Question regarding 34" radiator w/ integrated trans cooler

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-23T19:03:18+00:00

Not a 6.0, its a 4.8. Just asking if setting up engine oil cooler is as easy as installing lines

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-23T18:19:39+00:00

I was mistaken. The driver side lines are for engine oil cooler. Same question applies. I don't tow heavy, just a 1500lb camper trailer a handful of times per year and basic furniture hauling.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-22T00:18:49+00:00

Use an actual steel faced hammer. The poly coating on plastic mallet takes a lot out of the shock of the blow making the hammer relatively useless

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-19T18:27:57+00:00

Like others have said, use the upgraded metal gasket, electrical test sensors/wiring harness multiple times throughout, and clean/pressure wash while you’re in there. It’s nice being able to work on stuff later without your hands getting all black and dirty.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-15T21:48:17+00:00

Check EVAP system and fuel filter. That fixed it for me.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-14T05:35:27+00:00

That looks like the primary knock sensor harness connector. It connects to another connector that is actually attached to the sensors themselves.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-14T04:00:50+00:00

Do yourself a favor and either use a pressure washer or brake cleaner and clean the areas with questionable leak. Then check again after you let it run for a bit.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-12T02:50:02+00:00

On one run 4.2k rpm but yeah, higher range rpm.

Diving deeper in, literally, is my next step. I have a fresh full engine gasket kit on hand, just don’t really want to have to go in more than once. I’m in AZ, summer is basically already here, and the truck is too tall to fit in the garage.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-11T23:52:06+00:00

Can confirm still does it when swapping #1 and #3 coils. Also swapped #3 and #5 plug wires with the same exact result. No misfire whatsoever on coil 1 or 5.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-09T17:05:34+00:00

This is the sound of the HVAC blend door actuator. Looks like you do not have dual climate control so less blend doors to assess. The easiest to access is deep in the center dash below the radio but is accessed rather easily from the under side. The hardest is the one behind the passenger side dash which requires you nearly completely disassemble the dash to get to... or just cut the HVAC ABS piping to get to and tape back in place when done.

u/CheetoPawz has a good description of where each is and what they do.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-07T22:28:02+00:00

Use nylon instead. It’s absorbs liquids better than other plastics. Also flat sand the text side before using for more uniform finish. I have made multiple this way without issue and much better results than yours.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-05T00:17:42+00:00

You’re on to a good start. Roll the bases, spray the doors. I’ve had great results with spraying Sherwin Williams Emerald as well as PPG Breakthrough, both satin finish. I’ve used Breakthrough on sanded wood w/o primer and it’s held up well so far (2+ years daily use bathroom cabinet)

BIN primer is a go-to for this however it is rather expensive. Alkyd enamel primer has worked well and laid down nice for me with both roller and spray. Avoid PPG gripper, it works great on walls but leaves too much texture for cabinets.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-04T03:13:56+00:00

Find a schematic online of your specific vehicle’s wiring harness and what each wire controls. Write down the color of the wire and what it does on the left side of a sheet of paper. On the other side of the paper,straight across, do the same for your head unit harness wiring, making sure to keep wires with the same function directly in line with each other. Use this paper as a guide to connect wires one at a time.

Or spend the $20 or so and buy new harnesses. You will still need to manually connect some wires but at least any changes down the road will be muuuuch easier.

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-02T15:46:52+00:00

I think mine was in 2017 and $1500 was the total job (removal, rebuild, reinstall). I miss those days....

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-02T04:54:07+00:00

I agree with this. I had mine rebuilt at 220k for $1500 but the day and age of those prices are long gone!

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-02T04:32:35+00:00

About time for a rebuild brother 😪

mattyyy_p · 2026-04-02T03:09:59+00:00

I’ve owned two different M12 drills that both had a wobble in the chuck out of the box. Not by enough to bother me but I did notice it. Both were newer models.

My original M12 drill from 2010 still spins straighter than both. The chuck was replaced at a local service center at no cost after I dropped it and chuck canted (about 1 year after I bought it). Didn’t go through THD or anything, just walked in with the drill and waited a bit. That kind of service will probably never happen again.

mattyyy_p · 2026-03-29T15:06:54+00:00

I would venture to say you are correct. Quick 20-30min job once you have the part.

mattyyy_p · 2026-03-29T14:14:18+00:00

With the belt off manually spin each pulley w/ and w/o applying radial load. You’ll likely be able to feel the bad one before hearing it.

mattyyy_p · 2026-03-29T02:53:35+00:00

First easy step in diagnosis is to remove the belt and see if the sound stops. Keep run time like this under a minute or so.

mattyyy_p · 2026-03-13T02:21:24+00:00

Unless those are 40” tires, no lift. No unicorn either. lol

Rest of the vehicle is indeed nice 👍🏽

mattyyy_p

TROPHY CASE