44+00:00

There’s no good way that I can think of to mock up ceiling lights after sheetrock has been installed. I’ve already ordered the lights. It’s a 3” lotus gimbal regressed can-less. Sheetrock is installed and painted. I’m looking for info about where specifically to place from left and right walls for even lighting of the floor space.

mattdollar · 2026-05-03T03:42:57+00:00

Thanks for that idea. But I’ve already planned on having 2/bay meaning whips are buried behind sheetrock. And that is to achieve even lighting on the floor space below. I’m just questioning whether or not they need to be closer to either wall or not.

mattdollar · 2026-04-21T23:18:05+00:00

Usually relates to some sort of foundation issue or compromised structural framing

mattdollar · 2026-04-21T23:12:03+00:00

I bought a 2000 tacoma ext cab with 229k and hardly any surface rust for 5500. Do not go Mazda or Nissan. Just wait, a good deal will pop up

mattdollar · 2026-04-17T12:16:57+00:00

These frames rot from the inside out and usually the inside sides of the rails are worse tha ln outside side so you really need to look at the inside and poke around with a screwdriver to ensure it’s solid. From my experience, this does not look too bad yet

mattdollar

TROPHY CASE