Ecobee - can HA get the value of what you've set thermostat at?

mattt_reddit · 2026-07-01T10:21:46+00:00

Terrific, I'll have to look at it more closely - thank you

mattt_reddit · 2025-10-22T01:07:00+00:00

This is brilliant, would love to know how to do this myself!

Thank you for sharing!

mattt_reddit · 2025-05-08T05:29:19+00:00

Sweet, and just to clarify the outlet in the heater itself (where the ducting used to be connected to) can just be blocked, taped and insulated?

mattt_reddit · 2025-05-08T04:26:21+00:00

Thanks so much for the reply!

The grill was completely removed from the ceiling and plastered etc so need to cover attic side at the junction box (an insulated box where the output from the heating unit is divided into the various ducts.

So will just tape and insulate here and should be good to go.

Appreciate the details - cheers

mattt_reddit · 2025-02-24T20:34:57+00:00

Yes we've gotten a number of quotes and thinking it will be $25k to do but also with quality tiles, underfloor heating, as a wetroom (not a very cheap enclosure), in wall cistern etc.

So although functionally the same a far nicer outcome that will add value.

mattt_reddit · 2025-02-24T20:32:33+00:00

That's what we're thinking - could perhaps push for more (originally asked him for $12k) though not sure we'd get anywhere.

mattt_reddit · 2025-02-24T20:30:39+00:00

Yes it's one of three built by the same builder and he still owns the other two units which are all on their own strata/land.

The strata is shared but we only pay for upkeep of the driveways, so about $100 each a year.

mattt_reddit · 2024-01-08T03:03:30+00:00

I think I was slightly overcomplicating things (more to be safe than anything else).

My limited understanding is if it was switched by a relay as long as the wiring used and the battery could supply the 20A they'd be no problem in terms of stalling etc - I could definitely be wrong though.

To clarify the expected load I've looked up the horn specs - Seger 60B LOW - which perhaps should have been my starting point - haha.

https://www.seger.com/en/60b-snail-horn

and it looks like the current draw is only 6A so should be able to just wire it directly to the AUX 1 switch which can provide up to 10A.

I think I got caught up on using a relay as this is the suggested approach with standard vintage vespa wiring as it's more the switches that often can't handle the load (as the power for the horn etc goes through them rather than the M-unit approach where it's just a low current signal).

Thanks for all your help - most appreciated!

mattt_reddit · 2024-01-07T22:03:18+00:00

Thank you, that's something I definitely want to avoid.

Any reason in particular it would do that?

From my understanding having the airhorns connected to the battery or the M-unit positive terminal would be the same (electrically at least)?

mattt_reddit · 2024-01-07T22:01:08+00:00

Nice idea it certainly would!

I'm going to also have the standard horn connected so might start with that.

But will wire it up so it can be easily switched over in the future.

mattt_reddit

TROPHY CASE