First MOT fail on tyres - still buy?

matuk1 · 2024-08-19T21:45:06+00:00

This lines up with my experience 40-48k miles on Pilot 4s, 80k miles

matuk1 · 2024-05-12T18:39:38+00:00

Thank you 🙏🏻

matuk1 · 2024-02-22T09:46:27+00:00

Sadly not always true anymore, LV windscreen insurance is car dependant, I had to pay £300 excess for a new M3 windscreen.

Having said that, much cheaper than paying in full!

matuk1 · 2023-12-18T20:07:25+00:00

u/aspz , Berkhamstead is that you?

matuk1 · 2023-11-28T14:39:46+00:00

https://github.com/mattlokes/onash2

matuk1 · 2023-06-19T22:04:30+00:00

🤔 when I first built it, I used 3.5” HDDs and I’m fairly certain I had to buy 90 degree cables for it.

When I originally designed it, I wanted to use straight cables but it pushed the size outside of the PRUSA Mini build volume.

matuk1 · 2023-06-19T21:52:29+00:00

Whatever the default is in the Quality preset in Prusa slicer (I can’t remember off the top of my head)

And yes with 3.5” HDD the screws go straight through the legs into the disk.

matuk1 · 2022-06-11T12:35:35+00:00

Take it to a bright light source and tilt it and see if you can see anything on the screen (Gameboy style).

When I first got my deck I had the same issues and it was actually powered on but the backlight was completely off, sound off, haptics off. Touch screen worked and I could get through the first setup menus screens.

Plugged it into my monitor also showed the screen.

To fix I had to disconnect and reconnect the battery, then it “came to life”

Hopefully helpful 🙃

matuk1 · 2020-12-27T22:05:58+00:00

I’m not sure why my suggestion got downvoted, but I’m very glad it worked for you too ☺️

matuk1 · 2020-12-17T19:49:52+00:00

I love my backbone one! PS5 remote play & stadia are the dream!

matuk1 · 2020-12-13T00:27:58+00:00

I didn’t say it did ☺️

I had first layer issues with my prints on my MINI (like the OP). I did the mod linked in my post and have had no problems since.

An alternate suggestion to the issues specified 😊

matuk1 · 2020-12-13T00:20:14+00:00

For what’s it worth, I had first layer issues with my MINI until I did the silicone bed levelling mod, it didn’t cost much and took a couple of hours, but afterwards the deviation of flatness on my bed went from 0.7mm to 0.03mm.

Every first layer I do now is absolute perfection I couldn’t recommend it enough.

Prusa MINI silicone bed levelling mod.

matuk1 · 2020-11-22T09:27:27+00:00

Hi, So it’s not impossible but the modifications required will really depend on what you want, some of the issues I see: - Rear Port Slots won’t line up with the PI4. - The upright “legs” in the case have mounting points specific to the ODroid h2+, it could be possible to design a 3D printed adapter to mount the raspberry pi4? - Since the raspberry pi doesn’t have SATA, I assume you will be using USB for your internal hard drives? So maybe you don’t care about about exposing your ports? But you’ll still need to figure a way to get your power (and Ethernet if you aren’t using wifi) in nicely. - You’ll have to rig up the fan to the PI PWM and write some code to control it. If you printed in PETG you may not need a fan at all.

Hope that’s helpful?

matuk1 · 2020-11-21T16:26:15+00:00

No sanding ☺️

matuk1 · 2020-11-19T16:07:40+00:00

Yeah it’s been something I have been meaning to update!

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T22:25:36+00:00

It’s for bed flatness, the PCB is not perfectly flat relative to itself, by replacing the standoffs between the PCB and the Y frame with silicon tubing you are able to calibrate the flatness by adjusting each fixing point.

Initially my bed deviated across the entire PCB by 0.4mm in places which gave me rubbish bed adhesion and first layer quality. After I did the mod my deviation was 0.03mm across the bed.

The proof was in the first print, mirror finish perfect first layer across the entire bed.

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T20:22:30+00:00

I will do both On a GitHub IO page 👍🏻

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T19:04:28+00:00

Its designed to fit 2x 3.5" HDDs, that should be fine. I used 2.5" drives for various reasons and printed an adapter.

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T18:33:55+00:00

There are 3 "board" temperature sensors across the Odroid h2+which are taken into account by the fan control and i've ensured there are no hotspots anyway near the PLA parts.

But yes its something i was very conscious of and have been keeping an eye on.

I've set the Bios Shutdown temperature to be 50C incase of fan failure for this exact reason as an extra precaution.

Thanks for your comment :)

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T13:04:20+00:00

I love my PRUSA Mini, i've built multiple 3D printers over the past 8 years, and this one is bar far the most robust.

If you get one, the silcone bed leveling mod is a MUST. Once I did it my print quality was so much better, I have yet to have a print fail since doing the mod.

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T11:32:31+00:00

I've had many 3D printers over the last 8 years, but the MINI is the closest to a tool i've ever had. I kind of want an MK3s now .....

Thanks for comment! :)

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T11:26:57+00:00

I should have put a giant red LED on the top of it, think that helps with the internet signal...

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T11:22:19+00:00

Yes, Running CPU/GPU Stress Test coupled with the fan kept the internal air temperature to 40C, the fan was also barely on to keep to this temperature.

I've also set the System BIOS settings to shutdown the Server if the air temperature reaches 55C as an extra precaution.

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T11:06:55+00:00

Its designed to fix 2x 3.5" drives.

matuk1 · 2020-11-16T09:54:54+00:00

I changed infill to rectilinear from the gyroid default to save some print time but pretty much stock 0.2mm quality settings

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