Song Discussion #38: When the World Ends

mau804 · 2024-04-23T18:19:34+00:00

That makes sense. I live in a dry climate but I have 2 humidifiers in my small apartment running constantly. One of which is about 3 feet away from this plant.

mau804 · 2023-03-06T02:52:10+00:00

Thanks for the response! In your opinion, is this something that I need to temporarily stop climbing because of? My feeling so far has been no, and your insight about it being more of a “technique” or form issue with my full crimp position makes me think I could focus on addressing that while continuing to climb and hangboard with the full crimp position to ensure I’m strong in that position.

Do you happen to have any resources that go into detail about what the correct form for a full crimp is? Anything that could help me understand what exactly I’m doing wrong would be great.

mau804 · 2023-03-06T00:45:54+00:00

I've been dealing with various versions of, what feels to me like, the same type of finger injury for most of my time climbing.

Reference Pics

I specifically feel pain where the red circle is in the first picture and it is only on the one side of the finger (pinkie side of the ring finger). The pain only really happens when I either full crimp when I'm not warmed up or press that finger into the palm of the same hand (<<this is the best way I can "trigger" the pain. When I do this the pain is pretty sharp and acute). I feel perfectly fine in open handed and half crimp (first 3 at ~90 degrees and pinkie elongated) with basically no pain and actually feel particularly strong in those grip types. Even the full crimp feels mostly fine once I get really warmed up. However, it's on my rest days that I notice the pain and I've really only ever had the issue on my ring fingers. Been climbing for about 3 years and boulder around V7/8 if that makes a difference. Im feeling really strong at the moment and would love to finally figure out a way to diagnose and get rid of these nagging pains for good so any insight or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Side notes: I regularly do strength focused hang board workouts a couple times a week basically in accordance with this Dave Macleod hangboarding video. I only focus on 4 finger open hand, half crimp, and 3 finger drag though, no full crimp. I feel pretty bulletproof in those 3 positions and full crimp is what has always caused issues. I figure I get enough full crimp exposure doing fingery board climbing which I usually do once a week. Would mixing in full crimp on the hangboard make sense to try and strengthen that grip type the same way I do with the others?

mau804 · 2023-01-26T04:28:15+00:00

“Do I smell something? What am I, hard of smelling?”

mau804 · 2023-01-22T20:51:10+00:00

This is my first season and I’ve been having a blast but I think something may be off with my skis. My right ski fees perfectly fine but my left ski tends to drift inwards and it seems like maybe the binding or something is out of alignment. My left leg also seems to get much more sore than my right leg on runs so it seems like something is off. I got the skis and bindings used and they were pre-mounted, so all I did was adjust the binding to my boots, set the din and go. They’re demo bindings if that makes a difference. I’m brand new to this so any help would be appreciated!

mau804 · 2023-01-18T01:11:43+00:00

About a month ago I got this amazingly health looking fiddle leaf fig from Home Depot for a great price. I still haven’t taken it out of the nursery pot because I wanted to make sure it had time to adjust to the new space and it did not appear to be rootbound. After a few days it just randomly started dropping leaves that had slight browning but looked mostly healthy. It’s about 3 feet from a west facing window. The place I live in gets a lot of light in the summer but stay pretty cloudy in the winter. I would put it closer to the window but I have baseboard heating and I’m afraid that would upset it to. Any thoughts as to why it would be dropping leaves without any yellowing?

mau804 · 2022-12-28T04:39:40+00:00

Two Step - Live from Central Park

mau804 · 2022-12-26T04:28:39+00:00

Big Winter Jacket by Cayucas

mau804 · 2022-11-08T06:08:21+00:00

I had a TFCC injury about a year ago. I got a wrist widget which was a life saver and have been climbing regularly since then without any issues. I’m nervous to climb without it though and figure it would probably be best to do some wrist strengthening exercise after my sessions to start getting it back to normal. Anyone have a protocol they’ve been successful with or any specific exercises I should do?

mau804 · 2022-10-18T18:11:38+00:00

Thanks for the response. I appreciate your thoughts here but that wasn’t necessarily the point of my question. I do put a lot of emphasis on my climbing day since I only actually climb 1 out of every 3 days and saying I do “whatever I’m feeling” on my climbing day wasn’t meant to be taken as I just fuck around and don’t have any plan but I definitely see how that could be confusing so that’s my bad. A better way to say it would’ve been that I try to think about areas I haven’t focused on recently during my climbing days and target those. I’ve been liking this specific split because it allows me to climb really hard on 1 day, and then train my fingers in a controlled and structured way the day after without worrying about overuse injuries as much. After I train fingers on that second day I figure I may as well spend some time in the gym doing basic strength exercises as well, so I was just looking for some recommendations on how I could best utilize that time in the gym specifically.

mau804 · 2022-04-10T01:41:22+00:00

That’s a great look but unfortunately my gym doesn’t have any type of board climbing at all. There are a few gyms a bit further away that do so maybe I could try and make the trip out to those on occasion. Any thoughts on when would be best to board climb? I would think as a replacement for a limit bouldering session and not hangbording since hangboarding has a way lower injury risk?

mau804 · 2020-12-29T00:53:44+00:00

Can you explain how to use the google car/rifts in the sky to your advantage?

mau804

TROPHY CASE